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No electrical power immediately after starter engaged

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Old May 18, 2016 | 08:38 AM
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Default No electrical power immediately after starter engaged

Jumped in my 2002 C5 Z06 with 55K miles this morning to head to work. Popped the trunk to put my backpack in it. Went to start it, the dash lit up, turned the key to start and right when the starter engaged (I don't believe it even turned 1 revolution) I heard a pop and no electrical at all. I didn't have time to look, but I assume it was a fusible link.

From my searches, it appears that there are 2 fusible links at the starter, but there is conflicting information regarding the correct sizes.

I doubt it is an alternator issue, as the engine didn't even turn over, but I may have a short in the starter (although there have been no indications and I only have 55K miles on the car). Do these links have a tendency to fatigue over time or do I definitely have an issue that needs to be addressed? I don't want to go through the trouble of replacing the links only to have them pop again.

At least this happened in my garage.
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Old May 18, 2016 | 12:01 PM
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I've never had a battery go absolutely dead in an instant before, but I will check the voltage when I get home.

What is the first line of defense (fuse or otherwise) for the Red 1 wire coming off the battery to the Power Distribution?
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Old May 18, 2016 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by txst
I've never had a battery go absolutely dead in an instant before, but I will check the voltage when I get home.

What is the first line of defense (fuse or otherwise) for the Red 1 wire coming off the battery to the Power Distribution?
You would be the SECOND person in a TWO week period that this happened to and the second person to deny that a battery can be perfectly great one second and a paperweight the next.

TRUST US... IT HAPPENS MORE THAN YOU THINK!

Put a meter directly on the battery terminals and read the results. If you have any reading at all,,, have someone CRANK the engine while you read the voltage. If it goes away, suspect the connections or the battery.

My immediate thoughts are: You have a loose or poorly connected battery terminal /cable on the battery.

IF,, you can move the battery cable/terminal by hand,, it TOO LOSE and most likely the cause of the issue. HIGH CURRENT low voltage connections MUST be clean and tight to function. PERIOD!
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Old May 18, 2016 | 12:27 PM
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I guess I have seen stranger things happen. The weird thing is that the key fob opened the trunk, all of the interior lights came on. I shut the trunk and opened the drivers side door to get in, put the key in and the dash lit up, then turned the key to start heard a pop and everything went completely dead.

I will check the battery connections and the voltage under load when I get home.
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Old May 18, 2016 | 01:23 PM
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I've had the opposite experience with batteries, everyone that died on me went from fine to nothing but a click.
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Old May 18, 2016 | 01:47 PM
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You can EASILY follow the PRIMARY battery cables to everyplace that they go.. Here what it looks like when they connect to the FUSE BOXES:





THIS is what the primary CHJASSIS GROUND LOOKS LIKE!



THIS is a pristine Clean Battery Cable Terminal. They are SUPPOSE to be TORQUED to 11 ft/lbs for proper connection to the battery:

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Old May 18, 2016 | 05:40 PM
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Just looked at the car - the positive battery cable came loose. Had 12.4V at the battery and 2V at the fuse box. Went to move the cable to check the condition and heard a click. I should have looked at it before posting.

It was strange that it happened sitting in my garage, but at least it didn't happen when my wife was out driving it.

Thanks for everyone's help.
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Old May 18, 2016 | 05:51 PM
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MAN,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I wonder how I KNEW you were find that exact problem???

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