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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #21  
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Relays 43 and 44 keep blowing (burning the 30pin on relay 44 and the 87 pin on relay 43)


Any suggestions on this???
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:18 PM
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The fan circuit is a high current circuit. The CONNECTIONS in any high current circuit MUST be tight!

Pull apart one of those old damaged relays and extract a good undamaged MALE PIN.

Use the male pin to conduct a PIN "PUSH/PULL TEST.

Insert the male pin into the female socket pins. When you insert and extract the pin, there should be very firm grip on the male pin.

If the male pin is SLOPPY and has a loose fit,,, THATS YOUR ISSUE! The loose / poor fit causes heating and high heat at that connection.

Bill
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:30 PM
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With my dual core radiator and ls2 water pump I never see over 215 in 120 degree desert heat in stop and go traffic. This is with the stock thermostat as well.

This is also with a 25% underdrive pulley.

The stock radiator is garbage on these cars, on top of that it catches all sorts of debris from the roadway. If it bugs you the way it bugged me swap out those two items and you'll never have to look at your temp gauge again.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Nasbluec5
With my dual core radiator and ls2 water pump I never see over 215 in 120 degree desert heat in stop and go traffic. This is with the stock thermostat as well.

This is also with a 25% underdrive pulley.

The stock radiator is garbage on these cars, on top of that it catches all sorts of debris from the roadway. If it bugs you the way it bugged me swap out those two items and you'll never have to look at your temp gauge again.
Interesting, I lived in Vegas for years and never had a problem.. Not sure why
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoken1
Interesting, I lived in Vegas for years and never had a problem.. Not sure why
My car spent it's entire life in Socal. There was enough dead pine needles and such in my stock radiator to start a small wildfire lol. Not to mention underdriving the waterpump doesn't help matters any. Ls2 pump moves more Gpm to compensate for the underdrive with less rotating mass to boot

Last edited by Nasbluec5; Jul 14, 2016 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 07:12 PM
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Got ya..
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 12:18 PM
  #27  
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And if they are a tight fit? Now what? Short in one of the fan wires, maybe??? They don't blow right away as if its a dead short... I drove it for like 7-8 days before the fans quit and I checked the relays to find them burnt...
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 01:48 PM
  #28  
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Sounds to me like you might have a bad motor that is eventually drawing too much juice and frying the relay... just needs the right conditions to do it...I would think a specific pin that is getting hot can give you a clue to where or why it's blowing...someone said there should be a diagram showing what pins do what or go where on the side of the relay...
Still could be a short that just didn't make contact for a few days and then BAM it made contact and blew your relay...
Others WAY smarter than me will help you find it
But, I like to take a shot at what I think it might be and every now and then even a blind squirrel finds a nut...
Really I enjoy learning and one of the best ways for me to remember is to give my opinion and then see if it was correct or what else I have to learn...
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 04:01 PM
  #29  
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if it's burned that bad the fuse box and connector underneath it are also likely damaged... I had an issue similar to yours a year or so ago, the ground to one of the relays was fried but was not visible on the top... as soon as I removed the fuse box it was pretty obvious... I replaced the fuse box, repinned a new connector, built a new ground wire, and it has been fine since


hard to see but if you look towards the top far left side the second pin down is fried



along with the connector


Last edited by StingrayRebel; Jul 15, 2016 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2016 | 05:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Clayton59
At this point removing the radiator is not an option... As I understand, this is a 2 person - 4 1/2 hour venture? Sound about right?
Maybe the first time. This can normally be done in 2 hours once you have the car lifted either on jack stands or on a lift. Search the DIY thread for instructions or do a web search it is common and a simple process. On reinstall remember to follow the procedures to burp your system. Again search the DIY section or google search, lots of good threads on this process as well.

Looks like I'm late to the party.

Last edited by Big_George_S; Jul 15, 2016 at 05:29 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 09:51 AM
  #31  
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How did you get the top off, does it just snap on some how? As I look at it it appears to have all on the wire attached from the bottom side and looks to be one piece. It's 2 pieces?
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 12:12 PM
  #32  
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yeah you have to remove the cover around the side and then there are 4 connectors on the bottom that you have to remove and then the fuse box will come out... the pic I posted above is of the bottom side of the box, here's what the bottom will look like with the connectors installed (ignore the red circle)

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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 03:49 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by neutron82
yeah you have to remove the cover around the side and then there are 4 connectors on the bottom that you have to remove and then the fuse box will come out... the pic I posted above is of the bottom side of the box, here's what the bottom will look like with the connectors installed (ignore the red circle)

You took every one of those wires OUT and put them BACK in the right spots when you put in the new fuse box?
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 04:43 PM
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yep... it's really not a bad job at all, I took pics and had a connector pinout in front of me that I triple checked before firing it back up
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 07:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by neutron82
yep... it's really not a bad job at all, I took pics and had a connector pinout in front of me that I triple checked before firing it back up
WOW dude you are the MAN awkward?

Last edited by 73Corvette; Jul 16, 2016 at 07:57 PM.
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