Originally Posted by NewRocketGirl

I have had my first Vette, a 2000 C5 for several weeks now and yesterday was the first time I got the ABS light. It happened shortly after making my first U-turn with the vehicle, there was a little gravel so I blamed the gravel. Turning off the vehicle and then turning on again cleared the problem.

Today, I made another U-turn, still getting the feel of the vehicle, I wanted to see how short the turning radius was, so I did the turn as tight as it could go, asphalt, not gravel. Right after that, the ABS light came on.

I am wondering if this is a somewhat normal response to a too-tight turn, that the extreme turn of the tires/wheels affects the sensors.

I have read other ABS posts on this form, and I do not see anyone call out a tight turning radius specifically as a trigger for the ABS light.

I am going to take the car for new tires (rear tires are the wrong size right now) and I need to get the tire pressure sensors re-calibrated, so I am hoping maybe a few of those tweaks will help mitigate the issue.

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by 73Corvette

Not sure what you mean by this? Reprogrammed? There is no calibration...they either work or don't.

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

Tight turning radius should NOT cause the ABS light to illuminate.

There are more than 2 dozen different conditions that can set the ABS light. You need to pull and post the codes that the car has to determine the actual cause.

Here is how to pull codes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4



OR



http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php


Post ALL the codes including the H or C or HC that follow each 5 character code. List the codes under the sensor they are associated with. ie 10 - PCM or 28 - TCS or 40 - BCM..... etc.

The parts stores that offer to look at your codes free can ONLY see the standardized emissions codes and NOT the vehicle specific codes, of which there are over 300 for the C5, so pull the codes with the built in C5 tool.

Someone here will help you understand the codes and tell you what may need to be done.

Originally Posted by NewRocketGirl

Maybe the word is reset? I was reading where there is some sort of magnetic reset that needs to be done, near the valve stems, to get the car to read the pressure. I may not be using the correct words. Match maybe? I think it is similar to what needs to be done to get a new FOB recognized by the car computer.

Originally Posted by NewRocketGirl

Pretty cool that I don't need to get some expensive code reader. Thank you!!!! I hope I captured them all, yeesh! I wonder if I should do a reset, drive it a few days, and revisit these codes. Is it possible they have just built up over time and need to be cleared?

10 PCM 2 CODES
10-PCM P1431H

28-TCS 1 CODE
28-TCS C1226H

40-BCM B2482 H
40-BCM B2592 H
40-BCM U1016 H

58-SDM NO CODES

60-IPC NO CODES

99-HVAC NO CODES

AO-LDCM B2282 H
AO-LDCM B2284 H
AO-LDCM B2276 H
AO-LDCM U1064 H
AO-LDCM U1016 H

A1-RDCM B2283 H
A1-RDCM B2285 H
A1-RDCM U1064 H
A1-RDCM U1016 H

A6-SCM NO CODES

Originally Posted by 73Corvette

Yes... clear them all... DRIVE the car for a while then... BEFORE you shut the car OFF .... PULL the codes again and see what is left and post them IF any

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7

Yes there may be many codes left in there that are no longer applicable. Clear them (video shows how to do that) and then drive the car for a bit and pull them BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pul codes with the engine running you need to use the RESET button to clear any messages displayed in the DIC and then pull the codes as you did before.

I suspect you may have missed codes under B0-RFA if you have no tire pressures showing.

The codes listed that is related to your ABS light being on is C1226H. That is the right front wheel speed sensor. A common issue on the C5's is that the connector that joins the wheel speed sensors to the car wiring have electrical contacts inside the connector that get deformed from age and vibration and fail to make electrical contact from time to time and cause the ABS light to be illuminated.

Here is what can be done. Jack the right front and remove the wheel. You will see an electrical wire coming from the hub to an electrical connector and wiring that goes off the car wiring harness. Examine the wires on both sides of the connector to see if there is any wire damage. If there is the wires can be repaired. Then disconnect the two halves of the electrical connector and examine the contact surfaces in each half of the plug for corrosion and for deformation of the contacts that might cause them to not make good electrical contact with the mating half of the connector. You can use a little sand paper to remove any corrosion that you may find. You can use a dental pick to carefully reshape the contacts if needed. When done reconnect the connector halves and clear any TCS codes that you have. The wheel speed sensors themselves almost never go bad, just the contact surfaces and/or wires get damaged.


We won't worry about the other codes until you clear them and drive the car and re-pull codes.