Help wiring in a selective ride switch
The remaining 4 wires are BRN, BRN/WHT, GRAY/WHT, RED/BLACK. BRN and RED/BLK meter <3ohms to ground with the car off, and TAN/WHT has 5 Volts to ground with the car on. GRAY/WHT appears to be floating.
Jumping 5V to either BRN or RED/BLK via 10-ohm resistor drops 5V to 0.1V, so it looks like 5V is only capable of sourcing 10mA of current.
Using 100ohm to either of above, but not gray/wht appears to clear the code, at least for now.
I want to wire in a new switch to hopefully get this feature working again, but from the above measurements it is not obvious to me how to do so. I've been looking around online for about an hour and haven't found much. I could buy a used switch for between $45 and $95, but I see at least three different varieties of this console piece on ebay - one with tour/sport, one with tour/sport/perf, and one with tour/sport with a "passenger airbag off" indicator.
Any schematic/wiring diagram/switch measurements would be greatly appreciated. Or if this is somehow a red herring and I'm being an idiot, that would also be good to know.
I was operating under the assumption the only thing wrong with the RTD system was the missing switch, since that's the only code that showed up. I'll skip the >4k investment, thanks. The annoying "service ride control" error went away when I connected the resistor as mentioned above. So that fix is good enough for me - I'll call that resolved.
Thanks for your help!
Last edited by xytrell; Jul 4, 2016 at 03:42 PM. Reason: added first sentence





The remaining 4 wires are BRN, BRN/WHT, GRAY/WHT, RED/BLACK. BRN and RED/BLK meter <3ohms to ground with the car off, and TAN/WHT has 5 Volts to ground with the car on. GRAY/WHT appears to be floating.
Jumping 5V to either BRN or RED/BLK via 10-ohm resistor drops 5V to 0.1V, so it looks like 5V is only capable of sourcing 10mA of current.
Using 100ohm to either of above, but not gray/wht appears to clear the code, at least for now.
I want to wire in a new switch to hopefully get this feature working again, but from the above measurements it is not obvious to me how to do so. I've been looking around online for about an hour and haven't found much. I could buy a used switch for between $45 and $95, but I see at least three different varieties of this console piece on ebay - one with tour/sport, one with tour/sport/perf, and one with tour/sport with a "passenger airbag off" indicator.
Any schematic/wiring diagram/switch measurements would be greatly appreciated. Or if this is somehow a red herring and I'm being an idiot, that would also be good to know.
xytrell
Welcome to the world of C5... I know your are excited. I was excited too when I got my 1998 C5 Coupe. It too had the Real Time Dampening F-45 Suspension. WOW! What can get better than that???
I can select what ever suspension performance level I want.


SAD..........

I soon found out that (IMHO) that it was a TOTAL waste of money. You have the BASE FE-1 springs and sway bars. The shocks do NOT change the dampening rates enough to even notice AND,,,,, IF,,,,,,, your car has any miles on it,,, those $900 each shocks are most likely SHOT! If it were me,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I would have the system removed by having someone with a GM TECH2 remove the RPO Code from the BCM and install some C6 ZO6 Shocks. They are a 100% bolt in IMPROVEMENT!
Just adding the C6 ZO6 shocks, will put a SMILE on your face. If you up-grade to Z51 sway bars and springs, you will thing you died and went to performance heaven!

If you still want to fool around with the F-45 stuff, We can dig and find the wire diagrams..
Bill




