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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 08:51 AM
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Default A/C Frustrations

I have been trying to diagnose my A/C acting up for the last week with no luck yet. First off my car is a 1998 with the electronic dual climate control unit. My problem is when I put the A/C on, I can't seem to control the speed. For example when I put it on high with the bars on the led screen all the way up, the fan does not respond. I have to keep going up and down about 5 times, in order to get the fan to go on. To get it to go low, I have to do the same thing, up and down with the controls to make it low. Also, the direction of the air is not corresponding with command that I give it. The codes from the DIC I got were the HVAC B0365H B0367H B0441H. So I read this forum and people were saying that it can be the resistor beside the blower motor that needs changing and that's why the fan speed is not changing. So I went ahead and changed that one out, and tried it out, but no change. The speed problem is still there. I even opened up the old resistor module and it looked good, no burnt traces. So next, I checked the fuses 18, 27, 49 for battery voltage, and they all read 12.4v, so they are ok. I also did the pull fuse 27 and waited a couple minutes and put it back in and it did fix the temp on the passenger side to cool like the drivers side because it was a bit warmer on passenger side, but the blower speed was still not working correctly. So now, with my codes and what I have read here, my next step would be to change both actuators. Not looking forward to this, but if it has to be done, then I have no choice. I agree that the actuators should have to do with the direction of flow, but what would that have to do with the blower motor speed. I physically felt the back of the motor with my hand and put the fan speed on high and could not feel the motor running. When, I pushed the fan control up and down about 5 times, then it did go on and I could then feel the motor turning. So, if the actuators doors were blocking flow and the motor on, then I would know for sure it was the actuators causing the no flow problems, but the blower motor was not running with it set on high. My head unit seems fine. I did the soldering of the 8 resistors a couple years ago for the dimming display and it has worked great. I also read on here that it can be the vacuum hoses in the wheel well are broken. So, big question is before I take the dash off, is there a possibility it can be the head unit causing the fan speed problems and direction of flow or is it most likely the actuators? I still don't get why changing the actuators would stop and start the blower from working. The blower should work regardless if the actuators are broken or not....I think lol. Please if anyone had the same problem, I would love to hear how you went about fixing it. Thanks soo much.

Rob
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 10:19 AM
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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
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Yes, if you are setting it manually, you should be able to control the fan speed with the up and down arrows. If it is on auto, you control nothing except the temp with the encoder dial. Fwiw, I never use manual... Never.

B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range

These three codes indicate to me there is an electronic issue with the right actuator and a broken gear in the left. Ymmv, this may not be true, but it's where I'd start.

You don't need to pull the dash to get to the actuators if you don't want. I'm not going to say it might not be easier, but I didn't pull mine and replaced both. There are a number of helpful threads with pics here on the forum for that.

The vacuum issue is easy to check also. Under the dash on the passengers side you can find the vacuum hose that feeds the system. With the car running see if it's sucking. If not, that needs fixed.
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
Yes, if you are setting it manually, you should be able to control the fan speed with the up and down arrows. If it is on auto, you control nothing except the temp with the encoder dial. Fwiw, I never use manual... Never.

B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range

These three codes indicate to me there is an electronic issue with the right actuator and a broken gear in the left. Ymmv, this may not be true, but it's where I'd start.

You don't need to pull the dash to get to the actuators if you don't want. I'm not going to say it might not be easier, but I didn't pull mine and replaced both. There are a number of helpful threads with pics here on the forum for that.

The vacuum issue is easy to check also. Under the dash on the passengers side you can find the vacuum hose that feeds the system. With the car running see if it's sucking. If not, that needs fixed.
Thank you for your advice. I think that I will change out the actuators, but might wait a couple months and enjoy my car for the summer and for the weather to cool down a bit. Hopefully it solves my issues.
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Old Jul 6, 2016 | 10:51 PM
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The actuators are the only part that will cost any appreciable money. Sadly they are a ridiculous amount ($100 ea). The rest is all nickel and dime stuff.

If it were me, I would not be spending the summer with the ac not working. jmho.
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
The actuators are the only part that will cost any appreciable money. Sadly they are a ridiculous amount ($100 ea). The rest is all nickel and dime stuff.

If it were me, I would not be spending the summer with the ac not working. jmho.
Yes your probably right, just ordered my actuators yesterday. Now I pulled the fuse 27 again yesterday to try and recalibrate the actuators and the all seemed fine except , I still could not control my fan speed and when I had it on AC, the temp was nice and cold, but when I turned the dial for heater 90*f , the temp did not heat up. It just stayed at room temp. Hopefully it is the actuators, cause if it's not that, then I'm almost positive it is the head unit which is big bucks. Does anyone know of someone that has them for sale at a descent price. I heard getting a 2001 and up are the better ones because they compensate for the actuators. Thanks

Rob
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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 02:59 PM
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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
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I seriously doubt the head unit is the issue. Head units are $100-$150, even refurbed. Check Ebay or any of the peep who recycle cars.
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Old Mar 13, 2023 | 07:34 PM
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has anyone found any solution to this? having the same problem with a dual climate 99 .. Blower motor replaced g202 ground checked. regulator for blower motor replaced. vacuum block and climate control head replaced with various different ones to rule out the possibility of a bad used one. going in circles here and was wondering if anyone has repaired this?
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Old Mar 15, 2023 | 05:53 PM
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try running it with a tech 2 hooked up
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