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Now I admit musicians wore their hair a lot longer the last time I put in a stereo, but all I wanna do is add a Jenson DUB? 12" 40oz. magnet to get the Bose to sound like its the 21st Century. I know C5 can be a pain to modify so I went to Crutchfield because the give you car specific installation instructions. After trying to get me to spend $500 on a monoblock, I got the message across that my pockets ain't deep. They said the best they could do was sell me Sound Ordnance M-1500 and a couple of bags of installation crap for $190 bucks. I'm afraid to by just anything. I get the feeling not everything works on our cars so I didn't by the Ebay $50 specials and the M-1500 doesn't get any cheaper. Can anybody recommend something cheaper that works. I have a convertible but I don't want the 16 year-old suspension to start rattling. This is just an addition what the car was born with is staying on . . . for now.
I would head over to the car audio section, you have much to learn. If you're really into car audio chances are you will never get within a sniff of being happy with stock Bose speakers. I just picked up a Rockford fosgate r600 5 channel amp to replace my crappy planet audio one.
There ARE some things you can do...FWIW
You can go to Lowes and get some Frost King and have a hay day sound deadening... the best for OUR vert was doing the REAR WHEEL WELLS and doubling some of the trunk...
Speaker UPGRADES for the fronts and back...
Then you can bring your OEM stereo up to speed by adding a Peripheral PXDP PXHGM4 Chevrolet Corvette 97-04 iPod Adapter
Then you can also add...a 30 Pin Bluetooth receiver from Best Buy
with it you can play your smart phone, bluetooth, Ipod....the stereo still looks OEM. This is all you see in our car IF you open the console... I just leave it in there and use the bluetooth, ... It sounds GREAT!
To add an amplifier, keeping the rest of the OEM system intact you would need an adapter to provide the required interface between the OEM system and the new external amp.
The PAC AOEM-VET1 will do that and provide you with line-level RCA audio outputs to connect the amp
To add an amplifier, keeping the rest of the OEM system intact you would need an adapter to provide the required interface between the OEM system and the new external amp.
The PAC AOEM-VET1 will do that and provide you with line-level RCA audio outputs to connect the amp
So in my cart at Amazon (I have a gift card there) I chose the PAC AOEM-VET-1 and a Boss Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit. Am I on the right track? Can I now simply chose, lets say, an $80 mono amp just so I can get my Bass speaker installed? Do I need an A/B class or a D class? Or does it matter. I'm not pushin the button until I get a couple of OK's
Hows this for a modest amp: BOSS AUDIO R1100M Riot 1100-Watt Monoblock, Class A/B 2 to 8 Ohm Stable Monoblock Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control? It's $50.
whats your budget? Are you building an enclosure? You want a class d amp for subwoofers, they run cooler because they're more energy efficient among other things. I have my class d mounted directly to the carpet panel in the middle of the tub in the rear.
Hows this for a modest amp: BOSS AUDIO R1100M Riot 1100-Watt Monoblock, Class A/B 2 to 8 Ohm Stable Monoblock Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control? It's $50.
Boss audio is garbage, and class A/B amps are more for driving speakers not subwoofers
Last edited by Nasbluec5; Jul 13, 2016 at 03:55 PM.
I saw a guy on the forum who mounted his on an enclosure that just fits under the middle storage compartment. I have the lumber, just need some batting or insulation for it. Its cool because you can latch the storage cover over it when not in use and it's hidden away.
whats your budget? Are you building an enclosure? You want a class d amp for subwoofers, they run cooler because they're more energy efficient among other things. I have my class d mounted directly to the carpet panel in the middle of the tub in the rear.
Yes, if you posted a picture you probably gave me the idea. I'll look for a class D.
Rockford 12", sealed enclosure, amp mounted on back carpet. Yes I do realize the carpet is bowing out. I need to adjust my rear trim but I haven't got around to it since I gutted and sound proofed the entire car.
Yes, that's on my list but for now I'm trying to keep cost down cause I really do want the old lady to stick around. What did you use to insulate? OK, I put the Fosgate in the cart, I'm done for now. One last question before I go, the installation kit recommended with the Fosgate is $32 instead of the $11. The difference is one is something like 8 gauge wire and the other is 4 . If what I already put in my cart works I'm sticking with it. It'll save $20.
You need 4 gauge. Nothing smaller. Running too small of a wire will cause it to melt or catch fire, not a good thing.
I used this butyl based 80 mil deadening I found on Amazon. I bought 70 sq ft for 120 bucks, and then I did the tunnel with 1 roll of frost King (heat insulation) from lowes. Cost like 20 bucks. It's a daunting task though, took me about 12 hrs or so start to finish. But I also shampooed and pressure washed all my interior carpets and let them sit outside to dry that night to dry.
I put a P900.4 Precision Power in my Impala and it works great in that car. For your sub a P1000.1 or a P600.2 bridged would both work fine.
I have an 4-channel RF amp in my Corvette and it works good too. It's been there for years so the model is long outdated and doesn't really matter.
The RF is class AB and about twice the size as the PP that is class D. Both are capable of about the same power levels driving the sub and speakers in each car.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Jul 13, 2016 at 09:36 PM.
Help I Need a New Amplifier
