I have a 2000 LS1 all stock.
Dropping it in my 99 coupe.
Currently have
CAI
Weiand LS6 intake
Kooks Long Tubes with matching Xpipe
Corsa Pace Car Mufflers.

Been told that 'if' I could find a low mileage Z06 cam, I can get away with not having to spend for springs, rockers, and push rods.

Remember
I'm Old, Retired, and "POOR"

Thanks

 

Yay

 

I used a LS6 cam from Summit for $295. The base circle is undercut about .050" compared to the LS1 so that needs to be compensated for. I used LS7 lifters for several reasons. They are about .040" taller and have a wider preload range. They are also about 10g lighter and every bit counts at higher RPM's. They were about $110 should be quieter.

I highly recommend changing the heads. I used 799 heads that I got used from ebay. They are the same casting as the 243 heads used on the LS6 but without the sodium valves (usually). I got them for $300, disassembled them and sent them to a head shop for resurfacing and valve job for $150. The deck of the heads was undercut .007" further helping the valve geometry. New bolts were about $25.

I used new LS6 springs for $55. Now my engine is a LS6 on a budget.

You will thank yourself if you make the upgrades now.

 

Looks like I'm going to be bugging you for more information.
Where the hell did you get Head Bolts for 'about $25.00' ????

 

I've been out of this for a while, so your comment "The base circle is undercut about .050" compared to the LS1 so that needs to be compensated for." went Right Over my head.

Stop Laughing.

 

The last 'Cam' I replaced with non-stock was in 1973. A Camaro at the time.

 

yeah, I was right in the middle of building a Mean Street Machine when the GREAT OIL EMBARGO Struck the USA. UGH.

 

Since they can't make the cam lobe much larger than the LS1 they they undercut the base circle. The base circle is the side opposite the lobe (the round side before lift).
I can provide better detail with pictures if I'm confusing you.

I told the manager at O'reilly's that I found the bolts on Amazon for $25 and asked them if they could match the price.

 

What is the casting number on the corner of the heads you have?

And what kind of performance are you looking for?

Do you have the pre 2002 intake?

 

This is a show about the LS1 to LS6 conversion.
I saw this after I did mine and at is almost the exact build.

 

Hi Art,

Some of the things to consider when doing the cam swap:

1. You can have a cam custom designed (Martin Smallwood did mine for my 408) for the same or less than the cost of an "off the shelf" grind. He worked with me to give me the performance characteristics that I wanted while taking into account all of the components in my engine and drivetrain.

2. Any change to the cam will ~require~ a re-tune of the computer. A re-tune will most likely benefit even the stock engine installation.

3. When changing the cam & lifters you really need to measure for the proper push rod length and purchase accordingly.

4. Springs and rockers can be changed with the engine assembled, so if your engine is indeed low mileage (I recall from one of your earlier posts that your "new" engine was an extremely low mileage pull-out) then if the cam is not extreme you might replace the springs and do the rocker arm trunnion bearings at a later date.

When I started modding my 1998 coupe the first things I did were to install the LS6 intake and a set of Kook's LT headers....made a HUUUUGE difference!

Another thing that you might consider doing before you install the LS6 intake is to mod the motor to the later LS6 style PCV setup. It really only requires an LS6 valley cover and re-routing some hoses.


I hope this helps,
KoreaJon

 

Here is an LS cam comparison done on a smaller 5.3L engine. The LS1, LS2, LS6, LS9, LS7 and a couple others are tested. Afterwards they installed 3 different Crane Cam Direct Fit bumpsticks with mild specs. This article has dyno results after each cam change.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ls-cam-test-comparison/

LS1 heads came with 66.67cc chambers... so if you purchase 243 or 799 head castings with smaller 64.45cc chambers you would increase static CR on your LS1 shortblock to about 10.5:1 with the .060" oem graphite head gaskets. The 243/799 castings also have slightly larger runners that flow better. For an additional increase in TQ/HP if you have pump 93 octane available in your area...while it's apart I would use thinner .040 head gasket to bump CR to ~11.0:1. Factory LS2's came with 10.9:1 static CR so you're still good with premium gas. The additional bump in static CR will help TQ more than HP which is always welcome in a 346 CID LS motor.

243 Castings VS. 799 Castings

My $0.02, consider Crane "Direct Fit" cam at $411.25 vs GM LS6 at $292.97 and go with .040 head gaskets for the most HP/Dollar. Still reliable with LS6 valve springs and Crane 210-218 cam in article...

Below is article from LS1Tech on these cams

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...-fit-cams.html

Cams at Summit

210-218 Cam

224-232 Cam

GM OEM LS6 Cam

I'm not saying Crane would be my first or last choice, merely referencing that the aftermarket "can" perform better with very similar specs (in the case of Crane 210-218) due to changes in lobe profile, slightly more intake duration and other incremental improvements in design.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

 

100% I used a .040" head gasket (the later metal one) as long as you are running higher auctane fuel. This is about an 11:1 compresion ratio. It will further help the valve geometry with stock 799 valves and stock length push rods.

The 243 head (LS6) had slightly longer valves to make up for the undercut cam LS6 cam.

I might think about some of those other cams mentioned that are slightly bigger than the LS6. I'm glad other people are chiming in.

 

Art

You already will require a PCM Tune, so, you might as well get a cam worth more HP. That ZO6 Cam really isn't all that much of an improvement. Bumping up the engine compression will also make a big difference. Look for an ZO6 intake manifold if you don't already have one.



Something else to consider,,, After you add all this cool go fast stuff, your injectors will most likely run out of duty cycle at WOT.

Finding some inexpensive injectors should be on your list of things to do...
Just remember, leave the OEM injectors in place until you are at the tuners ready to tune. The injector flow rates MUST be changed in the TUNE! You cant just install bigger injectors!

 

Art mentioned that he is on a budget. He hasn't really mentioned what that means ant what kind of performance he is expecting. He already has them headers.

I would think that going from the factory 345hp to about 435fwhp would be a nice step up for fairly cheep (and still reliable). This can be done with a stock $150. ECS mail order tune. I like the challenge of a budget build. At higher HP there may be some compromises.

Another thing: A lot of the bigger cams tend to like the slightly higher compression ratio.

 

You can buy used ford racing 30# all day long for $100. They would work with a H/C car with a little bit of head room.