C5 LS1 Engine Replacement
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Joined: Jan 2016
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From: Fort Myers Florida
You should be fine doing it that way, Also since you live in Florida maybe invest in an oil cooler for the new engine unless you are just planning on flipping it. This weather turns our oil into water, I plan on putting one in before next summer since this one was brutally hot and watching the oil pressure dip really low from over 220 degree oil temp is not a good thing in my eyes.
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Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Possible shaft seal leak on left side? Right side looks clean.
Possible shaft seal leak? No dripping but definite signs of seepage on left side. Torque tube is clean.
Hole in block behind starter above, broken wrist arm below.
Drivetrain out....or car off of drivetrain
. A fair amount of work but I do like how these cars come apart.Total time about 20 slow methodical hours. At least a third of that was spent looking up procedures, searching on line (here), and just staring at it. Thanks for all the input so far!!
Most difficult: carefully untangling the harness cables, fuse box cables, and TAC/ECM plugs and pulling them out. At least there was a coil of slack in the harness lead.
Easiest: Dropping the suspension components. Everything came apart like butter, ball joints, shocks, E Brake, unusual for a 12 yr old car.
You can see hole in block behind where starter was located. Appears not to be in cylinder wall but below, caused by broken wrist arm. You can see the broken wrist arm in the pick for opposing cylinder from starter location. Found water and gas in intake manifold.
Waiting for replacement engine to arrive. Will probably do some suspension refresh while its out.
Last edited by pgandy; Aug 19, 2016 at 01:53 AM.
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Good progress. 
As far as that obvious L/R axle seal leak (typical C5 issue btw, for which GM issued an FSB) just remember, if the oil can leak out, water can "leak" in, if it stood in standing water. IOW, close scrutiny of the diff fluid for signs of water intrusion, and also the trans of course. Both diff and trans also have vents, so that's another potential point of entry.
Btw, does "wrist arm" = connecting rod?
As far as that obvious L/R axle seal leak (typical C5 issue btw, for which GM issued an FSB) just remember, if the oil can leak out, water can "leak" in, if it stood in standing water. IOW, close scrutiny of the diff fluid for signs of water intrusion, and also the trans of course. Both diff and trans also have vents, so that's another potential point of entry.
Btw, does "wrist arm" = connecting rod?
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Oops, yes, connecting rod, or was anyway.
So far so good on transmission fluid. The differential almost looks like it has been leaking from the vent. If water got in it could be floating the fluid up to the vent, that would be a new symptom. The other leakage has been going on quite a while. I'll drain, inspect and replace. Will change seals also while accessible. I continue to find no sign of water anywhere except for the obvious engine issue.
So far so good on transmission fluid. The differential almost looks like it has been leaking from the vent. If water got in it could be floating the fluid up to the vent, that would be a new symptom. The other leakage has been going on quite a while. I'll drain, inspect and replace. Will change seals also while accessible. I continue to find no sign of water anywhere except for the obvious engine issue.
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From: Atlantic Beach FL.
Another member "ezstreet" is replacing his engine from the top. He tore the motor down first. I have seen others do it but I would rather work in wide open spaces. He has been tearing is engine down so he may be a good source of information.
At least you can see what is going on in your drive train. That may have saved you.
At least you can see what is going on in your drive train. That may have saved you.
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Yeah, right? I dreaded the suspension b/c of history with frozen fasteners, not knowing th amount of disassembly needed to free up the knuckle and ball joints, etc., but I needed to replace some bushing, tie rod ends, and drop links anyway so I went that route. That went well.
The difficulty with ECM/TAC/Harness cables just taking care and unwinding and feeding was much more difficult than other vehicles just b/c of the location. But I was very careful with them.
I have to disassemble parts of the engine but yes, easier to do out on the open floor as well as prep the replacement.
Having a lift though makes a huge difference in the approach. Things I did not do (or have to do) but were in the procedures:
Remove the hood
Remove the Radiator and fans
Remove the condenser or any other front end components
Only the alternator had to come off for the bottom drop out.
I would say there are fewer actual steps with the drive tunnel and rear end than removing all of those items.
But Rob02 I agree with your earlier comment, it would probably take a third of the time to do again.
The difficulty with ECM/TAC/Harness cables just taking care and unwinding and feeding was much more difficult than other vehicles just b/c of the location. But I was very careful with them.
I have to disassemble parts of the engine but yes, easier to do out on the open floor as well as prep the replacement.
Having a lift though makes a huge difference in the approach. Things I did not do (or have to do) but were in the procedures:
Remove the hood
Remove the Radiator and fans
Remove the condenser or any other front end components
Only the alternator had to come off for the bottom drop out.
I would say there are fewer actual steps with the drive tunnel and rear end than removing all of those items.
But Rob02 I agree with your earlier comment, it would probably take a third of the time to do again.
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From: Atlantic Beach FL.
My differential looked similar. I popped the seals out and put new ones in but was wondering if the fluid leakage was from the little breather cap on top.
I have been away for a week. Did you decide on an engine?
I have been away for a week. Did you decide on an engine?
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
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That should make things go smooth.
Mine had 125k miles so with zero miles on my engine I went through My rolling chassis and made it as new as possible. I wanted to remove as many of the 125k miles as possible on a reasonable budget. Mine looked like the trans had been replaced recently (less corrosion and had all the stickers on it). Working with the suspension out was more like bench work and less like real suspension work.
Mine had 125k miles so with zero miles on my engine I went through My rolling chassis and made it as new as possible. I wanted to remove as many of the 125k miles as possible on a reasonable budget. Mine looked like the trans had been replaced recently (less corrosion and had all the stickers on it). Working with the suspension out was more like bench work and less like real suspension work.
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Yes....I did have one coming from LKQ but they informed me on Monday that the engine did not pass their quality control so they refunded. I had already identified another one at SVT/AES Corvette parts just in case so I went with that one. another '04/LS1 from a C5 with nearly identical options including AT. 74,000 miles vs. 67,000 for the LKQ. They provided VIN off the engine and I found service records and mileage confirmation so that one is on its way. Its a drop out with accessories.
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From: Atlantic Beach FL.
I converted my LS1 to LS6 with cam and heads since ours already has the intake. I got a Z06 exhaust from a forum member. I went with a Z51 rear spring and c6 Z06 front spring, sway bars and shocks. Man, I cant wait to drive.
Your build looks like it is going okay for you. Having that service manual is everything. People are saying to only tighten the rear shock bolts to about 100 lb ft. The manual calls for them to be around 140 but they will probably snap at that spec.
Your build looks like it is going okay for you. Having that service manual is everything. People are saying to only tighten the rear shock bolts to about 100 lb ft. The manual calls for them to be around 140 but they will probably snap at that spec.
Last edited by Rob 02; Aug 19, 2016 at 04:39 PM.
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From: Boca Raton Florida
Thanks. Those DO NOT look like 140 ft.lb. bolts. The ones I removed couldn't have been tightened at more than 100. The shocks look original.
Sounds like a fun build. Now..where to take it? I hear they closed the speedway out on Pecan Park....but I think that was a dirt track anyway. A lot of new long winding beltways and crosstown parkways around Jacksonville now.
Sounds like a fun build. Now..where to take it? I hear they closed the speedway out on Pecan Park....but I think that was a dirt track anyway. A lot of new long winding beltways and crosstown parkways around Jacksonville now.
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From: Boca Raton Florida
I took out the axle shafts.....turns out both seals were leaking pretty good. I plan to change the seals. I see from the threads and write-ups that the side cover o-rings might be an issue too (item 5 on the GM parts diagram, p/n 89047953). Looks like an easy fix while everything is apart. There was so much accumulation that I couldn't tell if O-rings had been leaking. The only issue I've read is to be careful not to pinch the o-ring.
I think the CV axle assemblies are okay but just in case, is there a preferred brand? I've had pretty good success with the pricier manufacturers on Rock Auto, Cardon, etc., but not sure for a vette/V8.
I will also be replacing the rear outer tie rods....I only find a GM part number replacement. I find Moog, etc. for the front tie rods but no substitutes for the rear.
One other thing I noticed is not a lot of selection out there for replacing ball joints without replacing the control arm. I have a press and can remove/replace them but I was wondering if anyone has had success with that. Bear in mind I'm mainly sticking to restoration/renewal/OEM and not really upgrading the performance. Same goes for shocks....they look original.
Thanks.
I think the CV axle assemblies are okay but just in case, is there a preferred brand? I've had pretty good success with the pricier manufacturers on Rock Auto, Cardon, etc., but not sure for a vette/V8.
I will also be replacing the rear outer tie rods....I only find a GM part number replacement. I find Moog, etc. for the front tie rods but no substitutes for the rear.
One other thing I noticed is not a lot of selection out there for replacing ball joints without replacing the control arm. I have a press and can remove/replace them but I was wondering if anyone has had success with that. Bear in mind I'm mainly sticking to restoration/renewal/OEM and not really upgrading the performance. Same goes for shocks....they look original.
Thanks.
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
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Supposedly, the stock C5 had some of the best CV axles next to C6 Z06 1's. Many people recommend sending them off for rebuilding. The aftermarket can be real hit and miss.
I do like the GSP aftermarket shafts. They seemed more stock to me than the others. I ordered a pair off eBay for ~$120 and they got here quick.
I had several people advise against replacing ball joints so I tried it. The trouble people were having was getting them to go in without cracking the control arm. I tried some aftermarket ones and could not get them to go in. So I measured them and they were .014 larger than stock. Then I ordered some AC Delco 1's and they went right in. Hmmmm? This car uses the same ball joints on the front as the back.
I had trouble finding rear tie rods too but I found some Chinese ones on eBay that shipped Fed-Ex air. I cannot comment on them yet.
Here is a link for GM parts.
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/a...uspension-scat
I do like the GSP aftermarket shafts. They seemed more stock to me than the others. I ordered a pair off eBay for ~$120 and they got here quick.
I had several people advise against replacing ball joints so I tried it. The trouble people were having was getting them to go in without cracking the control arm. I tried some aftermarket ones and could not get them to go in. So I measured them and they were .014 larger than stock. Then I ordered some AC Delco 1's and they went right in. Hmmmm? This car uses the same ball joints on the front as the back.
I had trouble finding rear tie rods too but I found some Chinese ones on eBay that shipped Fed-Ex air. I cannot comment on them yet.
Here is a link for GM parts.
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/a...uspension-scat
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From: Atlantic Beach FL.
If your CV's aren't bad I would consider keeping them. They are pretty hardy. I would check the wheel bearings. The hubs aren't all that expensive and with all the loose joints in there they may have taken a beating.
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From: Atlantic Beach FL.
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
OEs are pretty stout.
Strongest axles? Drive Shaft Shop.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...ette/1997-2008
Strongest axles? Drive Shaft Shop.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...ette/1997-2008