Hello and thanks for taking time to read,
My 2002 C5 Conv. has had a no start issue 2x this past month. I'm wondering why? I think possibly each time prior to the no start I have had the top down so was wondering if the tonneau cover is not fully closed if this will cause a no start. I have had the no start after car was parked and top put back up. Although I doubt this is why thought I would mention it.
So after I got to work this morning I parked car and put top up. Went back down to car 45 min later since I had to run out and get gas and this was when I had the no start issue. Tried it 5x times, I would put key in wait for security light to go out then try to start and would get nothing, no cranking at all. Tried spraying a quick shot of wd40 into ignition hoping it would help but no same issue. Came back upstairs to google “C5 no start” and found same post as I did previously this month regarding the pellet on key and to clean with pencil eraser. So I did that, and went back down to the car to try and start also to pull codes. Well the car started 1st try! Soo That’s good, but then I shut down to pull codes and got the following:

40 BCM: B0502 H C, B0507 H C & B2482 H C
I know reason for these codes is because I have the DRL fuse out. That was all codes posted
Nothing regarding my no start issue this morning? So Im wondering what the hell?
Vette has 63k miles on it, I doubt it’s the starter because when it starts it sounds good/strong. If anyone has any clue as to why this might happen please let me know.

Thank you!!

 

Sounds like you have the WELL KNOWN Starter Solenoid issue BUT, like 8VETTE7 stated, you really need to pin it down before you start Easter egging in expensive parts.

When my solenoid was having issues, I made a 20"-25" metal re-bar wrapped in electrical tape and when the solenoid had issues, I just THUMPED the starter and it allowed a normal start.

I was scheduled to do a major HP/Tq infusion and clutch change out in a couple of months so, I just used the THUMP method to live with the issue until the tear down.

That being said, I have also seen the main connection on the starter solenoid LOOSE/CORREDED/BURNT/BROKEN and all of those can cause the same issue. Check the wiring at the terminal.

I have also seen a bad Theft Deterrent Relay cause the same issue.

Bill

 

Thank you both for your replies! They are much appreciated, but next I must ask, is the starter solenoid located on the starter motor? Can I replace the solenoid alone?

How can I thump or clunk the starter when I have this issue can it be done from above or will I need to some how get under the car?

Does it sound right that after a few minutes it would start up fine? with out any interaction other than cleaning the pellet on the key??

Currently at work so will try

 

sorry just thought of another question, should the solenoid be bad or on its way shouldn't I hear relays clicking when its trying to start but the starter motor not working? or would I only hear relays if the start is prevented by the security system?

I do remember not hearing anything the few times I turned the key to start the motor, all lights came on like normal, but there was no start, would the solenoid throw a code? because when I ran codes this morning there was none?!

Again THANK YOU!!

 

Thank you

Yes, when I get home I need to have a better look around and start diagnosing this, also I forgot to mention yes, the car is an auto. When I had the no start issue I tried moving the gear selector from park to neutral a few times to see if possibly it was the neutral safety s/w. I am good working a DVM, just have to see if my fluke still works!!

I find it so odd though, when it starts it sounds 100% sounds perfect doesn't stutter or anything. Also if I remember correctly from my prior years wouldn't a bad solenoid cause a dead battery? I thought the solenoid was attached to the starter that's how it used to be but thought that may have changed.

Will have to try the broom handle trick but first must find starter, so for now will just toss hammer and broom handle in trunk just in case.

Thanks again!!!

 

When you try to crank the engine, the solenoid gets power 12 VDC 60 AMPS from the TDR but the metal disk inside the solenoid that connects the contacts of the solenoid are either dirty OR not fully connected (stuck partially retracted). When you attempt to crank the engine some current flows through the solenoid and it gets warm. When it changes temp, sometimes it starts working. Sometimes the heat cases it to fail. Like after sitting for 30-40 min.

The solenoid alone cost between 40-60 dollars and you have to remove the starter to replace it.

Here is the circuit that you need to troubleshoot the issue:



There is an approved starter that has TWO long bolts vise a long bolt and a short bolt mounting bolt...

BC

 

Thanks for the replies, have had time to look at it but all seemed good, had no trouble for a week of driving the car 8 miles to work in the morning, then 8 miles home. BUT! Today I used it to run some errands this morning, went to home depot, parked spent 45 min inside, from there went to get lunch 5 min away, parked went I ate (20 min) came out started right up again and drove to Target 10 min ride but also notice temp much warmer outside around 93* shopped in target for say 30 min came out loaded car went to start and no good! Disconnected battery a few times to hopefully reset or remove power from solenoid on 3rd try it started up drove home and parked it! I was also using other newer key so that rules the key out?! More than likely I think its solenoid, although when it catches there is no hesitation. So that makes me wonder? Have no problem replacing starter/solenoid it is 14+ yrs old. Have feeling once it heats up and from all the bumps on jersey roads, solenoid sticks?! My guess is its only going to get worse!

Should anyone know any shop in central NJ that can replace starter and solenoid also that they trust please let me know, I am in the woodbridge/Edison area.

Thanks!

 

East Coast Supercharging in Cream Ridge just South of you.

 

When I recently had a starter issue I bought this one on Amazon and it's worked out nicely for $116.00. Just trying to help you out.

Bosch SR8581N New Starter

 

Same for me. The nice thing is that this is a NEW starter, not rebuilt. Bosch makes good quality parts. No brainer.

 

Does that starter come with the longer bolts?

 

Yes, it does. Like ZigZag says, Bosch SR8581N is the correct one to install.

Caution: the "glamour shot" photo Amazon uses for this starter is a generic "file photo", which incorrectly shows the starter to have one "long" mounting ear and one "short" mounting ear. In fact, both mounting ears are of the "long" variety. Even though the photo Amazon uses is wrong, if you order it, it is the correct starter. The PART NUMBER is what matters.

Rock Auto's photo is correct:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=513&jsn=513

 

OK, have ordered starter, but it bothers me to replace a part that might not be failing?!

Since I had the no start issue last weekend, I have parked the car in driveway, but each time I have been out have tried to start with no issues!? Took a drive the other night for about 45 min since I knew I wasn't going to stop the car just went for a drive down parkway with top down, great weather recently and came home, parked back in d/w shut down and attempted to restart and it did no problem. Have been trying to start each time I go outside again no issues? Does this sound normal to anyone? Of the three times I have had the no start issue in the past 2 months they have been roughly 1 week apart, also each time all I did was basically wait some time and was able to restart? When it does restart all sounds fine, no weak starting or hesitation.

Last time I had the no start I moved gear from Park to neutral and still no start, although after waiting about 15 min fired up fine?!

Most important...have checked but not when I had no start issue, am getting 12v at starter when key is turned, drove up on ramps and had wife turn key a few times. All checks out!