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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 09:28 AM
  #21  
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esfontes
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From: Newburyport MA
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Originally Posted by esfontes
yes
I continue to research this problem and again talked to Richard at Compliance, he suggested hooking a trickle charger to my battery, pull key gone with charger on comes back with charger off so I check my NEW 78 battery and find it has a reserve of 110 minutes not the recommended 120, ok so I change to the recommended battery. First attempt with new battery, of course I know its not at full charge yet, Pull Key then Service Lock, drive for a bit and get pull key after the car sits nothing after driving and restarting, hopefully once I get a full charge the Pull Key will go away, to me the BCM is not getting the proper voltage anyone have any suggestions?
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 11:53 AM
  #22  
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esfontes
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From: Newburyport MA
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I would check the condition of the battery connections at the starter solenoid and at the two fuse boxes. They need to be clean bright and tight and with respect to the one at the solenoid, none of the wires burned. No info in your profile or posts about any mods the car may have. Not uncommon for wiring at the solenoid to have charred or loose wiring/connections on car with headers due to the heat they produce.
My car is stock without headers and all connections are tight and clean
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 03:00 PM
  #23  
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From: las vegas nv.
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Like Richard said--its your BCM--The brown wire mod has fixed all--pull key messages-- that i have read about--if lmc5 is working and all wires are placed right--only other thing has to be the BCM is way out of sync with lmc5-
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Old Oct 29, 2016 | 03:16 PM
  #24  
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esfontes
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From: Newburyport MA
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Originally Posted by bobby777
Like Richard said--its your BCM--The brown wire mod has fixed all--pull key messages-- that i have read about--if lmc5 is working and all wires are placed right--only other thing has to be the BCM is way out of sync with lmc5-
I think its a voltage problem somewhere in the BCM, as stated before I hooked a trickle charger up, at Richard's suggestion, and got no pull key message, I get pull key on initial start drive for a few minutes restart without pull key, something going on with voltage, don't forget when I installed my new battery with 120 reserve on the first start I got the pull key and subsequently service column lock, no more service column just pull key, what I cant figure out is where is the voltage loss when the car sits to make me get pull key, there are no shorts or lights left on. If I'm sure this is caused by a bad BCM then I'll replace it, this is driving me nuts !!!!
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 06:46 PM
  #25  
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esfontes
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From: Newburyport MA
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
I would check the condition of the battery connections at the starter solenoid and at the two fuse boxes. They need to be clean bright and tight and with respect to the one at the solenoid, none of the wires burned. No info in your profile or posts about any mods the car may have. Not uncommon for wiring at the solenoid to have charred or loose wiring/connections on car with headers due to the heat they produce.
I hope this will help put the PULL KEY issue behind for all those, like myself, who cant seem to stop the message, REDVETTE has it right, the LMC5 is FOR MOST the answer to the problem, UNLESS YOU HAVE A BCM THAT IS FAILING, as I stated before I checked everything possible and still got the Pull Key all that was left was the BCM so after much contemplating I bit the bullet and bought a Delco BCM had it installed and programmed, NO MORE PULL KEY !! PS, THE LMC5 IS STILL INSTALLED. The correct part # is 10304930 which supercedes 09381409, its not a cheap fix but whats your piece of mind worth?
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