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For those needing to replace a reverse lockout solenoid:

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Old Sep 19, 2016 | 06:03 PM
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Default For those needing to replace a reverse lockout solenoid:

Easy, but let me save you some time that I wasted...

Mine just recently went bad, allowing the gate to remain open for the dreaded accidental fourth-to-reverse shift when trying for fifth.

I read several write-ups here and ordered a replacement solenoid. GM #19178634.

For some reason I expected to find this solenoid screwed into a housing that would be at the FRONT of the transmission and the hold-down screw would be screwed DOWN into the top of the transmission. Wrong on both counts. The solenoid is located at the REAR of the transmission (With the body/electrical connector facing forward) and the housing it screws into goes SIDEWAYS into the top of the transmission from the passenger side.

Once I got the car up on jack stands I wasted a good fifteen minutes trying to find the solenoid then figure out just where the 13mm-head hold-down-bolt was. Once I finally figured it out, removing it was easy. Once the bolt was out, the housing slipped right out of the transmission. I discovered that if you unplug the harness from the temperature sensor (fill plug) and the CAGS solenoid, there is enough slack to let the reverse lockout solenoid hang down pretty far on the passenger side of the transmission so there's no need to fight the electrical connector while it's in place and hidden from view.

Unscrew the old solenoid from the housing and screw the new one in. Plug it back in then replace the housing and hold-down-screw. You're done. I found that a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 13mm deep socket worked well, but had I not already been tired of crawling out from under the car, I'd have used a 1" extension on the socket for the perfect fit.

Car now shifts properly and doesn't have any chance of finding reverse while moving forward at any more than a walking pace.

Hopefully I can save someone a bit of time here. Had I not wasted so much time trying to figure out the orientation of the parts, it would have taken me no more than ten minutes to replace.
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Old Sep 20, 2016 | 11:06 AM
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You can see the reverse lockout solenoid at the top of my tranny

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Old Sep 20, 2016 | 03:31 PM
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While we're at it, this is what the Anti-venom mod looks like. It's directly below the reverse solenoid on the pass side.

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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 11:08 PM
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Question if anyone is still following this thread. I read that the tranny must be in reverse to remove and in neutral to re install the solenoid, is this true? Also does the dealerships still have the book drop tranny for this job or do they follow this procedure as OP used as would prefer not to do it if cheap enough?

Last edited by El original; Sep 26, 2016 at 11:10 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by El original
Question if anyone is still following this thread. I read that the tranny must be in reverse to remove and in neutral to re install the solenoid, is this true? Also does the dealerships still have the book drop tranny for this job or do they follow this procedure as OP used as would prefer not to do it if cheap enough?
Not positive that it HAS TO BE in any particular gear, but I think mine was in neutral when I changed mine. Don't think it matters though, as everything is spring loaded.
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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 12:31 AM
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Thank you for quick response. I have to change mine out on my '03 as I am convinced it failed today. I am hoping it is as easy as you say to change...will buy part and try to install this coming weekend. Rob
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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by El original
Thank you for quick response. I have to change mine out on my '03 as I am convinced it failed today. I am hoping it is as easy as you say to change...will buy part and try to install this coming weekend. Rob
It really is an easy replacement. The only symptom that I'm aware of is the ability to shift to reverse at more than a slow walking pace. I knew mine was bad because I could accidentally grind reverse when trying for fifth. Once I replaced the solenoid I crawled down the road at a walking pace and could feel the reverse lockout engage at about 3-4 MPH.
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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 04:31 PM
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May contact you later if there are any questions on my side. Thankyou again.
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 03:51 PM
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Update, I booked and appointment at local GM dealership for tomorrow to install solenoid they have nothing in books as for time and will take my word for the short time it takes and if all goes well a $75- bill plus $145- for solenoid are coming my way. Their transmission guy at the GM store never has heard of it going bad. They will not warrant it to be the fix and no codes were thrown. He says the solenoid is commanded by the PCM. I have my fingers crossed and will print off your "how to" for the mechanic. Rob
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by any4xx
.....

I discovered that if you unplug the harness from the temperature sensor (fill plug) and the CAGS solenoid, there is enough slack to let the reverse lockout solenoid hang down pretty far on the passenger side of the transmission so there's no need to fight the electrical connector while it's in place and hidden from view.

Unscrew the old solenoid from the housing and screw the new one in. Plug it back in then replace the housing and hold-down-screw. You're done. I found that a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 13mm deep socket worked well, but had I not already been tired of crawling out from under the car, I'd have used a 1" extension on the socket for the perfect fit.

Car now shifts properly and doesn't have any chance of finding reverse while moving forward at any more than a walking pace.

Hopefully I can save someone a bit of time here. Had I not wasted so much time trying to figure out the orientation of the parts, it would have taken me no more than ten minutes to replace.
Good tips on the replacement.

I bolded the above in RED because it's worth noting that that step ONLY applies to Z06 (M12) transmissions. Most C5s with six-speeds are not Z06s and thus no temp sensor.
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 11:00 PM
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A BIG Thank you to all that posted info on this topic. I had the solenoid replaced and also the differential oil. All was done for $400- Thanks to you guys I got the labor down to $75- as promised by GM dealership Woo hoo! Corvette runs excellent. Greetings, Rob
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 04:18 PM
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Default thank you

CF senior member
As a fellow senior, thank you for your 4 year old post. Not sure if I would have attempted this without your post. Followed it to a T. Worked out perfectly.
Thank you
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 04:22 PM
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Default thank you

CF senior member
As a fellow senior, thank you for your 4 year old post. Not sure if I would have attempted this without your post. Followed it to a T. Worked out perfectly.
Thank you
Sorry, I'm new on here.
I guess it is Any 4xx
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 06:32 PM
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just the info I am glad to see. I was considering replacing this part as preventative maintenance, , thinking that a new part would eliminate my concern about suddenly finding out the part had failed by shifting into reverse at speed. I don't know much about the part, and had assumed the transmission would be designed so that such a catastrophic event would not happen, but do not know that.

Now that I have had the installation explained, I am more interested in a remove and replace .
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 06:47 PM
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Default Not as difficult as it looks.

Originally Posted by strand rider
just the info I am glad to see. I was considering replacing this part as preventative maintenance, , thinking that a new part would eliminate my concern about suddenly finding out the part had failed by shifting into reverse at speed. I don't know much about the part, and had assumed the transmission would be designed so that such a catastrophic event would not happen, but do not know that.

Now that I have had the installation explained, I am more interested in a remove and replace .
Catastrophic failure not likely. Just nasty grinding when you hit reverse. At that point I would replace immediately. I was able to duplicate sticking solenoid while bench testing old unit.
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ROBERT SCOTTALINE
Catastrophic failure not likely. Just nasty grinding when you hit reverse. At that point I would replace immediately. I was able to duplicate sticking solenoid while bench testing old unit.
My solenoid is bad as well and I have a new one to replace but haven't done the swap as of yet. I looked at it and I hate any electrical connections and that is the main reason I haven't pulled it. So if I remove the tranny temp. and cags connections that are on drivers side it will allow me to pull solenoid out and down far enough to disconnect it. Does tranny have to be in any particular position to get solenoid in and out, neutral or other gear? I have a pit in my shop so getting under the car is no problem, I may take another crack at it. Thanks
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 09:48 AM
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Default Do away with CAGS!

I would just keep it out of reverse. While you have the CAGS disconnected, why not buy the shift skip eliminator? You're right there.
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 09:53 AM
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It’s obviously been a while, but don’t bother fighting the electrical connector while the solenoid is mounted to the transmission. Once you remove the one bolt holding it in place and unplug the easy-to-see connectors on the drivers side the solenoid can drop down to the passenger side far enough that you can easily get to its connector. I don’t recall having my transmission in any particular gear. Probably it was in neutral, but I don’t think it matters.

Last edited by any4xx; Nov 11, 2020 at 09:55 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ROBERT SCOTTALINE
I would just keep it out of reverse. While you have the CAGS disconnected, why not buy the shift skip eliminator? You're right there.
Thanks and my car has the skip eliminator already.
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 10:20 AM
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Just curious. R u guys doing this with the in Ignition on.
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