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Just curious. R u guys doing this with the in Ignition on.
Ignition off
I think I left it in second gear
while bench testing the old one for kick, it appears that a little lubrication really brings it back to full function
Ok, I just removed the reverse lockout solenoid and replaced the housing. My son's 99 frc is still having issues going into, and staying in, reverse. Dammit!! What else could it be?
Ok, I just removed the reverse lockout solenoid and replaced the housing. My son's 99 frc is still having issues going into, and staying in, reverse. Dammit!! What else could it be?
Bad shift linkage. Bad gears. Does it pop out under acceleration or while slowing down? The lockout solenoid only keeps you from shifting into reverse when the car is moving faster than a walking pace.
Ok, here's the situation: Foot on brake & clutch depressed, put shifter into reverse and it's still kind of hard to get it to "pop" into gear. When it's in R, you start backing the car up and pop, it's back into neutral. If you hold the shifter hard in reverse while backing up, it'll hold.
4 out of 5 times (if you don't hold the shifter in reverse while backing up) it will pop out of gear.
I’m assuming this is only a “reverse” issue otherwise you’d have mentioned 1st gear also. I’m thinking MAYBE clutch, as first gear has synchro’s and may still engage with a bit of drag, but, if I remember correctly, reverse has no synchro’s. BUT... since you have to hold it in reverse, I’d bet that your problem may be with the shifter linkage not being able to fully engage reverse. Worst case would be the reverse gears are just shot and won’t hold. Hard to diagnose from the keyboard. Sadly, not the reverse lockout solenoid, which you’ve already discovered.
I’m assuming this is only a “reverse” issue otherwise you’d have mentioned 1st gear also. I’m thinking MAYBE clutch, as first gear has synchro’s and may still engage with a bit of drag, but, if I remember correctly, reverse has no synchro’s. BUT... since you have to hold it in reverse, I’d bet that your problem may be with the shifter linkage not being able to fully engage reverse. Worst case would be the reverse gears are just shot and won’t hold. Hard to diagnose from the keyboard. Sadly, not the reverse lockout solenoid, which you’ve already discovered.
Ok, Thank you so much for this information. I'm going to check the shifter linkage I think his shifter is pretty shot too He's looking at an MGM or a Hinson right now. The hinson is a little cheaper by like 20 or 30 bucks I don't know which one is better? Thank you for the assistance though! 🙏
My 2005 (same trans as C5) suddenly has a lot of resistance to push the shifter all the way to the right and up into reverse. The shifter box to rod connection was slipping, but I think that is because of the amount of force I had to use, even punching it to go to the right. I tightened it with the proper alignment with lots of clearance inside of the shifter box. All of the other gears are easy. It is impossible to get it into reverse using your right hand. You have to use your left hand and force it hard into reverse. It does go into reverse and the reverse solenoid wire is connected. I pulled the Trans Solenoid Fuse and then it would not go into reverse no matter what. So clearly the wiring to the solenoid is fine. Could the solenoid be going bad or wouldn’t it just fail and not go into reverse no matter what?
All the solenoid does is stops from going into reverse gear while driving, has nothing to do pushing it into reverse.
What??? Do you understand what you are saying? That the solenoid stops from being able to shift into reverse, but has nothing to do with getting it into reverse? You are a contradiction yourself. The solenoid is locked to prevent from going into reverse. It is only when stopped that it is powered to unlock and allow you to get into reverse. If it stops working, or is not getting power, then there is no going into reverse even when stopped.
The Problem was the solenoid. People always say that the solenoids only completely fail and you can’t get the car into reverse at all. In my case, it was not properly retracting the lock out pin, and it took a lot of force to get it into reverse. It is a very inexpensive part so I replaced it. Why test if lubricating it will work when it is extremely difficult to access it with an exhaust in place and a differential brace. It took me 90 min to get it in and out and my hands got very scraped up. If I did this again, I would disconnecting the rear upper control arms and lowering the suspension cradle/trans.
What??? Do you understand what you are saying? That the solenoid stops from being able to shift into reverse, but has nothing to do with getting it into reverse? You are a contradiction yourself. The solenoid is locked to prevent from going into reverse. It is only when stopped that it is powered to unlock and allow you to get into reverse. If it stops working, or is not getting power, then there is no going into reverse even when stopped.
The Problem was the solenoid. People always say that the solenoids only completely fail and you can’t get the car into reverse at all. In my case, it was not properly retracting the lock out pin, and it took a lot of force to get it into reverse. It is a very inexpensive part so I replaced it. Why test if lubricating it will work when it is extremely difficult to access it with an exhaust in place and a differential brace. It took me 90 min to get it in and out and my hands got very scraped up. If I did this again, I would disconnecting the rear upper control arms and lowering the suspension cradle/trans.
There are few failure modes of the solenoid. It can fail electrically or mechanically. One in which it does not retract and allow you to get into reverse without applying a lot of pressure to the shifter. An other mode is where it gets stuck in a position that allows you to shift into reverse anytime and at any speed. It can also cause issues with going into 5th gear if it is partially retracted. I found mine was very easy to replace as long as you lifted the car high enough to get easily underneath it. Just 1 bolt and it pulls out. I did mine with the car in neutral and key off. I guess if you have a differential brace it gets in the way of things and makes the job a lot harder.
An old thread but I ordered mine new reverse solenoid a couple days ago. I opted for the entire piece with the housing (only $16 more). Someone said gear position does not matter but you can't get the new one in if the car is in reverse - ask me how I know
Job wasn't too bad . . . a bit tight.
One a positive note . . . When I installed my stereo and reverse camera the manual showed a reverse trigger in the factory harness. Unfortunately it didn't work, no signal when I put the car in reverse and had to manually go to the stereo menu to turn the camera on.
When I worked on the reverse lockout solenoid today I saw a wire connector unhooked on the side of the transmission (back up light switch). I assume they forgot to plug it in when they changed my clutch. I plugged it an and now when I put the car in reverse, the rear camera shows up on the screen automatically so that is good!
It is only when stopped that it is powered to unlock and allow you to get into reverse. If it stops working, or is not getting power, then there is no going into reverse even when stopped.
This is not correct. When the solenoid is energized (above 3MPH/5KPH) the trans cannot be shifted into reverse.
There are few failure modes of the solenoid. It can fail electrically or mechanically. One in which it does not retract and allow you to get into reverse without applying a lot of pressure to the shifter. An other mode is where it gets stuck in a position that allows you to shift into reverse anytime and at any speed. It can also cause issues with going into 5th gear if it is partially retracted. I found mine was very easy to replace as long as you lifted the car high enough to get easily underneath it. Just 1 bolt and it pulls out. I did mine with the car in neutral and key off. I guess if you have a differential brace it gets in the way of things and makes the job a lot harder.
Extremely good post, but some questions.
From an electrical standpoint, it is fail safe in the sense that if the solenoid will not extend, therefore you will still have access to Reverse gear, but you risk catching Reverse while driving. But at least you can get home or get to the dealer.
I am interested in the "stuck extended" mechanical failure mode you describe. How are you still able to get Reverse gear, albeit with large force? Are you somehow forcing the ridges on the collar or plunger (15 and 17 on linked diagram) past the tip of the solenoid plunger? It seems like if you did this once or twice, the solenoid plunger would be pushed back out of the way, and would no longer be a problem.
Mine has extremely high force to get into Reverse. You can definitely feel the spring rate is excessively high, actually not possible for an average strength person.
This occured after a rear main seal replacement. Dealer is stumped. Any and all ideas are welcomed.
From an electrical standpoint, it is fail safe in the sense that if the solenoid will not extend, therefore you will still have access to Reverse gear, but you risk catching Reverse while driving. But at least you can get home or get to the dealer.
I am interested in the "stuck extended" mechanical failure mode you describe. How are you still able to get Reverse gear, albeit with large force? Are you somehow forcing the ridges on the collar or plunger (15 and 17 on linked diagram) past the tip of the solenoid plunger? It seems like if you did this once or twice, the solenoid plunger would be pushed back out of the way, and would no longer be a problem.
Mine has extremely high force to get into Reverse. You can definitely feel the spring rate is excessively high, actually not possible for an average strength person.
This occured after a rear main seal replacement. Dealer is stumped. Any and all ideas are welcomed.
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If you push hard enough on the shifter the plunger just moves out of the way. The plunger is spring loaded so it returns to the extended position when you shift out of reverse. So it sounds like the solinoid is not stuck. The solinoid is only energized below about 3 mph. If the key is off you can't go into reverse when stopped. Either your solinoid is not working at all or the 12 vdc is not there. It should be easy for the dealer to check its operation and if the 12v is at the connector when on a lift. They can easily command it to operate with a tech2. I would check you fuse 19 for the solinoid.
Holy cow!!! Who-ever said this is easy......NOT!!! ( I guess there are harder things I've done, but still....)
It is do-able. I got it done, but probably took an hour just to get a socket squarely on the bolt with a wrench in a position that could move enough to loosen. I tried all manners of extensions and u-joints, deep and regular sockets. Actually finally got it loosened with just a regular socket on the ratchet without any extension. Only got a single click at a time to loosen. Once broke free, I had a flexible drive screw driver with nut driver attachment to finish loosening. Went right back on no issues. Can't see sh@t, its all by feel.
