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Wierd Clutch issues

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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 09:08 AM
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Default Wierd Clutch issues

Hello all,
I have found a few odd and end threads on this but no real answers. Yesterday at AutoX I pulled to the line disengaged the clutch and then upon starting went to put it in gear and it would not go in any gear just surge forward no grinding or noise? Pushed the car off the line. turned car off push the clutch in has great feel as always and put it in gear no issues start the car and the car surged forward, so the clutch wasn't disengaging. Took it out of gear and went back into gear without issue or surge for most the day hell I finished the event and drove home. On the way home it is going into gear a little harder then normal and a faint grinding going into every gear but nothing major at all.


I have a monster Stg II clutch, new pilot bearing, New slave cylinder and Tick master w/ speed bleeder that was all installed 5 months ago and have put 8kmi on the set up without issue. Could I have gotten air in the system? need to readjust the Tick Master? or a more serious issue?

Last edited by 01badvette; Oct 10, 2016 at 09:08 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 02:43 PM
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Hard to say. The clutch disc clearly is not fully disengaging at times. Look at your fluid line to the slave. Make certain it hasn't fallen on the exhaust somewhere. If everything else is good I'm hazarding a guess that your clutch brake fluid is boiling and causing an issue. If that isn't the issue, maybe your remote bleeder has vibrated loose. You always do the simple/easy diagnostics first. If you don't see anything else, change the brake fluid in the clutch system. You've got the remote bleeder so it's easy enough to do.

Last edited by kp1; Oct 11, 2016 at 03:12 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2016 | 02:52 PM
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The clutch brake fluid is clean and new, I change it every 3-5kmi with redline fluid. The line runs around 1.5" from the long tub headers at its closest point. I am def. gonna check for a loose bleeder and bleed the system out to start really don't feel like dropping the rear cradle down again for the 3rd time this summer. (broke Output shafts 2 months after motor/clutch build).
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Old Oct 11, 2016 | 03:18 AM
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Only other thing That comes to mind is pressure plate bolts backing out. Pull the inspection plate & check them.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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I adjusted the Tick master a little and bled the system all fluid looked good and no real air out of the system. The car shifts and drives perfect and holds the power no issue. However when I launch slowly from a stop in 1st I get a substantial grinding noise as the clutch engages. and then goes away and doesn't do it any other time only from a stop?
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 01:43 PM
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Wel, if it were chatter, I'd still think maybe it's a pressure plate bolt or bolts. Grinding as you have described it means something is hitting the clutch disc. I only know of one thing that can do that - a flywheel bolt. You can't see that by pulling off the bottom of the bell housing, but you may be able to see the forward side of the crank flange a get a gander of the bolts to see if one has backed out. If you can't see it, you might be able to get a finger or two up there and feel each one to see if the bolt depth is consistent.

You have a problem that isn't going away. I'd be taking the inspection cover off 1st if it were me. You already know what the other option is & that's probably where you end up anyhow.
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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 08:24 PM
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Time to pull the TT and see whats going on if you cant see anything from the inspection plate area. Even if you do see something you still have to pull it.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 07:57 AM
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Pulled the inspection plate off last night and everything still looks brand new that I can see. Checked the slave bearing and cylinder, remote bleeder, pressure plate bolts and clearances. No dust, no leaks and everything still appear new like it did when installed back in April. More then likely leaning towards the pilot bearing at this point.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 02:22 PM
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I'm curious to know what the problem is/was once you identify it.
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