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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 03:56 PM
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Default harmonic balancer

what's a good brand of balancer for a replacement on a bone stock 98 auto .want better then oem . but it's not a race car .
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 04:35 PM
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Powerbond has stock size or underdrive
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoken1
Powerbond has stock size or underdrive
seems like a lot of the guys here prefer that to OEM !!
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 05:40 PM
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SLP/ Powerbond work. ATI is probably the best. It isn't cheap, but if you're going to go to all of the trouble to yank the steering rack to replace the balancer, you may as well spend the $$$. And get an ARP crank bolt while you're at it.

1st, if the balancer isn't broke, I wouldn't fix it.

2nd, if you do decide to do this, remember to mark the orientation of your balancer to the crankshaft because GM did at times, adjust the weight on the perimeter to bring engine balance into spec. If yours was one that wasn't simply zero balanced, you'll want to consider matching the imbalance/balance of the original crank pulley. If you do not, you may or may not get a less than acceptable harmonics result. It can be bit of a crap shoot.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 09:58 PM
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I put a stocker on my last motor and a powerbond on the one I installed last month. The powerbond sure looks nicer! Really isn't that much more money. Install is a serious pita, that's for sure. If you look on Amazon You can find some pretty good deals. Also, I found on Autozone they had the Powerbond with a spiff on it where if you spent >$100 online-ship-to-home, you got 20% off and free shipping, made the powerbond downright cheap. Shop around you can save $50-75 on it.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 10:52 PM
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I went with the Power Bond OEM Replacement after having a new AC Delco go bad in 2000 miles and a little over a year.

Cost me $78.00 shipped. Good luck on your repair.
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 02:26 AM
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Consider pinning whatever you go with, or you could have to redo a PITA job. Ask me how I know(twice).
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Cheesecake 07
Consider pinning whatever you go with, or you could have to redo a PITA job. Ask me how I know(twice).
If I ever do a motor over completely, I'm going to mill a key in my crank snout. What a crock of %&*$% having no key. GM =
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by kp1
SLP/ Powerbond work. ATI is probably the best. It isn't cheap, but if you're going to go to all of the trouble to yank the steering rack to replace the balancer, you may as well spend the $$$. And get an ARP crank bolt while you're at it.

1st, if the balancer isn't broke, I wouldn't fix it.

2nd, if you do decide to do this, remember to mark the orientation of your balancer to the crankshaft because GM did at times, adjust the weight on the perimeter to bring engine balance into spec. If yours was one that wasn't simply zero balanced, you'll want to consider matching the imbalance/balance of the original crank pulley. If you do not, you may or may not get a less than acceptable harmonics result. It can be bit of a crap shoot.
He has an automatic transmission vette. Not applicable to automatics. His balancer won't have any balance weights in it. The GM hot balance was only done on engines to be used in manual transmission vettes.
One less thing he has to worry about.
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 10:48 AM
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When my '99 balancer went bad at 30k miles, I put in a Powerbond with an ARP bolt. No problems in the next 4 years and when I sold the car it was still great with absolutely no wobble.
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