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Headlight stuck 1/4" up

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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 03:08 PM
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Default Headlight stuck 1/4" up

On passenger side. I did a search of the forum and dug up a bunch of advice, but still unclear of suggestions.

First off. Lights work fine. I don't hear any chattering of the headlight on rising or closing. So probably not actuator gear issue, correct? Saw advice on bumpstops? One post mentioned adjustment posts.

One thing that I noticed was that assembly was barely sticking up. Now it is actually 1/2" up now.

Any advice to this noob appreciated.

Last edited by WarpedZ06; Nov 22, 2016 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 04:20 PM
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more then likely its a missing or damaged bumpstop or striped headlight gear's...both are fixed pretty easily...i would go with the dorman plastic stock material gears as the main worm gear is plastic as well..and putting in metal gears like the aftermarket kits..over time could strip that worm gear which is not found as easily and in most cases can't be replaced...
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by momo20
more then likely its a missing or damaged bumpstop or striped headlight gear's...both are fixed pretty easily...i would go with the dorman plastic stock material gears as the main worm gear is plastic as well..and putting in metal gears like the aftermarket kits..over time could strip that worm gear which is not found as easily and in most cases can't be replaced...
Yup, guess it is time to just wrench it. Checking bumpstops first. If that's not it, I'll go ahead and plan on replacing the gears anyway.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by momo20
...i would go with the dorman plastic stock material gears as the main worm gear is plastic as well..and putting in metal gears like the aftermarket kits..over time could strip that worm gear which is not found as easily and in most cases can't be replaced...
The plastic gear that breaks and gets replaced by a brass one, engages a metal worm... At least in mine is not plastic:

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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GCG
The plastic gear that breaks and gets replaced by a brass one, engages a metal worm... At least in mine is not plastic:

sorry i stand corrected on that one..and that is why gm used plastic pulley as not to damage the metal gear...the plastic would strip out in a event that head light would not open or such....the brass one's wont allow this to happen and could cause damage
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Old Nov 23, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by momo20
sorry i stand corrected on that one..and that is why gm used plastic pulley as not to damage the metal gear...the plastic would strip out in a event that head light would not open or such....the brass one's wont allow this to happen and could cause damage

So you are saying use plastic gears if you have the plastic worm gear and use plastic gears if you have the metal worm gears.
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Old Nov 24, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by serotta
So you are saying use plastic gears if you have the plastic worm gear and use plastic gears if you have the metal worm gears.
It's contradictory, but in any case, this shouldn't be a concern based on how the headlights assembly mechanism was designed.

The system is based on a "brute-force" principle. When the assembly reaches the totally open or closed position, and it doesn't give anymore, the headlight control module detects a rise in the current draw by the headlight motors and cuts off the voltage.

Therefore, if the assembly gets stuck nothing should get stripped. It should only cause the headlight control module to shut off the voltage to the motors.

IMHO the way to go is with a brass kit. The best/most complete is Rodney Dickman's
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