I've often wondered what all is involved in putting a supercharger on a stock C5 other than a Flowmaster exhaust.
I don't see me doing this for a while, if ever but I'd like to know the types that are best for a street driven only but still put out a fairly amount of power without having to do a lot of other more unnecessary things uneeded for that type of use. I want to keep the mileage good too, other than when into it of course. I don't want to change the hood or anything like that either
They claim 150 hp for a stock engine but is that with an intercooler too and if so where do you put it?
If it goes in front of the radiator I would think it would make the engine run pretty hot at red lights and such since they heat up pretty quick anyway.
I know it is recomended to get it retuned also and these are all new things to me from the things we used to do to the old SBC's.
I'm just getting curious but I know where that usualy takes me

 

Rabbitman, do a google search for "supercharging a C5 Corvette". Its got all the info ....step by step of the install and different types of S/C and costs. Take a look.

 

It depends on what type of supercharger you are speaking of.

If you are talking about a roots type supercharger - these are the type that mount directly on top of the engine replacing the intake - then typically the intercooler is built directly into the supercharger, or there will be an externally mounted water-to-air exchanger nearby. A guy I know runs a "Maggie" on his C5 with a setup like this, with the tank for the exchanger covering the battery (it's actually a very slick setup and other than the Maggie the supporting components are stealthy. That and it's a 383 stroker...).

For a roots supercharger like a Maggie you pretty much have to get a high rise hood. You don't need one that rises incredibly high but it needs to have some clearance. Effectively imagine around three to four inches raised in the middle. A good thing about running a slightly high rise hood is it will work as a heat extractor; a roots type supercharger tends to get fairly hot as it's mounted on top of the engine (A good deal of heat disperses into the "body" of the setup). The extractor along with water cooling helps to remove some of that heat. Remember that the C5 is a heavy "bottom feeder" so the extraction forces are usually really good with a heat extractor hood. While you may not want to modify the hood you should consider the heat extraction factor.

If on the other hand you want something with less modifications then something like the Procharger which is exceptionally popular would be the route to go. That is likely what you are referring to that mounts in the space between the front of the engine and radiator. It mounts like a turbocharger would except it is belt driven rather than reliant on an turbine spooling. Since it's layout is similar to a turbocharger with charged piping it utilizes an air charger ("intercooler") or you can run a water-to-air setup.

Regardless of what type is utilized an increase in fuel capacity has to occur; anytime more air is brought in more fuel has to accompany it. Most kits or units will come with the necessary upgrade components; injectors, fuel pump, etc. Eventually an accompanying tune will yield you an acceptable power result that accompanies cruise-able MPGs. While many kits come with a "street" tune or out-the-box tune it's ultimately advisable you seek a professional tuner that is familiar with LS.

Ultimately the subject has been beaten to death so a good deal of research will yield you whatever you need to know.

 

My best advice is don't get a puffer; keep it stock. I had a puffer and it brings a whole bunch of negative things along with it. Firstly, if you get a centrifugal type like I had, it makes a horrible whining/grinding sound at idle that I did not enjoy nor appreciate. Sure the power was great when I needed it, but I'm not a racer or a track guy and only used it to disappoint the accasional Ford Mustang that wanted to play. I always had the random service codes pop up, and belts squeaked/broke sometimes, and I had to replace the puffer oil regularly. Just in a nutshell, more work than I wanted to do and more expense than stock. Plus, a puffer won't add much value to resale. Keep it stock, and you'll enjoy a fast car that is easier to maintain and you won't be pushing the engine to its limits and throwing codes at you all day long.

 

I believe the slang term is Huffer not Puffer.

 

Wow, sorry for your bad experience...what kit did you go with and who did the install?

I've got an A&A V3 kit professionally installed for I think 4 years now on stock bottom end and drivetrain (little over 500 whp) - no issues....

That whining and grinding sound sounds like something was/is wrong with the head unit. Yes some whine, but for me barely noticeable...

I do a couple to 3 HPDEs and a few drag strip visits per year + some street fun....

Good Luck...

OP - spend some time in the Forced Induction section here...

 

Like mentioned above, there must of been something wrong with your unit. Been A&A supercharged for 8 years and not 1 issue with the system to this day. Vortech V2 Si supercharger installed by A&A. Quiet system, until you get in it, then there is a bit of a supercharger whine. Very reliable system.

 

probably had an ecs kit

 

I thought a puffer was a fish and a huffer inhaled spray paint! When my previous car was supercharged, I called it a ..... supercharger.

 

And here I thought the slang term for a supercharger was Blower.

 

better than a fluffer....

 

Huffer was an early drag racing slang term for SC. Blower is too.
The term for paint sniffing is moron.

 

How many of these issues were the fault of the blower, and how many the install?

What sort of blower? I had a ProCharger on an LT1 and currently a Vortech V3 SI on an LS3 in a '99 Vette. And all I can say is "what whine?" You can barely hear any whine if you're standing by the nose of the car with the hood open.

That sounds to me like you had a poor install and a rotten tune.

Just like you have to change the oil in your engine regularly. It only takes a few minutes...

Really? You think a stock C5 couple is going to sell for more than one making 800HP? Oh well. I didn't build it to sell. I built it to drive.

Or, alternatively, make sure it's installed correctly and has a good tune.

 

It depends on the buyer.

 

Op: the maintenance is easy. The head unit either shares oil with your engine, or is self contained and you change it in 5 minutes at home when an engine oil change is done.

Car value: typically you don't sell a molded car for the value of the parts on top of the vehicle price. I. E. There is not a return on investment. Though the car overall would be worth more than its non SC twin. Best option is to de-mod back to stock and sell stuff separately.

Noise: blowers can be quiet or loud... A little noise is good.... Makes the car meaner. Scares off the posers in the parking lot.

Durability : tune is key! Guys go many years fault free with good tunes. Without a good tune, even low boost can pose a risk.

Insurance: there's stuff you can do to address weak spots in the system. Replace trunions or just add ls3/7 rockers, replace Springs, add methanol as a safety factor for timing/tune, run afr gauge, fuel psi gauge, boost gauge, and eve an exhaust gas temp gauge (some of those can be combined in single gauges or multi display units now)

Otherwise.... Generally, let the car warm up before you flog it.

SC will be fine. Enjoy it!