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Last year I upgraded my shocks all around to C6Z06 and metal end links.
My steering has been feeling a little loose lately and I was thinking it is time for a suspension refresh. I have bought 4 ball joints for the front as well as tie rod ends.
My diff started leaking last year and I have ordered the axle seals as well as the large O-rings for the cover.
My question is, since I have the rear of the car dropped, should I replace the 4 ball joints in the back too? I took the rear control arms off and checked the joints and they do not have any play within the joint, but it is really easy to move around (feels very loose, just not rattling in the socket)
Do they go bad easily? Considering it is higher mileage, I'm leaning toward changing them but want to avoid the additional $300 if possible.
Last edited by cbell3186; Jan 2, 2017 at 08:59 PM.
If you don't mind tearing it down again later then you can wait. Do it nice or do it twice. You may have a few years left on them.
The problem I had was that my bushings got soft. It ran out of caster and camber adjustment. If I got on a bumpy road the car was all over the place. At high speed it would make you fear for your life. I can imagine the wheels moving around a few degrees in all directions. Not good.
I personally don't like doubling back. Some people don't mind it. When money is tight you have no choice. I would rather make payments than tear it down again. Mine had 130,000 miles and were as you described. If there are no broken boots then you may be able to wait.
Last year I upgraded my shocks all around to C6Z06 and metal end links.
My steering has been feeling a little loose lately and I was thinking it is time for a suspension refresh. I have bought 4 ball joints for the front as well as tie rod ends
My question is, since I have the rear of the car dropped, should I replace the 4 ball joints in the back too? I took the rear control arms off and checked the joints and they do not have any play within the joint, but it is really easy to move around (feels very loose, just not rattling in the socket)
Do they go bad easily? Considering it is higher mileage, I'm leaning toward changing them but want to avoid the additional $300 if possible.
When I posted the replacement of all 8 of my ball joints I got comments ranging from ...Impossible, no way they can be worn at 50k to they last 100k miles. 3 out of the 8 were SO Loose they just flopped around in the socket when shook. If you got the thing apart replace them.
Oh and i was also told the entire knuckle and control arm needs to be replace because you can't replace just the ball joint. Purchased Moog and Raybestos Pro ball joints and pressed old one's out, new ones in. That was 5 yrs and 17k miles ago
Shops wont do it when the labor exceeds replacement of the control arm. I had an aftermarket ball joint that wouldn't go in. It turns out it was like .010" bigger. Get ACDelco or Moog.
Yeah the boots are fine, no grease anywhere, I keep running into the car curse where I intend to do do one thing, then see something while I'm in there slightly off and figure "I've already got it apart"
This whole question stemmed from replacing the diff O-ring.
Diff O-ring --> Replace output shaft seals again to be safe --> Strip and repaint calipers -->New flush of Moutul -->ball joints/tie rod ends upfront... you get the picture.
Yeah the boots are fine, no grease anywhere, I keep running into the car curse where I intend to do do one thing, then see something while I'm in there slightly off and figure "I've already got it apart"
This whole question stemmed from replacing the diff O-ring.
Diff O-ring --> Replace output shaft seals again to be safe --> Strip and repaint calipers -->New flush of Moutul -->ball joints/tie rod ends upfront... you get the picture.