This evening I went to pick up my car from being stored for about 3 months. I installed a new battery before storage and had a Ctek plugged into the accessory outlet. I have checked on the car and cranked it every few weeks and occasionally the charger will have an error light and i have to unplug it to get it back on but the vehicle battery never died and was always able to crank the car. last week i ditched the cigarette adapter and alligator clipped it to the battery.

Now tonight I cranked the car and it started immediately. I pulled it out of the garage and left it idling for a few mins to warm up. It was cold outside so i went inside the house. When I came back out the car was not running.

I tried to start it and it cranks over strong and fast but doesn't start. I hear the fuel pump prime every time and the engine doesn't even cough. I do not smell fuel from the exhaust however. After about 10 mins of trying the start I gave up because it was cold and dark and I was late.

I do not think the check engine light is on but I an not sure. I plan on going to check it out tomorrow and was just wanting some ideas to look for.

I have searched and read about the ignition switch, vats, and the pellet in the key but since the engine cranks over every time Im not sure these could be the problem. Also it was running and cut off on its own and now will not start. Will an ignition switch cause it to die then not restart? I have a feeling its fuel related just because after all the cranking I did not smell fuel. I know that's not scientific information.

It low mileage 2003 coupe 6 speed always garage kept. Any help or direction would be great.

Thanks in advance

 

Great information! I did not know how to check codes so thanks for that will post findings tomorrow evening. car is stock and has never been worked on to my knowledge I am the 2nd owner though. Only thing I have done it added a 4 gauge wire from battery to alternator and battey to fuse-relay box. Added engine ground and battery ground to frame. Thats was a few years ago now. I did NOT smell fuel after cranking and the pump primes but I dont know if I have pressure yet. I will update tomorrow.

 

Codes:

PCM- P0335 C

TCS - C1276 H

A0-LDCM - B2252 H
B2282 H
B2284 H
U1064 H

A1-RDCM - B2283 H
B2285 H
U1064 H
B0-RFA - U1000 H

First thing I did was check the codes. I didnt touch anything else. After retreiving the codes I tried to start and I started and idled for 15 mins and then I took it for a drive about 20 miles. I shut the car off a few times and it restarted normally. No check engine light and I did NOT reset the codes. Ive never had fuel gauge falling to zero issues. I try to keep techron in the tank when it is going to sit a while.

Any ideas?

 

Thats what I figured. The battery has been very low before and wouldnt crank. That is when I upgraded the battery and got a c tek maintainer.

Now for the Crank Sensor. Is it usually a bad sensor??? Is it as simple as getting to the sensor, removing it and reinstalling a new one. Does the new sensor need a relearn or be programmed I read that somewhere possibly? I will verify circuit integrity when i get to the sensor but would like to have a new one with me if I find the circuit checks out good.

ALSO, when there is no crank signal to the pcm, what is cut FUEL or Spark????
Thanks

 

I would guess it definitely cuts the fuel injectors that's why I never smelled any fuel while trying to crank. I had a Nissan with a bad cam sensor and it would only cut spark and you could smell raw gas.

Thank you for all your information and I would like to see the page in the service manual when you get a chance. I wish I had or knew someone with an oscilloscope to see the crank sensor signal when it is good versus when it will not start.

If the pcm stores an active code why doesn't the check engine light illuminate? I was able to drive it to a North Carolina Inspection station today and it passed the annual inspection. A check engine light immediately fails and that is another reason I did not want to reset the codes today because a full drive cycle has to be preformed to pass the inspection as well.

Thanks again

 

You may be able to feel it and wiggle the connector without removing the starter.

You can see it in this picture.




To service it, you WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE STRTER!!

 

info:
Broke transmission cable identified it was the plastic cap, while waiting for delivery figured I would replace disintegrating sponge tape with split wire loom and F4 tape.
car will not start, NEW battery
Turn ignition
all lights come on, security light turns off, get clicking at TDR but nothing
I have taken apart the ignition and cleaned contacts (per forum instructions.)
pulled codes all have H mostly from dreaded reduced engine power
cleared codes non have returned but car has not started
Purple wire on blue pug on TDR reads 10.5 v when ignition is turned
Any ideas?

 

Thank you. My apologies