what needs to be disconnected, what has to be unbolted etc. to do this. thanks.

 

Check in the stickies. There is a tutorial by forum member "Dope" which gives you every step to do a clutch change. I used his info for a successful clutch swap done at home. If you don't find it there, you'll have to search for it.

 

Some C5 CLUTCH LESSON LEARNED!

- Install a remote slave bleeder hose!!!
- REPLACE THE PILOT BEARING!!
- Replace the Master Cyl as it will be full of clutch dust slime!
- Match mark the flywheel to crank, pressure plate to flywheel. Follow the recommended flywheel balance procedure to prevent unwanted vibrations!

- Disassemble the TT and check the rubber couplers for deterioration/crack. Replace with OEM GM Couplers if necessary!

Some related links:

- C5 BEST DRIVE TRAIN POST GOING: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591614975 https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1591614975



- C5 TICK MASTER CYLINDER: http://tick-performance.com/images/tickshiftfaq.html http://tick-performance.com/images/tickshiftfaq.html

- C5 Clutch Vibration Issues: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1585950971

- TICK SHIM MEASUREMENT from the parts web site: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/ http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/

- C5 FLYWHEEL BALANCE ISSUES: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ion-twice.html

- - C5 Clutch Vibration Issues: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1585950971 <http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3403737-vibration-after-new-clutch-install.html#post1585950971> C5, C6, C7 HOT BALANCE See time stamp at approx 8

- C5 TICK Master Cylinder FACTS: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...inder-kit.html

- - C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

While the differential is out, it easy to replace the output shaft seals!

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
-

 

The PILOT BEARING is a real PAIN IN THE *** to get in and out. Ive found that If I heat the crank flange till its about 150 deg, it makes getting the pilot brg in and out a LOT easier! Purchase or rent the small internal bearing puller. I got mine from Auto Zone rental.

DO NOT use the old grease and a punch method of removal or you will unseat the oil seal plug inside the crank!!!!!!!!!!

 

Another great advice from Bill Curlee. I nominate him to the C5 Corvette Forum Hall of Fame.

 

FWIW, the Autozone rental puller jaws are too wide/thick to fit in the PB hole. I had to do some judicious grinding on it on both the "teeth" and the backside of the jaws (to get them to fit together tighter).

 

I had very good luck with my throwout bearing using the puller and slide hammer from Autozone with no modifications. It gripped "well enough". I put it in place, grabbed it, and hammered it about 5 times as hard as I could and the thing came right out. It was cake, though I mangled it in the process. It should have been changed when the clutch was swapped during a supercharged install that included a new RST clutch, so could be part of why it came out easier than these guys.

All of the points here are very important. I didn't replace the master, and still wouldn't if I need to do a clutch again. It's the only thing here I don't think should be "required".

Absolutely do the throwout bearing, slave, and inspect/replace the torque tube couplers and bearings.

Measure the slave and clutch distances to make sure nothing needs to be shimmed for proper engagement.

Pay particular attention to the balancing/weighting that Bill Curlee mentions. When I Installed my clutch, I made sure that the new flywheel/clutch assembly sent to me from McLeod all lined up. They had everything balanced before shipping to me. However, I have a nasty vibration from about 2,200-2,500rpm. No idea if it's from the Pfadt motor mounts and TorqueTube Brace I installed or a balancing issue with the clutch assembly and motor. Just beware that balancing is important.

 

The one I rented required just a little grinding and after that was done it worked PERFECT. You will make the entire job of bearing removal MUCH easier if you heat the crank flange up with a heat gun or torch to approx 150 -180 degs. Same for reinstallation.

BC

 

Had no problem with installation—no "re" about it, since the old one was mangled upon removal, and I wouldn't re-use a PB.

 

You want the Chrysler jaw puller nothing else. I have used it a few times Ill post pics and the p/n later. that should be a sticky to instead of what others due very simple

 

There is a great thread by formerbiker that details the procedure from start to finish. Unplug the fuel line up front. Pull the weights from the old assy and install into the new assy.