Few Questions on Starter replacement
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Few Questions on Starter replacement
First Hello all and thank you for taking time to read my post.
I will need to replace the starter on my c5 very soon as I am occasionally having the no start issue, I have replaced the tdr relay, and the ignition switch, checked the neutral safety and it checks out good each time.
I know I will need to drop the exhaust, I fear the 3 header nuts/studs on each side that connect the header to the exhaust h-pipe.
I keep reading to soak them with some type of wd-40/pd-blaster. I'm good with that but can not see all 3 from the top I plan to soak them as much as possible at least 24hrs prior to starting the job.
Next everyone says to use heat to help, and I totally understand this, but if I heat them up wont that burn off any lubricant (wd-40) I have previously applied? Also wouldn't heat make the studs more likely to snap while twisting off??
Next removal of the nuts, am I better off using or starting with an impact? what type of impact, I have both the ratchet or regular impact gun?
Is there an easy way to access the top nut? Also I will not be working with a lift so that sucks. Do I need to raise both front and back ends of the car or is just the front good enough?
Any help greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!!
I will need to replace the starter on my c5 very soon as I am occasionally having the no start issue, I have replaced the tdr relay, and the ignition switch, checked the neutral safety and it checks out good each time.
I know I will need to drop the exhaust, I fear the 3 header nuts/studs on each side that connect the header to the exhaust h-pipe.
I keep reading to soak them with some type of wd-40/pd-blaster. I'm good with that but can not see all 3 from the top I plan to soak them as much as possible at least 24hrs prior to starting the job.
Next everyone says to use heat to help, and I totally understand this, but if I heat them up wont that burn off any lubricant (wd-40) I have previously applied? Also wouldn't heat make the studs more likely to snap while twisting off??
Next removal of the nuts, am I better off using or starting with an impact? what type of impact, I have both the ratchet or regular impact gun?
Is there an easy way to access the top nut? Also I will not be working with a lift so that sucks. Do I need to raise both front and back ends of the car or is just the front good enough?
Any help greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!!
#2
Pro
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Springfield Ohio
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
Received 100 Likes
on
83 Posts
You're overthinking the task. Get the car up on jack stands, spray the bolts and go to work. It doesn't take a lot of advanced planning. An impact wrench can be useful but probably not needed except in extreme cases.
#3
1/4 mile/AutoX
if they won't come off just using a rachet and socket, heat them red hot then spray with water, they will then come off like butter !!
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
thanks, I will see if I can order from amazon? Also since I would like to replaced the stud and nuts is there a kit I can order, thought I saw something like that in one of the post I was reading only now cant remember which one?
#6
1/4 mile/AutoX
Last edited by Pounder; 02-28-2017 at 10:44 AM.
#7
Advanced
I have broken one of those studs removing it with a ratchet. Had to take the whole manifold off to replace the stud. Can make for a worse day than needed if you're not prepared. I didn't use any lubricant though and just went at them, so I may be to blame.
I would recommend wd-40 or pbblaster for a few hours.
There is an old trick I learned a few years back. On exhaust, you can heat studs and then melt a crayon right at the stud threads. As the stud cools, the crayon wax gets sucked in and it works like magic. This likely works better on heads than this situation, although if in a pinch, trying it wouldn't hurt.
I would recommend wd-40 or pbblaster for a few hours.
There is an old trick I learned a few years back. On exhaust, you can heat studs and then melt a crayon right at the stud threads. As the stud cools, the crayon wax gets sucked in and it works like magic. This likely works better on heads than this situation, although if in a pinch, trying it wouldn't hurt.
Last edited by vipmiller803; 02-28-2017 at 12:54 PM.
#8
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,181 Likes
on
1,584 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Wire brush ALL of the exposed threads on the stud so that once you break the nut loose, it wont gall onto the stud.
#9
Advanced
You're overthinking the task. Get the car up on jack stands, spray the bolts and go to work. It doesn't take a lot of advanced planning. An impact wrench can be useful but probably not needed except in extreme cases.
You will have to get the rear end off the ground to get access to the bolts and nuts. I used jack stands for the rear with the front on ramps. I supported the exhaust with a scissors jack so I could lower it when everything was loosened and, likewise, so I could raise it back into position.
My C5 is a '98 and to my knowledge, the exhaust and starter have never been removed.
Last edited by Vulcan73; 03-01-2017 at 12:29 PM.