Oil Bathed Cylinders
02-28-2017, 02:51 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Oil Bathed Cylinders
Alright guys, we all know that for some reason the c5 sucks oil in like it was made for it. But..when my cylinder walls are literally polished and coated with oil, I find it a bit much. I have installed the ls6 style Valley cover and and an elite engineering catch can..correctly. I would point to bad rings but my car doesn't smoke a bit..and my intake ports and intake is literally coated with oil. So any ideas on how to fix this? I have a burning oil smell under wot so the oil intake is likely in that event.
Thanks for any assistance!
Ben Marino
Thanks for any assistance!
Ben Marino
02-28-2017, 04:50 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks
03-04-2017, 09:30 AM
#7
Supporting Vendor
high volume oil pump or unrestricted pushrods when using a hv oil pump can indirectly cause increased pcv oil consumption since oil flow to the top side of the engine (where the air is collected) is increased.
not getting the tune fixed, or dialed in quick enough after any engine airflow change (cam) can result in un-burned fuel washing the cylinders and ruining the seal from cylinder to the rings. This would cause cylinder oil consumption but would show up in the intake manifold as well.
aftermarket heads IMO is your problem. they do not, especially more budget heads, properly address tolerances of valve guide and seal geometry to control oil like stock. i would start there, also explains how the oil is magically getting around the can (because its not through the pcv system).
If you can determine that it is indeed making its way through the can I am happy to invite you to check out my offerings and what we can do to help.
not getting the tune fixed, or dialed in quick enough after any engine airflow change (cam) can result in un-burned fuel washing the cylinders and ruining the seal from cylinder to the rings. This would cause cylinder oil consumption but would show up in the intake manifold as well.
aftermarket heads IMO is your problem. they do not, especially more budget heads, properly address tolerances of valve guide and seal geometry to control oil like stock. i would start there, also explains how the oil is magically getting around the can (because its not through the pcv system).
If you can determine that it is indeed making its way through the can I am happy to invite you to check out my offerings and what we can do to help.
__________________
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Solutions for the common gearhead #made in USA
mightymousesolutions.com
facebok.com/mightymousesolutions
#mmsolutions
Six time NMCA True Street Champions
Home of the first Twin Turbo C7Z 7.81 @ 176
3470# Stock bottom end and heads Corvette Stock Bottom End Record Holder
03-05-2017, 07:25 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
03-05-2017, 07:29 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
high volume oil pump or unrestricted pushrods when using a hv oil pump can indirectly cause increased pcv oil consumption since oil flow to the top side of the engine (where the air is collected) is increased.
not getting the tune fixed, or dialed in quick enough after any engine airflow change (cam) can result in un-burned fuel washing the cylinders and ruining the seal from cylinder to the rings. This would cause cylinder oil consumption but would show up in the intake manifold as well.
aftermarket heads IMO is your problem. they do not, especially more budget heads, properly address tolerances of valve guide and seal geometry to control oil like stock. i would start there, also explains how the oil is magically getting around the can (because its not through the pcv system).
If you can determine that it is indeed making its way through the can I am happy to invite you to check out my offerings and what we can do to help.
not getting the tune fixed, or dialed in quick enough after any engine airflow change (cam) can result in un-burned fuel washing the cylinders and ruining the seal from cylinder to the rings. This would cause cylinder oil consumption but would show up in the intake manifold as well.
aftermarket heads IMO is your problem. they do not, especially more budget heads, properly address tolerances of valve guide and seal geometry to control oil like stock. i would start there, also explains how the oil is magically getting around the can (because its not through the pcv system).
If you can determine that it is indeed making its way through the can I am happy to invite you to check out my offerings and what we can do to help.
Thanks guy!
03-05-2017, 09:33 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
03-06-2017, 09:25 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
ok so just hear me out. they replaced parts that were apparently not contributing to oil consumption (yet these parts have complete capability to contribute to oil consumption)..
and now you have oil consumption, with no other changes
just saying, you are assuming the heads are better or at least as good as they were before because you spent your hard earned money on them. lets find out for sure. i have seen it the opposite more than once.
if the exhaust port is wet then it is almost always an exhaust valve/seal/guide problem
the intake valve is harder to diagnose because of pcv oil consumption and fuel washing it off. looking for the valve seal to be in place and doing a wiggle test is a good start
all that said if you know you ran around without a re-tune between cam and heads or after both for a while then you could have easily earned yourself a fresh set of rings and a re-hone.
and now you have oil consumption, with no other changes
just saying, you are assuming the heads are better or at least as good as they were before because you spent your hard earned money on them. lets find out for sure. i have seen it the opposite more than once.
if the exhaust port is wet then it is almost always an exhaust valve/seal/guide problem
the intake valve is harder to diagnose because of pcv oil consumption and fuel washing it off. looking for the valve seal to be in place and doing a wiggle test is a good start
all that said if you know you ran around without a re-tune between cam and heads or after both for a while then you could have easily earned yourself a fresh set of rings and a re-hone.
03-06-2017, 12:34 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
ok so just hear me out. they replaced parts that were apparently not contributing to oil consumption (yet these parts have complete capability to contribute to oil consumption)..
and now you have oil consumption, with no other changes
just saying, you are assuming the heads are better or at least as good as they were before because you spent your hard earned money on them. lets find out for sure. i have seen it the opposite more than once.
if the exhaust port is wet then it is almost always an exhaust valve/seal/guide problem
the intake valve is harder to diagnose because of pcv oil consumption and fuel washing it off. looking for the valve seal to be in place and doing a wiggle test is a good start
all that said if you know you ran around without a re-tune between cam and heads or after both for a while then you could have easily earned yourself a fresh set of rings and a re-hone.
and now you have oil consumption, with no other changes
just saying, you are assuming the heads are better or at least as good as they were before because you spent your hard earned money on them. lets find out for sure. i have seen it the opposite more than once.
if the exhaust port is wet then it is almost always an exhaust valve/seal/guide problem
the intake valve is harder to diagnose because of pcv oil consumption and fuel washing it off. looking for the valve seal to be in place and doing a wiggle test is a good start
all that said if you know you ran around without a re-tune between cam and heads or after both for a while then you could have easily earned yourself a fresh set of rings and a re-hone.
As for maybe needing some new rings..might as well get some pistons while im there right!?! haha
03-09-2017, 12:10 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
Just for info.....
When I bought my C5, it had 22,000 miles on it. Bought it in Dallas. I drove it from Texas to Arizona, and when I got home, all fine and dandy.
The second week I had it, the low oil light came on.
I had checked the oil when I left Texas, and again when I got home. I had put a half quart in (newbie owner) and thought all was well.
but the second week, the light came on and I checked it again.
It was 2 quarts down.
I went to my local engine builder that has built a few engines for me, and machined the ones I put together.
he said drive it like you were your grand mother.
He thought someone in my car's past had done a lot of cold engine high rev driving, and the rings needed to reseat.
He builds stock car engines for his real money, and so I tried it.
I drove it for 5,000 miles like the cylinders were made of glass, and the pistons were plastic.
Guess what, in the course of four months, the engine slowly stopped using oil Now I can go between oil changes (5000 miles) and only need 1/2 quart.
I change the filter every 2500 miles, and the oil stays almost yellow.
I guess the rings needed reseating when I got it.
His reasoning was that the early 01 engines didn't have enough skirt on the pistons, and they rock at high RPM when cold.
So I have 83,000 on it now, and drive it spiritedly, but don't hit the red line ever, and it has rewarded me with good service, and runs strong.
Drive it like you stole it was never good advice if you ask me.
When I bought my C5, it had 22,000 miles on it. Bought it in Dallas. I drove it from Texas to Arizona, and when I got home, all fine and dandy.
The second week I had it, the low oil light came on.
I had checked the oil when I left Texas, and again when I got home. I had put a half quart in (newbie owner) and thought all was well.
but the second week, the light came on and I checked it again.
It was 2 quarts down.
I went to my local engine builder that has built a few engines for me, and machined the ones I put together.
he said drive it like you were your grand mother.
He thought someone in my car's past had done a lot of cold engine high rev driving, and the rings needed to reseat.
He builds stock car engines for his real money, and so I tried it.
I drove it for 5,000 miles like the cylinders were made of glass, and the pistons were plastic.
Guess what, in the course of four months, the engine slowly stopped using oil Now I can go between oil changes (5000 miles) and only need 1/2 quart.
I change the filter every 2500 miles, and the oil stays almost yellow.
I guess the rings needed reseating when I got it.
His reasoning was that the early 01 engines didn't have enough skirt on the pistons, and they rock at high RPM when cold.
So I have 83,000 on it now, and drive it spiritedly, but don't hit the red line ever, and it has rewarded me with good service, and runs strong.
Drive it like you stole it was never good advice if you ask me.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; 03-09-2017 at 12:20 AM.
03-09-2017, 12:35 AM
#16
Yes, but it sounds cool. And makes you look like you're a real bad ***. LOL.
Last edited by itsonlyairandfuel; 03-09-2017 at 12:36 AM.
