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Differential question - please help!

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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 08:48 AM
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Default Differential question - please help!

Hello All,

Rebuilding my differential since my bevillewashers/clutches are toast.
purchased this kit from ebay to beef it up a bit.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Corvette-C5-D...tT~MZT&vxp=mtr

As of now I have everything in the diff apart and just have the casing.
My question I have is when I start assembling these new parts from the upgrade kit do I need to calculate clearence/shims or not(special tools)????? or is it just plug and play????
I read up on a couple articles and I read on the one that when replacing your gear ratio then you need to do so with figuring out shim sizes. And seen another article with this kit and it never mentioned anything about setting up shim measurements and it was plug and play??

Any feedback would be much appreciated!!
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 09:40 AM
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...procedure.html

first post has a link to fsm

Last edited by feeder82; Mar 10, 2017 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 10:18 AM
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The pinion gear pack should not have been removed BUT,, I you did not remove any of the bearing races in the housing (disturb the shims behind the bearing races) just reassemble the diff with the parts in that kit. YES,,, changing the gear ratios requires the special set up tools and reshimming the bearings for back lash and gear set. It will be fine if you did not remove the bearing races in the case.

Here are some post for you to check out:

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html
-

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 10, 2017 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 10:33 AM
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Thanks Bill for your input.
I know I shouldnt have removed the pinion gear but I wanted to check it out and inspect. I have not removed any of the bearings or the pinion nut as per say. Are the shims all inside the pinion assembly?? I didnt see any shims in the casing.
Take a look at some pics and let me know if I should be OK. I do have the manual for all correct tq specs so of it just plug and play I should he fine. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
Everything is intact besides the gear that I took off for some reason lol
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 03:36 PM
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You should be fine for just cleaning, new part from the kit install and reassembly.

Those thin shimms from the pinion cluster are used to set pinion gear depth/ gear contact patch.

The shims that set the gear back lash are BEHIND the bearing race in side cover with the large roller bering. Unless you pound out that bearing race from the cover, you will not see them.

The pinion assembly has its own shims inside the pinion assy and that sets the pinion gear bearing preload.

Bill
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 11:54 PM
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Ok thanks for your feedback!!
Is there any checks once all assembled??
Should I check for shaft play w dial or wont be necessary??
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 99redc5vette
Ok thanks for your feedback!!
Is there any checks once all assembled??
Should I check for shaft play w dial or wont be necessary??
You could check for backlash and coat the ring gear with an indicator paste and ckeck for gear contact patch if you wanted to. I just reassembled mine with the new parts and it turned out fantastic.

Bill
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 03:56 PM
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Ok very good. Thank you very much for your help!
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 11:25 PM
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Hey Bill or anyone for that matter.
Does this diff carrer look bad to you? You can see the score mark where my pick is. This goes all around the inside of the carrier. I am not sure if this is normal or not? If not would there be any effect on the clutch pads once its preloaded w the bevellewasher? Some other deep scratches inside in pic 2. Take a look and let me know what you guys think if this carrier is worth re-using. Thanks!


Last edited by 99redc5vette; Mar 16, 2017 at 01:03 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 08:22 AM
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 12:41 PM
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That will not effect clutch operation as the clutches do not seat there. Just make sure there isn't any erupted metal there.

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 17, 2017 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 05:22 PM
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Ya I cleaned it up pretty good and reused.
Once together last pic I posted I cannot turn the long shaft by hand. (Output shaft) I know there is alot of preload inside the carrier but I thought id be able to turn a bit, Did you notice this on your install as well?
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 99redc5vette
Ya I cleaned it up pretty good and reused.
Once together last pic I posted I cannot turn the long shaft by hand. (Output shaft) I know there is alot of preload inside the carrier but I thought id be able to turn a bit, Did you notice this on your install as well?
You should be able to pretty easily spin the ring and pinion. Its shouldnt be that difficult to rotate.

If you are trying to spin the clutches/spider gears,, thats going to be tough. YES,, Lots of preload. How much force did you have to use to get that cross pin into the gears??

Put the clutch housing short shaft in a vise and use a strap wrench to rotate the long shaft . Should take 100+ foot pounds to break it loose. A worn out one turns pretty easy.
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 09:15 PM
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I never really looked at the gauge to be honest I was to busy making sure everything was in a good spot. But the belleville spring was going down easy. Id say under 1000psi. But once I slid the shaft in between the gears then I was couldnt turn anything lol.
I will try a strap wrench but I am sure it will be OK.
Thanks again!

Last edited by 99redc5vette; Mar 17, 2017 at 09:17 PM.
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