Camber
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio texas
Camber
I am racing my c5 in autocross and am going to start doing track. I want to adjust the camber. Has anyone done this for either type of racing and if so what degree of camber did you go with. I am thinking of going to -2.5
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 208
From: Huntersville, NC
Usually, about all you can get in the front is about -2.4deg and about -1.8 in the rear with the eccentrics. You can get a bit more with a camber plate kit.Usually there are one or two washers behind the upper control arm dog bones that can be taken out to increase camber. Now, be a bit careful unless you understand how to measure and correct caster. Twisting the eccentrics without a plan and wholesale removal of washers will probably throw your caster off, particularly cross-caster(the difference between the left and right front caster). Bear in mind when you go that far changing camber, you put in well over an inch of toe-out, and you have a lot of adjusting to get it back. Finally there is steering wheel position, which has to be 100% straight up. This is affected by toe adjustment. If your steering wheel is offset the SWPS will have a signal and your TCS will process an event and take away from your speed with TCS activation..
-2.4 on the front will really wear the inside corners of the tires fast, especially if there is more than a teeny bit of toe
Now you asked what the racers do. I guess you mean the club racers. Of course they put a lot of neg camber in. Unless you are a 10/10ths driver, you may not be able to tell the difference in handling between a "milder" setting such as the Pfadt recommendations and the max to which you can adjust.
The bottom line is that it is a lot of either time, or expense to change back and forth from street to track alignments for a dual use car. So at your experience level, I would stick with a good street alignment or the Pfadt Performance-street. BUT I would try to shoot for total toe of -1/32 for tire wear if you drive to and from the track.
My settings for the track are -2.4 camber, -1/32 toe close as possible to 0 cross caster. Rear: -1.4, -1/32 (max) toe. neg sign for toe means toe in. neg camber means the bottom of the tire is tilted out. I shoot for about 7.8deg caster, but but will take any caster over 7.5 as long as both sides are the same. This is a trailered car, just for fun HPDES.
I do my own with home made tools, and it is a 4-6 hour operation to get it the way I want it. I have a 4-post lift that I do it on. Doing it on the ground is a genuine PITA.
-2.4 on the front will really wear the inside corners of the tires fast, especially if there is more than a teeny bit of toe
Now you asked what the racers do. I guess you mean the club racers. Of course they put a lot of neg camber in. Unless you are a 10/10ths driver, you may not be able to tell the difference in handling between a "milder" setting such as the Pfadt recommendations and the max to which you can adjust.
The bottom line is that it is a lot of either time, or expense to change back and forth from street to track alignments for a dual use car. So at your experience level, I would stick with a good street alignment or the Pfadt Performance-street. BUT I would try to shoot for total toe of -1/32 for tire wear if you drive to and from the track.
My settings for the track are -2.4 camber, -1/32 toe close as possible to 0 cross caster. Rear: -1.4, -1/32 (max) toe. neg sign for toe means toe in. neg camber means the bottom of the tire is tilted out. I shoot for about 7.8deg caster, but but will take any caster over 7.5 as long as both sides are the same. This is a trailered car, just for fun HPDES.
I do my own with home made tools, and it is a 4-6 hour operation to get it the way I want it. I have a 4-post lift that I do it on. Doing it on the ground is a genuine PITA.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio texas
Usually, about all you can get in the front is about -2.4deg and about -1.8 in the rear with the eccentrics. You can get a bit more with a camber plate kit.Usually there are one or two washers behind the upper control arm dog bones that can be taken out to increase camber. Now, be a bit careful unless you understand how to measure and correct caster. Twisting the eccentrics without a plan and wholesale removal of washers will probably throw your caster off, particularly cross-caster(the difference between the left and right front caster). Bear in mind when you go that far changing camber, you put in well over an inch of toe-out, and you have a lot of adjusting to get it back. Finally there is steering wheel position, which has to be 100% straight up. This is affected by toe adjustment. If your steering wheel is offset the SWPS will have a signal and your TCS will process an event and take away from your speed with TCS activation..
-2.4 on the front will really wear the inside corners of the tires fast, especially if there is more than a teeny bit of toe
Now you asked what the racers do. I guess you mean the club racers. Of course they put a lot of neg camber in. Unless you are a 10/10ths driver, you may not be able to tell the difference in handling between a "milder" setting such as the Pfadt recommendations and the max to which you can adjust.
The bottom line is that it is a lot of either time, or expense to change back and forth from street to track alignments for a dual use car. So at your experience level, I would stick with a good street alignment or the Pfadt Performance-street. BUT I would try to shoot for total toe of -1/32 for tire wear if you drive to and from the track.
My settings for the track are -2.4 camber, -1/32 toe close as possible to 0 cross caster. Rear: -1.4, -1/32 (max) toe. neg sign for toe means toe in. neg camber means the bottom of the tire is tilted out. I shoot for about 7.8deg caster, but but will take any caster over 7.5 as long as both sides are the same. This is a trailered car, just for fun HPDES.
I do my own with home made tools, and it is a 4-6 hour operation to get it the way I want it. I have a 4-post lift that I do it on. Doing it on the ground is a genuine PITA.
-2.4 on the front will really wear the inside corners of the tires fast, especially if there is more than a teeny bit of toe
Now you asked what the racers do. I guess you mean the club racers. Of course they put a lot of neg camber in. Unless you are a 10/10ths driver, you may not be able to tell the difference in handling between a "milder" setting such as the Pfadt recommendations and the max to which you can adjust.
The bottom line is that it is a lot of either time, or expense to change back and forth from street to track alignments for a dual use car. So at your experience level, I would stick with a good street alignment or the Pfadt Performance-street. BUT I would try to shoot for total toe of -1/32 for tire wear if you drive to and from the track.
My settings for the track are -2.4 camber, -1/32 toe close as possible to 0 cross caster. Rear: -1.4, -1/32 (max) toe. neg sign for toe means toe in. neg camber means the bottom of the tire is tilted out. I shoot for about 7.8deg caster, but but will take any caster over 7.5 as long as both sides are the same. This is a trailered car, just for fun HPDES.
I do my own with home made tools, and it is a 4-6 hour operation to get it the way I want it. I have a 4-post lift that I do it on. Doing it on the ground is a genuine PITA.
That's a lot of good info...Thank!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,791
Likes: 355
From: Northville, MI
The first unknown in setting camber is what class you will be running and what is the organization. If you are running a street tire class your set up will be different than running Hoosiers, race tires, etc. Running a BS Corvette I have -1.8F and -1.1R camber, 0 tie Front and -1/16 Toe Rear and the max Caster I can get was 7.2. I have traveled over 700 mile to an event and returned on 200 Street tires without noticable camber wear. When I ran Hoosiers, I was -2.2F and the rears are maxed at -1.1.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio texas
The first unknown in setting camber is what class you will be running and what is the organization. If you are running a street tire class your set up will be different than running Hoosiers, race tires, etc. Running a BS Corvette I have -1.8F and -1.1R camber, 0 tie Front and -1/16 Toe Rear and the max Caster I can get was 7.2. I have traveled over 700 mile to an event and returned on 200 Street tires without noticable camber wear. When I ran Hoosiers, I was -2.2F and the rears are maxed at -1.1.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,791
Likes: 355
From: Northville, MI
You will be running 200TW tires (Bridgestone RE71R is a better autocross tire), depending on wheel size you will probably run -1.8to -2.2 front and about -1.5 to -1.8 Rear. Wheels also have a factor on tires the BFG Rival S you can run 315/335 set up and is very common in Cam-S, the Stones run a little smaller 275/305 set up. You should contact a forum member: Lane Borg (Borg Motorsports, PO Box 2912 San Angelo, TX 76902) for more specific information on setup, sways, shocks, etc.
