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Stock Location of the mass airflow sensor or the mass airflow sensor relocated next to the throttlebody what is your opinion, when you locate the mass air sensor next to the throttlebody does it tend to lean mixture out? Big cam and heads with LT headers Thanks
Last edited by hotrod03; Apr 23, 2017 at 12:05 PM.
I have a Callaway Honker CAI and with mine, the engine ran richer - a lot richer. There is no choice with the Callaway, the MAF is placed just in front of the throttle body. It took a dyno tune to get the idle sorted out. Great product though, I wouldn't trade it for anything else.
Unless you are blown or turbo, putting the MAF in the stock location is your best option. Hopefully you ran a scan log before you put the Veraram on. If so put about another 1000 miles on the car and run another scan log. It will tell you how much it leaned out the LTFTs and if you are in need of a tune. By moving the Maf before the TB you almost always have to have it retuned to eliminate some of the lear/rich problems. Especially the decel and low rpm stumble.
Unless you are blown or turbo, putting the MAF in the stock location is your best option. Hopefully you ran a scan log before you put the Veraram on. If so put about another 1000 miles on the car and run another scan log. It will tell you how much it leaned out the LTFTs and if you are in need of a tune. By moving the Maf before the TB you almost always have to have it retuned to eliminate some of the lear/rich problems. Especially the decel and low rpm stumble.
I put mine next to the throttle body and I haven't had any problems described. Put it on about 800 miles ago, no tune, completely stock other than the Vararam.
I put mine next to the throttle body and I haven't had any problems described. Put it on about 800 miles ago, no tune, completely stock other than the Vararam.
That is for people who have not had a tune on their car. It works for most of the wrong reasons. The throttle body is a valve for the air, the valve on the engine opens no matter what, so here is the deal, the maf, or mass air flow meter, is there to tell the computer how much air has gone into the engine. At 14.7 air to fuel, you have the most fuel efficient or "stoichiometrically" best ratio, however the best hp is slightly richer at 13.2. The maf sensor will be "lazy" the closer you get to the throttle body. It is pure chemistry/physics, the closer you get to the throttle body the worse, as the throttle closes the pressure increases and it cuts fuel earlier than necessary. But this is good without a dyno tune, because the false numbers work better. With a tune the maf gets the best numbers away from the throttle body, ideally you would be the same distance as the mean value of the intake valve to the throttle body, or 10-12". That is true on a Ls or any chevy engine. After all we are dealing with 4 on 4.40" centers, half is 8.8 + intake runner height. A lot of math there at the end, but this is why in the packaging for the LS motor the maF was as far as we can get from the actual throttle body.
That was a lot of math and chemistry, and might not have answered the question. But get it as close to the air filter and not the throttle body!!!
Quote from a Master Mechanic!! Very well explained!
Normally I would say the stock location (not right next to TB), but a problem with the vararam is that it is right after a merge of 2 airstreams. Not ideal for smooth laminar flow across the MAF, but neither is butted right up against the TB (when it's mostly closed, which is most of the time). Take your pick, either will work, and with a tune will be able to tweak the MAF response curve to get your fueling calc accurate.
Normally I would say the stock location (not right next to TB), but a problem with the vararam is that it is right after a merge of 2 airstreams. Not ideal for smooth laminar flow across the MAF, but neither is butted right up against the TB (when it's mostly closed, which is most of the time). Take your pick, either will work, and with a tune will be able to tweak the MAF response curve to get your fueling calc accurate.
Yah but, lol how do u tune vararam when the car is sitting? Guess u could have a lap top in the car maybe or a huge fan
most of the tweaking required/where it changes the most is usually lower rpm/load ranges. WOT tuning is generally easier and straight forward- it will be fine.
I have the Vararam as well as the power duct and 85mm MAF.
I was able to put the MAF right after the filter cover.
I used a TR6 K&N filter that I siliconed into the cover.
Seems to act as a nice air straightener. My MAF is a non screened version.
I tuned mine (car runs MAF only) on the street and at the drag strip.
Once moving, I see ambient air temps via the IAT. The Vararam is very good for this.
Ron
Last edited by RonSSNova; Apr 25, 2017 at 03:42 AM.
I have the Vararam as well as the power duct and 85mm MAF.
I was able to put the MAF right after the filter cover.
I used a TR6 K&N filter that I siliconed into the cover.
Seems to act as a nice air straightener. My MAF is a non screened version.
I tuned mine (car runs MAF only) on the street and at the drag strip.
Once moving, I see ambient air temps via the IAT. The Vararam is very good for this.
When you are talking about a stock LS1 setup for the C5 there are several items you may or may not know. The PCM has only 96K that can be altered and the remaining 416K is hard wired programming. The airflow into the TB was engineered to accept the air movement of the according ducting and the air entering into a cylinder is subject to the opening and closing of the valves. All this was set in un-programable code. When you change the flow you change the dynamics in the engine. These changes are tolerated by the PCM by allowing the fuel trims (LTFT) to have a variance that was acceptable from Death Valley to the top of Pikes Peak. When you make changes you might be able to can run without a tune but that does not mean you have benefited from the change.