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There are tons of threads about shifter's on here and everyone gives their opinion on the best one but I was wondering if there was a good one (better than stock) that was on the cheaper side.
I didn't really want to spend hundreds of dollars on a shifter but would like to get a better one. This one seems to be on the worn out side.
You can make yours feel "new" again by replacing the bushings and realigning the shifter. That can be done for about $20-30. You could do the anti-venom mod as well to make it shift a little smoother.
$269/free ship at Amazon - occasionally drops to $180 range. Very happy with two of these. One of the few that is rubber-isolated (like the stocker and C6) for no stick chatter/vibration.
Edit: Anti-venom mod attached. Put 3-4 washers under the plug. Use these: Dorman 65277 Copper Oil Drain Plug Gasket. $4.69 for 2 on Amazon
Last edited by smartadze; May 6, 2017 at 11:11 AM.
The C5 and C6 shifter boxes are essentially the same - they made the C6 box a little smaller, but the "guts" are the same. Cheapest option is to do what Macleod52 says, then buy a 9/16" 18tpi die, and take the thread on the lever down to the insulator, then use a hacksaw to shorten the lever to taste. My major expense in this whole thing was $30+ for a new shift **** from Hurst.
The other difference is in the angle and height of the stick itself. The 6 is shorter and angled backwards, adn the **** fits your hand better as well. Much better ergonomics
The other difference is in the angle and height of the stick itself. The 6 is shorter and angled backwards, adn the **** fits your hand better as well. Much better ergonomics
Depends on how far back you have the seat. I had put a C6 shifter in mine, and I found that because of the angled lever, the shift **** came back a bit too far in the "even" gears. Pulled it out and put the cut down C5 unit back in. For me, the ergonomics are near perfect with this set up. Throws are shorter than stock, but still low effort.
Another part of of the ergonomic equation for me is muscle memory.
I also have a C7. I alternate between the two depending on weather (C5 has all season tires, C7 does not), which on has a full tank of gas, (A full tank lasts me about two weeks), and whether or not my GF had parked behind me in the driveway (dont always have time to play musical cars in the morning).
Changing between the 5 and the 7 became problematic in that the odd gears in the 5 are so much farther forward and the **** higher - I would reach for the **** and miss (because the odd gears in the 7 are farther back (and lower).
Conversely, when I switched to the 7, I'd reach for odd gears, I'd miss by going over the top.
The 6 shifter is designed more like the 7 - which resolved the over/under reach problem,and as a bonus, somewhat reduced shift effort in the 5.
I got a new Hurst short throw shifter on ebay for $125, had a $20 off code so it came to $105 delivered to my door. I have had no rattle or have ANY concerns at all. Short throw takes a little to get used to, no casual shifting like the stock unit, but I think that's the deal with the short throws.
Depends on how far back you have the seat. I had put a C6 shifter in mine, and I found that because of the angled lever, the shift **** came back a bit too far in the "even" gears. Pulled it out and put the cut down C5 unit back in. For me, the ergonomics are near perfect with this set up. Throws are shorter than stock, but still low effort.
Same... I am 5'-9" with short legs. Sitting pretty close to the steering wheel, places an upright shifter in the perfect location for me. Tilted back like a C6 shifter would be awkward.