Engine lost power and can't restart
Car is a 02 z06, just went over 50k miles. Has k&n intake and the rest is stock with the motor.
I was WOT in 4th gear at around 5200rpm, i felt a slight buck(like a fuel cut/boost cut) and I let off the throttle. Slowed down into turn one and the power kept on dropping. The car lost power and did not start again.
It threw 3 codes from the pcm after this happened.
p0101
p1514
p0343
I was at the track when this happened, 4-5 hours away from home. So, for what it was worth, I cleaned the MAF sensor and put it back on with no luck. It wasn't dirty at all.
The next day, I was able to purchase a new cmp sensor and replaced it. Again, no luck. I was lucky to run into another corvette owner, only to find out at the end he is on the forum, and he helped me determine that I have spark. The plug pulled from cyl. 1 was dry. Tested for fuel pressure by pressing on the schrader valve and fuel leaked out. I bought a fuel pressure gauge and going to test the actual fuel pressure today.
Before the the engine died, I had two codes pop up in the previous session.
c1293(does it at least once at the track, so i just pit in and restart the car)
p1575, never had this pop on before.
There was no bang, explosion, or smoke when it happened. At least the engine oil level is still good.
From what I've read online so far, i may have a snapped timing chain or it may have skipped a tooth. I don't think my cam bolts backed out, as I read a few people with cam upgrades had those issues and i haven't thouched that.
If my suspicions are correct, is there a way to diagnose the timing chain without taking everything apart? Or is there another thing that could've caused this issue?
Rob, if you're reading this post, I wanted to thank you again for your help at the track. I feel lucky to have ran into you there. I will see you soon at the track again.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-failures.html
Someone here will tell you what the codes mean.
I'd pull the valve covers, check the springs, and crank it. That will tell you if the chain is still connected. We didn't hear any clanking / banging when cranking at the track so you haven't swallowed a valve. I guess the lack of banging is also a good indication the chain didn't break. I also don't remember hearing the motor spinning fast (as if it wasn't developing compression). You could also do a quick compression test.
From looking at that one spark plug, I'm guessing its fuel related as it was completely dry.





Someone here will tell you what the codes mean.
I'd pull the valve covers, check the springs, and crank it. That will tell you if the chain is still connected. We didn't hear any clanking / banging when cranking at the track so you haven't swallowed a valve. I guess the lack of banging is also a good indication the chain didn't break. I also don't remember hearing the motor spinning fast (as if it wasn't developing compression). You could also do a quick compression test.
From looking at that one spark plug, I'm guessing its fuel related as it was completely dry.
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Chain was snapped!
edit:
Been doing a bunch of reading and searching the past few days. I still haven't taken the head off yet, so further inspection of pistons and valves will be done soon.
Starting with what I know now, what's the best replacement for the timing chain?
I've read about the ls2, c5r, the cloyes, and double rollers. I see conflicting information regarding single vs double rollers. What about the cam and crank sprockets? Get OEM replacements or are there upgrade options?
I need to confirm if my car has holes for the dampener, which one is best?
Car is 70% track 30% street car and I intend to keep it that way. With the chain being snapped off I'm going to make some upgrades.
Currently car is stock with just a k&n intake. As of today, I am certain that I will upgrade the cam and headers. I'm still researching on the camshaft, but have learned that no more than .580 lift. I'm leaning towards arh 1 3/4 headers at this point.
My primary goal is reliability and low maintanance. Then, smooth/useable power delivery at the track.
Last edited by DK83; May 13, 2017 at 10:23 PM.
Chain was snapped!
edit:
Been doing a bunch of reading and searching the past few days. I still haven't taken the head off yet, so further inspection of pistons and valves will be done soon.
Starting with what I know now, what's the best replacement for the timing chain?
I've read about the ls2, c5r, the cloyes, and double rollers. I see conflicting information regarding single vs double rollers. What about the cam and crank sprockets? Get OEM replacements or are there upgrade options?
I need to confirm if my car has holes for the dampener, which one is best?
Car is 70% track 30% street car and I intend to keep it that way. With the chain being snapped off I'm going to make some upgrades.
Currently car is stock with just a k&n intake. As of today, I am certain that I will upgrade the cam and headers. I'm still researching on the camshaft, but have learned that no more than .580 lift. I'm leaning towards arh 1 3/4 headers at this point.
My primary goal is reliability and low maintanance. Then, smooth/useable power delivery at the track.
Last edited by helga203; May 14, 2017 at 08:03 AM.





https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-no-equal.html
Looks like I found more issues though. A valve snapped on cylinder 5 and the piston is pretty toast. I guess i'm in for my very first engine rebuild! Spirits are high still, although my $$ will certainly be lower.
More things to educate myself on how I should approach this build or even consider a motor swap? Blah!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-no-equal.html
Last edited by DK83; May 14, 2017 at 04:04 PM.
The codes you have listed make me wonder if something happened to the drivers side of your engine wiring harness (heat or chaffing damage). The MAF, throttle body and CPS wiring is ran through the same loom on the left side.
I have started my engine without a MAF and it should start without a cam position sensor but I don't think it will run if it doesn't sense a throttle body.
I would think that if there is substantial mechanical damage the engine would still try to run.
Check the wiring.
Last edited by Rob 02; May 15, 2017 at 03:23 AM.
So, which damper did you end up going with?
BTW, found out my timing chain snapped. :/
The codes you have listed make me wonder if something happened to the drivers side of your engine wiring harness (heat or chaffing damage). The MAF, throttle body and CPS wiring is ran through the same loom on the left side.
I have started my engine without a MAF and it should start without a cam position sensor but I don't think it will run if it doesn't sense a throttle body.
I would think that if there is substantial mechanical damage the engine would still try to run.
Check the wiring.
I know there is a damper that will fit somewhere for the LS6 style block but I didn't have any luck sourcing one in time to finish my build. The spacing between the bolts is closer on these. I had seen threads on this forum where the stock holes were filled and re-machined. I wasn't going to go that rout since most of the people who drive the way I do don't have many timing chain issues.
It seems like you think that you broke your timing chain. If that were the case then the valves would have hit the pistons in a more catastrophic failure. You could check your compression to rule this out. If this were the case I would expect to see a different set of codes, a lot of engine noise and smoke coming out of the exhaust. I have seen cam bolts come loose but it is rare.














It's a slippery slope once you start 




