100% although we are in the minority around here
Remote Bleeder Install ...... Recommendations
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 250
Likes: 1
From: MA
Remote Bleeder Install ...... Recommendations
This is not another how to install thread. This is a "I've tried it and given up" thread.
The clutch is OK on my 2001. I do the ranger method but doesn't work great. There is always dust in the fluid. The clutch needs to be put to the floor for shifting. No leaks.
So my question. Where or to what type of service do I go to for a remote bleeder install? Without a clutch job. Who would have the tools to get in there? Stealer, corvette shop, Midas? Thx.
The clutch is OK on my 2001. I do the ranger method but doesn't work great. There is always dust in the fluid. The clutch needs to be put to the floor for shifting. No leaks.
So my question. Where or to what type of service do I go to for a remote bleeder install? Without a clutch job. Who would have the tools to get in there? Stealer, corvette shop, Midas? Thx.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,962
Likes: 254
From: Richmond, Ky
I did mine with the drivetrain intact and had to make some tools... on the bleeder line I used a cheap 1/2" box end wrench, cut it down, and cut a piece out of the box end so it could slide over the line similar to an 02 sensor socket... on the fitting that went into the slave I used a 1/4" bit socket inserted into a 1/4" deep socket and used an open end wrench on the bit socket to tighten the fitting... mine wasn't too horrible from what I remember but it's a very tight fit
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
The "ranger method" is idiotic and pointless. You need to swap out your master cylinder to address the fluid always getting dirty. And when you do swap out the master, pull apart the old one. You'll find a piston packed with black sludge that no amount of "rangering" is going to get rid of. Then with a new, clean master cylinder in there, regular fluid flushes will keep it from getting crudded up again.
edited: meant master not slave
edited: meant master not slave
Last edited by wcsinx; May 18, 2017 at 01:29 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
People would rather buy jug after jug of brake fluid and spend hours slamming away at their clutch pedal rather that the $50 and 20 minutes it takes to swap out a clutch master cylinder. 
Last edited by wcsinx; May 18, 2017 at 01:29 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,962
Likes: 254
From: Richmond, Ky
I did not know the slave could be removed without pulling the TT! 20 minutes sounds good to me, I need to take a good look at the replacement parts to get this done.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Detroit MI
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Last edited by wcsinx; May 18, 2017 at 01:28 PM.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
I replaced my MC with a Tick master cylinder. Little to no change in how quickly the clutch fluid gets dirty.
I've been using the ranger method to change my clutch fluid before each track event. The ranger method has it's obvious limits, so set your expectations accordingly. Fresh fluid helps for a while.
I've always had the issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. Tried the Tick MC, and the LPE clutch pedal return spring. No improvement. I'm pulling the motor and will do a new clutch and slave with the speed bleeder. It's the most work but it's ultimately the solution.
I've been using the ranger method to change my clutch fluid before each track event. The ranger method has it's obvious limits, so set your expectations accordingly. Fresh fluid helps for a while.
I've always had the issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. Tried the Tick MC, and the LPE clutch pedal return spring. No improvement. I'm pulling the motor and will do a new clutch and slave with the speed bleeder. It's the most work but it's ultimately the solution.