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Remote Bleeder Install ...... Recommendations

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Old 05-17-2017, 02:05 PM
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tgucc
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Default Remote Bleeder Install ...... Recommendations

This is not another how to install thread. This is a "I've tried it and given up" thread.

The clutch is OK on my 2001. I do the ranger method but doesn't work great. There is always dust in the fluid. The clutch needs to be put to the floor for shifting. No leaks.

So my question. Where or to what type of service do I go to for a remote bleeder install? Without a clutch job. Who would have the tools to get in there? Stealer, corvette shop, Midas? Thx.
Old 05-17-2017, 03:26 PM
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neutron82
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I did mine with the drivetrain intact and had to make some tools... on the bleeder line I used a cheap 1/2" box end wrench, cut it down, and cut a piece out of the box end so it could slide over the line similar to an 02 sensor socket... on the fitting that went into the slave I used a 1/4" bit socket inserted into a 1/4" deep socket and used an open end wrench on the bit socket to tighten the fitting... mine wasn't too horrible from what I remember but it's a very tight fit

Old 05-17-2017, 08:51 PM
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f6john
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Originally Posted by neutron82
I did mine with the drivetrain intact and had to make some tools... on the bleeder line I used a cheap 1/2" box end wrench, cut it down, and cut a piece out of the box end so it could slide over the line similar to an 02 sensor socket... on the fitting that went into the slave I used a 1/4" bit socket inserted into a 1/4" deep socket and used an open end wrench on the bit socket to tighten the fitting... mine wasn't too horrible from what I remember but it's a very tight fit

And where did you reach the work area from, top, bottom?
Old 05-17-2017, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by f6john
And where did you reach the work area from, top, bottom?
bottom
Old 05-18-2017, 09:05 AM
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wcsinx
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The "ranger method" is idiotic and pointless. You need to swap out your master cylinder to address the fluid always getting dirty. And when you do swap out the master, pull apart the old one. You'll find a piston packed with black sludge that no amount of "rangering" is going to get rid of. Then with a new, clean master cylinder in there, regular fluid flushes will keep it from getting crudded up again.

edited: meant master not slave

Last edited by wcsinx; 05-18-2017 at 01:29 PM.
Old 05-18-2017, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
The "ranger method" is idiotic and pointless. You need to swap out your slave cylinder to address the fluid always getting dirty. And when you do swap out the slave, pull apart the old one. You'll find a piston packed with black sludge that no amount of "rangering" is going to get rid of. Then with a new, clean slave cylinder in there, regular fluid flushes will keep it from getting crudded up again.
100% although we are in the minority around here
Old 05-18-2017, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by neutron82
100% although we are in the minority around here
People would rather buy jug after jug of brake fluid and spend hours slamming away at their clutch pedal rather that the $50 and 20 minutes it takes to swap out a clutch master cylinder.

Last edited by wcsinx; 05-18-2017 at 01:29 PM.
Old 05-18-2017, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
People would rather buy jug after jug of brake fluid and spend hours slamming away at their clutch pedal rather that the $50 and 20 minutes it takes to swap out a clutch slave cylinder.
I did not know the slave could be removed without pulling the TT! 20 minutes sounds good to me, I need to take a good look at the replacement parts to get this done.
Old 05-18-2017, 01:27 PM
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DetroitPlac
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Originally Posted by f6john
I did not know the slave could be removed without pulling the TT! 20 minutes sounds good to me, I need to take a good look at the replacement parts to get this done.
The slave cannot be swapped in 20. TT has to come out, there's no other way.
Old 05-18-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by f6john
I did not know the slave could be removed without pulling the TT! 20 minutes sounds good to me, I need to take a good look at the replacement parts to get this done.
Originally Posted by DetroitPlac
The slave cannot be swapped in 20. TT has to come out, there's no other way.
Sorry, I meant master not slave. The slave is a huge PITA to get to. The master can be swapped very easily. And the master piston is where all the gunk builds up.

Last edited by wcsinx; 05-18-2017 at 01:28 PM.
Old 05-18-2017, 03:01 PM
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I replaced my MC with a Tick master cylinder. Little to no change in how quickly the clutch fluid gets dirty.

I've been using the ranger method to change my clutch fluid before each track event. The ranger method has it's obvious limits, so set your expectations accordingly. Fresh fluid helps for a while.

I've always had the issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. Tried the Tick MC, and the LPE clutch pedal return spring. No improvement. I'm pulling the motor and will do a new clutch and slave with the speed bleeder. It's the most work but it's ultimately the solution.
Old 05-18-2017, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by f6john
I did not know the slave could be removed without pulling the TT! 20 minutes sounds good to me, I need to take a good look at the replacement parts to get this done.
I was still referring to the slave, the nastiest crud is down in that area which is why the ranger method is pointless

Originally Posted by bigmackloud
I replaced my MC with a Tick master cylinder. Little to no change in how quickly the clutch fluid gets dirty.

I've been using the ranger method to change my clutch fluid before each track event. The ranger method has it's obvious limits, so set your expectations accordingly. Fresh fluid helps for a while.

I've always had the issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor. Tried the Tick MC, and the LPE clutch pedal return spring. No improvement. I'm pulling the motor and will do a new clutch and slave with the speed bleeder. It's the most work but it's ultimately the solution.
I went through the same thing, I tried the tick master and full bleeds with expensive fluid and it didn't help... changed the clutch to a twin disc and all problems are gone and the car shifts like butter now... it sucks that they didn't make this car shift properly (if you want to drive it hard) from the factory and that it costs so much money to make it perform right but at least there is a solution

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