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When I was doing mine, Bill C said I should put so PVC silicone around it to help keep it in place and keep junk/dirt from getting inside the Eng..
When mine was assembled from the factory (see photo above#25) they only half *** covered them. They should pop into place and stay..
mike v
Thanks for the info!
With respect to the knock sensors being only "half assed covered", it shouldn't be as issue, as it appears that the only reason for the foam, is to keep dirt/debris from migrating into the "valley". Therefore, the positioning of the foam achieves this, and unless the factory A) cut the foam in larger pieces; B) cut a hole in the center of it; and C) applied the foam over the knock sensors after they and the valley cover were in place, there's no other way to achieve this. And if they did THAT, the foam would have to be removed/replaced if the sensors ever had to be replaced.
By sticking it to the manifold, it was easier/more cost effective. My only concern was that I didn't think the foam would stick and/or compress enough, if I tried to place it on the heatshield material that I had installed.
It depends. Early cars have brackets that hold fuel lines, etc., that stop you getting to the back of the engine to do anything - does not matter how small your fingers are or whether they are double (or triple) jointed. I cut the hole in the panel just above the sensor, then it's easy. You can see the thing and get at it. Of course, being an early car (1997 build date), the sensor, wiring, etc,. was about 18 years old and even removing the plug from the sensor was a major chore - could not have done it without being able to see exactly what I was doing.
RiddicZ06;
I have my intake off now for the dreaded air check valve replace.
The spaces between the ports are filthy. Also, the ports seem to have a black gummy film in them. Did you clean all of that as well as the ports? What did you use?
The area below my intake was filthy. (I looked at the pics below and I hope those were after cleaning cause that one is very clean compared to mine.)
I packed the intake ports with paper towels to keep the junk out. I used a small screwdriver to break the crud loose from around the head bolts while running a shop vac to pull the crud out. Once I had it as clean as I could get it, I used carb cleaner and paper towels to clean the gasket surfaces.
I used intake cleaner on the manifold itself and wiped out as much of the back residue as I could get. I couldn't believe how dirty the intake runners were.
I did replace all the intake gaskets before reinstalling the intake.
I agree that removing and replacing the intake is not the onerous job some make it out to be, but if it can be avoided, why not. Especially to replace a part that has a reputation of multiple failures. So to avoid having to r&r the intake I installed the relocation kit the first time the sensor failed. The sensor now lies on top of the manifold between it and the valve cover, within easy reach to be serviced if necessary. Now much like ensuring that it will not rain by taking an umbrella with you, I did this 2 years ago and the sensor has not failed since. I did use the brass sensor instead of the OEM, however.
The relocation is not required, but for me was worth the effort.
I agree that removing and replacing the intake is not the onerous job some make it out to be, but if it can be avoided, why not. Especially to replace a part that has a reputation of multiple failures. So to avoid having to r&r the intake I installed the relocation kit the first time the sensor failed. The sensor now lies on top of the manifold between it and the valve cover, within easy reach to be serviced if necessary. Now much like ensuring that it will not rain by taking an umbrella with you, I did this 2 years ago and the sensor has not failed since. I did use the brass sensor instead of the OEM, however.
The relocation is not required, but for me was worth the effort.
But now you've introduced 2 fittings and a length of tubing holding in pressurized oil. I see that as significantly more risk than the stock location of the sending unit.
And really, how many miles is everyone getting before these sensors go out? I think my car was around 85,000 mi or near enough. If I have to pull the intake 2 or 3 times in the life of the car, I don't think that's such a big deal.
I find it interesting that people will cut up their cars to save a couple hours on manifold R&R.
In my case, it's a 20 year old Chevy, worth maybe $10k. Not going to agonize over cutting into fiberglass and re-glassing it afterwards. Been doing fiberglass work since I was a teenager - it's no biggie, not like I was cutting into a Ferrari or similar.
Last edited by jackthelad; Jun 5, 2017 at 07:48 PM.
But now you've introduced 2 fittings and a length of tubing holding in pressurized oil. I see that as significantly more risk than the stock location of the sending unit.
And really, how many miles is everyone getting before these sensors go out? I think my car was around 85,000 mi or near enough. If I have to pull the intake 2 or 3 times in the life of the car, I don't think that's such a big deal.
As I said, it was worth it for me and I have had no issues. The pressure is easily held by the lines in place. But to each his own.
In my case, it's a 20 year old Chevy, worth maybe $10k. Not going to agonize over cutting into fiberglass and re-glassing it afterwards. Been doing fiberglass work since I was a teenager - it's no biggie, not like I was cutting into a Ferrari or similar.
I can have the intake off in less time than it takes you to cut a hole in the cowling.
Don't they have hole saws in your neck of the woods?
Consider that cutting through the lower cowling first involves removing the wiper arms and upper cowling. Then carefully (hopefully) measuring of the placement of the cut(s). I promise you I can pull the intake off in less time than it takes you to do the above.
Consider that cutting through the lower cowling first involves removing the wiper arms and upper cowling. Then carefully (hopefully) measuring of the placement of the cut(s). I promise you I can pull the intake off in less time than it takes you to do the above.
With less risk of accidental damage. Cracking the plastic covers on cowl or the windshield when pulling the wipers. The intake takes 10 minutes to pull.
With less risk of accidental damage. Cracking the plastic covers on cowl or the windshield when pulling the wipers. The intake takes 10 minutes to pull.
...or damaging the wiper mechanism when pulling the arms. Those suckers are a bitch to get off.
10 minutes has me beat though. My first time pulling it took about 20 minutes. I'm curious to see how fast I could do it now if I got all the right tools out beforehand.
...or damaging the wiper mechanism when pulling the arms. Those suckers are a bitch to get off. .
I used a small puller - they pop right off. How you get to the sensor is simply a choice. My car is old enough that I have no problem doing whatever to it. Back in 1997 when I took delivery, I fussed over it, but now? Not so much.
I used a small puller - they pop right off. How you get to the sensor is simply a choice. My car is old enough that I have no problem doing whatever to it. Back in 1997 when I took delivery, I fussed over it, but now? Not so much.
I think you're kind of missing my point. It's not even a case of being fussy. Trust me on this one. You're talking to a guy that has 2 chrome buttons mounted through either side of his steering wheel hub cover for the horn because I didn't feel like shelling out $80 for a replacement bag-of-goo type switch.
It takes longer to access the oil pressure sensor through the cowl. It is more work and more time not less. It is more risk not less. There is simply no rational, logical motivation for accessing the sensor in this fashion.
Consider that cutting through the lower cowling first involves removing the wiper arms and upper cowling. Then carefully (hopefully) measuring of the placement of the cut(s). I promise you I can pull the intake off in less time than it takes you to do the above.
Furthermore, if I understand correctly, in order to access the hole that you drilled in your cowl, you still have to remove the outer trim panel, correct? And if so, you have to pull the wipers, correct? That's going to take a lot more than 20-30 minutes, I'd think.....