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LUK Clutch Kit - Clocking instructions

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Old May 27, 2017 | 10:09 PM
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Default LUK Clutch Kit - Clocking instructions

Has anyone done a LUK install and knows the procedures for aligning the pressure plate/flywheel? My clutch gave out on my 01 and I'm putting a Z06 LUK clutch in it, but no instructions came with the kit to clock the pressure plate and flywheel. It's balanced differently than the original clutch that came out, with weights in different points on the flywheel and pressure plate than my original. I'm hesitant to mess with the weights, but wasn't sure if anyone else has had the same issue with these LUK replacement clutches having no instructions...
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Old May 28, 2017 | 10:13 AM
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I'm sure Bill Curlee will chime in soon, but are you able to fit the PP to the FW in multiple orientations?
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Old May 28, 2017 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by huesmann
I'm sure Bill Curlee will chime in soon, but are you able to fit the PP to the FW in multiple orientations?
This in my Son's car, we have it ready to go back together, However......the locating pins to clock the PP to the FW in one of three positions only.

So its a guess as to what location we install the the PP to the FW.

Each carries a green mark of paint, the alignment cannot be matched up relative to the green paint splotches.

We are stuck until we can get an answer....!!......We assume the two paint marks reference the install clocking but they do not line up, but we have also read the the LS1 require a balanced/matched to factory weight done by a machine shop, I have marked the weight locations from the old assembly, but we do not have a week to keep the car down to get the old vs. new balanced the same.

Quite frustrating buying a complete clutch assembly and there are not even any instructions with the kit, nothing, no tq specs, no assembly instructions period.

Just a huge guess, and its no fun pulling this out again if its wrong.

Thanks in advance



EDIT - UPDATE.

After having spent hours online looking fo any answer as to how to clock the PP in relation to the FW, we rolled the dice and clocked the green paint marks as close as possible to one another, installed everything and its smooth as silk.

I think the re balancing of the FW and PP is overblown IMHO..........just another thing to panic people about for no reason.

Buy quality parts that are ZERO BALANCED and you should be fine.

I would recommend highly the tick remote bleeder, we bled the system without it prior to installing the tunnel shield and the exhaust, but it would not have been easy to do that with the components installed.

Last edited by RidgeRunner0207; May 30, 2017 at 10:30 AM.
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