Harmonic Damper
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Harmonic Damper
At a recent Vette show, a C5 owner asked if my '04 ZO6 still had original harmonic damper. When I replied "yes," he said there are 2 kinds of GM OEM dampers that were installed on C5's....the kind that broke, & the kind that are about to...& when they do, it'll either take out your oil pan if it goes back, or your steering rack if it goes forward. He said it happens because the glue used to manufacture it dries out & the inner hub separates. He advised me to replace it asap.
Haven't had any issues...so far. No vibrations. Marked inner & outer hubs with white grease pencil awhile ago. Marks still line up.
What do you guys think? Preventative replacement??
Haven't had any issues...so far. No vibrations. Marked inner & outer hubs with white grease pencil awhile ago. Marks still line up.
What do you guys think? Preventative replacement??
#2
Leave it till its a problem. It wont take out either the oil pan or the rack if/when it goes.
#4
get out and physically inspect it from time to time and see if its walking. When you see movement or wobbling, replace it
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,261 Likes
on
1,056 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
you have 3 options the way I see it...
1- be proactive and do it now, it isn't a matter of "if" it happens but rather "when"
2- wait until you notice it wobbling and then replace it
3- take your chances and wait until it fails and also risk spending more money replacing other parts that it takes out with it such as the front cover
personally I would rather be proactive about it, there is a new balancer thread probably every week so it is a well known issue... but on the other hand when they do fail they usually give you some warning before it falls completely apart so if you keep a good enough eye on it then you will probably catch it before it gets too bad
1- be proactive and do it now, it isn't a matter of "if" it happens but rather "when"
2- wait until you notice it wobbling and then replace it
3- take your chances and wait until it fails and also risk spending more money replacing other parts that it takes out with it such as the front cover
personally I would rather be proactive about it, there is a new balancer thread probably every week so it is a well known issue... but on the other hand when they do fail they usually give you some warning before it falls completely apart so if you keep a good enough eye on it then you will probably catch it before it gets too bad
#6
I just replaced mine . What you heard is correct . It is not a matter of if ...it's a matter of when . You will probably hear the belt start to squeal before it bombs on you but why take the chance and risk damage ? My car is immaculate show quality and has only 30k on the clock but even being babied and stored in a pristine environment, it still had a balancer failure . The adhesive separates from the rubber ring and it will fail . It will fail for sure .Don't buy another gm factory balancer ! call summit and order yourself a 75$ replacement powerbond pb1117n. A new 10$ factory bolt and a 30$ new gatorback/ dayco belt . I had mine done for 300$ In labor at a local garage .its peace of mind and you won't save a thing in the end by having to call a flatbed to get your stranded car off the highway ruining your fun night out with the wife
Last edited by Lexybird; 05-31-2017 at 09:10 PM.
#7
Drifting
I just replaced mine . What you heard is correct . It is not a matter of if ...it's a matter of when . You will probably hear the belt start to squeal before it bombs on you but why take the chance and risk damage ? My car is immaculate show quality and has only 30k on the clock but even being babied and stored in a pristine environment, it still had a balancer failure . The adhesive separates from the rubber ring and it will fail . It will fail for sure .Don't buy another gm factory balancer ! call summit and order yourself a 75$ replacement powerbond pb1117n. A new 10$ factory bolt and a 30$ new gatorback/ dayco belt . I had mine done for 300$ In labor at a local garage .its peace of mind and you won't save a thing in the end by having to call a flatbed to get your stranded car off the highway ruining your fun night out with the wife
#8
Le Mans Master
I had one fail at 30k miles and another one still going fine at 70k.
On the one that failed, I heard the belt chirping at idle. When I looked, the balancer was wobbling. I put on a Powerbond and it has been good. On my other one, I just keep an eye on it. If or when it starts wobbling or any signs of failure I will replace it.
Mileage is not a good indicator and a lot of them go well over 100k without failure. However, it is a known problem that you can see a lot of reports about on the forum.
On the one that failed, I heard the belt chirping at idle. When I looked, the balancer was wobbling. I put on a Powerbond and it has been good. On my other one, I just keep an eye on it. If or when it starts wobbling or any signs of failure I will replace it.
Mileage is not a good indicator and a lot of them go well over 100k without failure. However, it is a known problem that you can see a lot of reports about on the forum.
#9
Melting Slicks
The stock HB will do one of two things, it will separate or it will walk--move forward towards the PS. If it walks that is when it might damage the PS, however the more common results is it will throw the serpentine belt and destroy your hood insulation. Those HB that separate often are cars that are heat cycled and the glue is constantly heat cycling, common on low mileage cars. Those that have the balancer move forward on the crank are often those cars that are tracked.