Don't let anyone convince you that you don't need to match balance your flywheel
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Don't let anyone convince you that you don't need to match balance your flywheel
I just had my flywheel, clutch, torque tube, hydraulics, etc. replaced. Shop didn't match balance my clutch assembly after I instructed them to. Now the motor is thrashy from 4K+. I'm trying to be reasonable but I'm pissed. I had 3 pins/weights in my old flywheel. At least I still have the old clutch assembly for reference. This is my new reality I have to deal with. Do not, and I repeat do not let anyone convince you to not match balance your clutch assembly.
Btw, I put in an LS7 clutch with a RAM flywheel.
Btw, I put in an LS7 clutch with a RAM flywheel.
#3
Burning Brakes
I am seeing to much on this topic of you don't and you do. It seems if your shop did it they should have known it was needed. Sucks they didn't do it.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
The shop did everything else correct, they just didn't match balance the clutch assembly after I specifically asked them to, and it is a buzz saw at high RPMs.
Hopefully I can get this figured out.
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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Did they check the assembly for neutral balance before installing it?
I see many posts about this but don't see people checking the assembly for neutral balance first and still getting a vibration. It seems that it's assumed what is sent is properly balanced.
I recall one responder who had a vibration and they found the assembly was not balanced when it was removed and checked.
You could try balancing it yourself. Put different weight washers onto the pressure plate bolts until you start to find the vibration improving and then tweak from there.
I see many posts about this but don't see people checking the assembly for neutral balance first and still getting a vibration. It seems that it's assumed what is sent is properly balanced.
I recall one responder who had a vibration and they found the assembly was not balanced when it was removed and checked.
You could try balancing it yourself. Put different weight washers onto the pressure plate bolts until you start to find the vibration improving and then tweak from there.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 06-17-2017 at 12:08 AM.
#7
Drifting
If you did not get it in writing it was never going to happen.
Took a suburban in to get a transmission replaced and part of deal i ask for a transmission cooler to be installed. After all work was done he wife picked up truck. I checked it out and no cooler. Took it back up and he actually said" I dont see that stated in the bill of sale anywhere you are out of luck"
Took a suburban in to get a transmission replaced and part of deal i ask for a transmission cooler to be installed. After all work was done he wife picked up truck. I checked it out and no cooler. Took it back up and he actually said" I dont see that stated in the bill of sale anywhere you are out of luck"
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Did they check the assembly for neutral balance before installing it?
I see many posts about this but don't see people checking the assembly for neutral balance first and still getting a vibration. It seems that it's assumed what is sent is properly balanced.
I recall one responder who had a vibration and they found the assembly was not balanced when it was removed and checked.
You could try balancing it yourself. Put different weight washers onto the pressure plate bolts until you start to find the vibration improving and then tweak from there.
I see many posts about this but don't see people checking the assembly for neutral balance first and still getting a vibration. It seems that it's assumed what is sent is properly balanced.
I recall one responder who had a vibration and they found the assembly was not balanced when it was removed and checked.
You could try balancing it yourself. Put different weight washers onto the pressure plate bolts until you start to find the vibration improving and then tweak from there.
I'm going to try the washer method today to see if I can make any improvement.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well I balanced it with washers.
It took 3 washers (8 grams) on one bolt and 1 washer (2.5 grams) on the adjacent. It feels pretty good. In the end I'd like to get it professionally balanced, but for now it's solid.
Thanks everyone one on this website for the washer tip! It does work if you're patient.
The white marks are where the pins were in the LS6 flywheel.
Here are the washers on the bolts.
Ghetto race ramps.
Victory Beer!
Now I just have to wait for it to cool so I can put it back together.
It took 3 washers (8 grams) on one bolt and 1 washer (2.5 grams) on the adjacent. It feels pretty good. In the end I'd like to get it professionally balanced, but for now it's solid.
Thanks everyone one on this website for the washer tip! It does work if you're patient.
The white marks are where the pins were in the LS6 flywheel.
Here are the washers on the bolts.
Ghetto race ramps.
Victory Beer!
Now I just have to wait for it to cool so I can put it back together.
Last edited by evolmotorsprt; 06-19-2017 at 04:19 PM.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
- If you're using an OE type replacement you should mark the harmonic balancer before removal, transfer any pins to the new balancer in the same positions, and reinstall the pulley in the exact same orientation as the original.
- If you are going to use an ATI, Fluidampr, etc... just install without the pins. Apparently these better dampers will take care of the imbalance. (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong)
Again, I have no experience with the harmonic balancer yet, but I will be buying a Fluidampr when I put a cam in the car.