replace crank shaft pulley, 1998 corvette
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,380
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
The one basic hurdle, is that the C-5's engine sits both low, and well back in the chassis. The steering rack is directly in front of the balancer, so job #1 is to remove the rack. This means car up on stands or other suitable, SAFE means of support, while you remove the front wheels. Also, the steering wheel has to be locked in place, when you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack.
The bolt holding the balancer in place, is tightened to a high amount of torque. Therefore, A) it's somewhat hard to remove. Some means of keeping the engine from rotating, while removing this bolt is necessary. B) It will also be necessary when installing the new bolt, to be able to keep the engine from rotating, as you tighten the new bolt.
Choice of replacements is varied, but important. Do NOT use an OE balancer, It, too, will fail over time. The Dayco/Powerbond balancer is a decent, low cost replacement. If the budget is a little heathier, ATI makes a really nice piece.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 392
From: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
It's rather involved, so hopefully, if you're going to attempt to do it yourself, you have a fair amount of automotive experience, and a fair amount of tools.
The one basic hurdle, is that the C-5's engine sits both low, and well back in the chassis. The steering rack is directly in front of the balancer, so job #1 is to remove the rack. This means car up on stands or other suitable, SAFE means of support, while you remove the front wheels. Also, the steering wheel has to be locked in place, when you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack.
The bolt holding the balancer in place, is tightened to a high amount of torque. Therefore, A) it's somewhat hard to remove. Some means of keeping the engine from rotating, while removing this bolt is necessary. B) It will also be necessary when installing the new bolt, to be able to keep the engine from rotating, as you tighten the new bolt.
Choice of replacements is varied, but important. Do NOT use an OE balancer, It, too, will fail over time. The Dayco/Powerbond balancer is a decent, low cost replacement. If the budget is a little heathier, ATI makes a really nice piece.
The one basic hurdle, is that the C-5's engine sits both low, and well back in the chassis. The steering rack is directly in front of the balancer, so job #1 is to remove the rack. This means car up on stands or other suitable, SAFE means of support, while you remove the front wheels. Also, the steering wheel has to be locked in place, when you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack.
The bolt holding the balancer in place, is tightened to a high amount of torque. Therefore, A) it's somewhat hard to remove. Some means of keeping the engine from rotating, while removing this bolt is necessary. B) It will also be necessary when installing the new bolt, to be able to keep the engine from rotating, as you tighten the new bolt.
Choice of replacements is varied, but important. Do NOT use an OE balancer, It, too, will fail over time. The Dayco/Powerbond balancer is a decent, low cost replacement. If the budget is a little heathier, ATI makes a really nice piece.
- Remove the hood
- You must remove/move the steering rack.
- Easier yet remove the radiator, power steering, water pump and Alternator.
- If you have a manual put it in 5th, Auto you will need a tool to keep the engine from moving to loosen/remove the HB bolt.
- Use a gear puller to remove the HB
- Heat the new HD in the center and install (We used the HB from Summit Racing)
- Torque (we used an "ARP" bolt) the HB to spec (I think 240 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall everything
Ok, so there are easier and shorter methods. This is one we used and so far after a year absolutely no problems. This is the general procedure we used, but research on the forms the details if you have a question.
Tools ( we had a "fairly decent set" )
- bought a large gear puller
- bought a 300 ft-lb max torque wrench
We save about $800 in labor and increased our tools and choice of parts.
Last edited by Dutch08; Jun 22, 2017 at 06:05 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Do NOT skimp on a replacement just to save a buck. I also highly recommend the Powerbond (Dayco bought them and it sells under the Dayco brand name now). They give you about 4 choices, 2 of which are the stock diameter, meaning no belt length change required after installation. I prefer their "race" series as it has extra snap ring retainers to physically block the outer ring from moving forward/backwards in case any failure of the bonding rubber in the future. NOTE: Do NOT be tempted to use the old bolt to install the new dampener! Follow the procedure outlined in the stickies and do it right
I also highly recommend using the ARP bolt that just gets directly torqued to spec and can be re-used in the future if necessary. No torque angle gauge required, etc.
Happy motoring ~
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,380
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
We just did a '98 last year. If doing it yourself and time spent is NOT a problem:
Ok, so there are easier and shorter methods. This is one we used and so far after a year absolutely no problems. This is the general procedure we used, but research on the forms the details if you have a question.
Tools ( we had a "fairly decent set" )
We save about $800 in labor and increased our tools and choice of parts.
- Remove the hood
- You must remove/move the steering rack.
- Easier yet remove the radiator, power steering, water pump and Alternator.
- If you have a manual put it in 5th, Auto you will need a tool to keep the engine from moving to loosen/remove the HB bolt.
- Use a gear puller to remove the HB
- Heat the new HD in the center and install (We used the HB from Summit Racing)
- Torque (we used an "ARP" bolt) the HB to spec (I think 240 ft-lbs)
- Reinstall everything
Ok, so there are easier and shorter methods. This is one we used and so far after a year absolutely no problems. This is the general procedure we used, but research on the forms the details if you have a question.
Tools ( we had a "fairly decent set" )
- bought a large gear puller
- bought a 300 ft-lb max torque wrench
We save about $800 in labor and increased our tools and choice of parts.
I did this job 2-3 years ago, at my "advance age", I don't remember exactly when....
Anyway, I did not remove the hood, nor the fans/radiator. Since I was going to "pin" the balancer hub, and replace the timing chain with an LS2 chain, "while I was in there", I had to also remove the water pump and front cover, to get access to the internals, then the oil pump, to get the timing chain off. My car is a 6 speed, but I opted to drop the starter, and use a flywheel locking tool.
I installed an ATI balancer and an ARP bolt. The torque value, with the ARP bolt, is 240 ft/lbs, with both the threads as well as the interface between the bolt head and washer, lubricated with ARP's assembly lubricant, per ARP's instructions.
