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I have a 99 with a 6-speed and whenever it starts to warm up it acts like it doesn't want to shift into 1st or 2nd, it will but you have to play with it a bit to get it into 1st, 2nd rarley does it. I took the center console out to adjust the shifter and I noticed the bushings were basically not there they were so bad. Could it just be the bushings or could it be the tranny fluid too or something else?
have you tried the copper washer in the trans for smoother shifting. You can use a google search for how to do it. Cheapest low buck trans mod out there.
If you are talking about the bushings where the shifter box mounts to the tunnel, you can buy replacements.
Also note, the Z06 has solid metal bushings instead of rubber.
Adjusting the shifter might help, but if you are only having trouble with 1st and 2nd and no other gears, it may just be the transmission fluid needs to be changed or some problem internal to the transmission.
By the way, the Core Shifters modified Hurst is the best I have found for a compromise between short throw and minimal shift effort.
I had it in my C5 and transferred it to my C7.
ZIP Products sells the poly replacement bushings. Also make sure that the four top bolts are tight and the shifter rod coupler bolt is tight and there is NO slop in the coupling.
I greased the lower box inner shift rod/yoke while I had access to the box. Helped out a good bit!
I was also having shifting problems, especially 1st gear with my 2000 M6 convertible, 45,000 miles, recent purchase.
I had the (probably original) trans fluid changed at the local Chevy dealer with new OEM Dexron VI synthetic fluid (about $75) and the improvement was amazing. Night and day difference shift quality improvement. Definitely worth changing manual trans fluid before doing anything else.
In my opinion the places to start on most C5s is bleeding the clutch and changing the trans fluid. If you don't have one a remote clutch bleeder, it is one of the mods you can make on a C5.
I have the Core shifter and in order to try and get rid of some of the rattling, I thought it would be a good idea to replace the mount bushings - From Zip, and also, the plastic cup bushing at the bottom of the shifter. Any one know where those can be had? I'm striking out.
TIA
Last edited by mrmagloo; Nov 16, 2017 at 05:26 PM.
In my opinion the places to start on most C5s is bleeding the clutch and changing the trans fluid. If you don't have one a remote clutch bleeder, it is one of the mods you can make on a C5.
I specifically asked about this but in my car's case, the dealer's mechanic did not recommend changing the clutch fluid. On a street driven car, if it's not leaking, and the clutch is clutching, and the pedal feels good, I see no reason to mess with the hydraulic clutch fluid. (Same with brake fluid.) If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The shifter was another matter...it was not shifting well and fresh transmission fluid resolved that issue. Relatively cheap fix, too.
Last edited by rollin59; Nov 16, 2017 at 05:56 PM.
I specifically asked about this but in my car's case, the dealer's mechanic did not recommend changing the clutch fluid. On a street driven car, if it's not leaking, and the clutch is clutching, and the pedal feels good, I see no reason to mess with the hydraulic clutch fluid. (Same with brake fluid.) If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The shifter was another matter...it was not shifting well and fresh transmission fluid resolved that issue. Relatively cheap fix, too.
I disagree and further during normal driving the clutch may feel good but run it through a couple of gears and things get less smooth. Most don't want to go through the effort of bleeding the clutch if it doesn't have a remote bleeder.
I disagree and further during normal driving the clutch may feel good but run it through a couple of gears and things get less smooth. Most don't want to go through the effort of bleeding the clutch if it doesn't have a remote bleeder.
Clutch fluid is brake fluid, and brake fluid is corrosive.
It isn't pleasant when a piston seizes up in a corroded cylinder.
Known from personal experience.
I specifically asked about this but in my car's case, the dealer's mechanic did not recommend changing the clutch fluid. On a street driven car, if it's not leaking, and the clutch is clutching, and the pedal feels good, I see no reason to mess with the hydraulic clutch fluid. (Same with brake fluid.) If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The shifter was another matter...it was not shifting well and fresh transmission fluid resolved that issue. Relatively cheap fix, too.
That dealer mechanic is TOTALY WRONG. Ive worked on hundreds of MN6/MN12 C5s and have replaced every component in the clutch hydraulic system.
Once you take an OLD OEM master cylinder apart and see all the NASTY CLUTCH MUD inside the master cyl, you will from then on be more clutch fluid attentive.
The reason the fluid gets black is its FULL of clutch dust particles that get in when the slave cylinder slides over the exposed piston in the bell housing. It turns into a black paste that gets into the master cylinder and reduces the volume of fluid it can pump.
Hey Bill, does regular flushing (i.e. bleeding some fresh fluid through the system) help keep the black paste at bay?
YES!!! Keeping the fluid clean decreases the particle count and the less particles of clutch dust the less accumulation in the system.
You will never get it all out.. If you do a complete flush down at the slave cyl you will be able to put in a complete change of fresh clean fluid. If there is already a build up somewhere in the system, its most likely there to stay.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 27, 2017 at 05:56 PM.
If your only having problems in 1st and 2nd and have changed the fluid and the problem still exists, it may have worn plastic guides on the 1-2 shift fork. They may be worn, melted or just cracked/fell off. I've rebuilt many 6 speeds at the dealer and this was a common problem.
YES!!! Keeping the fluid clean decreases the particle count and the less particles of clutch dust the less accumulation in the system.
You will never get it all out.. If you do a complete flush down at the slave cyl you will be able to put in a complete change of fresh clean fluid. If there is already a build up somewhere in the system, its most likely there to stay.
Bill
I mean running fresh fluid through the system—pouring it into the master and running it out a remote bleeder.
I mean running fresh fluid through the system—pouring it into the master and running it out a remote bleeder.
If you do a single complete system flush,,, thats as good as it gets for those components in your system. EVERY clutch stroke from that point starts the ingestion of dust into the system again.
Its a never ending loop of trying to keep the system clean.
Just flush it and see what happens At least you will know you have clean fluid.
6 speed trouble shifting
