Body control module going whacko??
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 286
Likes: 36
From: Scituate, MA
Body control module going whacko??
My C5 coupe now has 116,000 on the clock. For the first time ever I am having the right headlight 5 second grinding noise on closing. I ordered the brass gear repair kit last night to fix that. Two days ago I had the right door power window not work, until I did the slam, hold the button trick, which worked like a charm.
Prior to the grinding noise happening, I did get the headlights popping open on their own, but later did figure I had inadvertently set the twilight sentinel on. When I found that out, I reset it to off. That was the first time that I noticed the horrific grinding noise when I shut the lights off.
This a.m. I went to turn on the parking/running lights on and the headlight motors kicked in and popped the lights up, but not on. This is not according to plan! Is it possible my body module is fried? Where is it? I wonder if insects got in there, and are causing shorts....
Any ideas on this?
Best always,
Bluemill
Prior to the grinding noise happening, I did get the headlights popping open on their own, but later did figure I had inadvertently set the twilight sentinel on. When I found that out, I reset it to off. That was the first time that I noticed the horrific grinding noise when I shut the lights off.
This a.m. I went to turn on the parking/running lights on and the headlight motors kicked in and popped the lights up, but not on. This is not according to plan! Is it possible my body module is fried? Where is it? I wonder if insects got in there, and are causing shorts....
Any ideas on this?
Best always,
Bluemill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 286
Likes: 36
From: Scituate, MA
No, the tail lights, side running lights on the quarters, and the two amber DRLs all should be on but no motor kicking on the headlight doors to open. The doors should be down. After you turn the headlights on, and the doors are up, then if you switch to the parking light position, one notch down, then the headlight doors stay open but the doors stay open. That's as programmed at the factory. I'm thinking I may have a bad ground, or my BM is damp or affected somehow. I'm doing a code read at lunch time.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 286
Likes: 36
From: Scituate, MA
Ran codes- nothing there....
I ran the full scan of codes on the DIC at lunch. There were no current codes, only H's.
I disconnected the right headlight at the plug right behind the R headlight door. Then I flipped the multi function switch to parking lights, first click position. The parking lights went on, but the headlights stayed down. I clicked it again and the L headlight went up and on. This is the way it's supposed to work!
I reconnected the right headlight and did again. The first click or parking light position made the motors whir, and the doors popped up, no headlights though, turn it again to headlight notch, and the lights were on. Turned them off, then that horrific grinding noise returned for 5 seconds and stopped.
I'm hopping the new gear will do the trick!
I disconnected the right headlight at the plug right behind the R headlight door. Then I flipped the multi function switch to parking lights, first click position. The parking lights went on, but the headlights stayed down. I clicked it again and the L headlight went up and on. This is the way it's supposed to work!
I reconnected the right headlight and did again. The first click or parking light position made the motors whir, and the doors popped up, no headlights though, turn it again to headlight notch, and the lights were on. Turned them off, then that horrific grinding noise returned for 5 seconds and stopped.
I'm hopping the new gear will do the trick!
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 79
Likes: 3
Grinding noise teeth on gear skipping .. I replaced both my headlight gears lubed it with one sythetic grease .. works flawless . Get pair from eBay about 98.00 pair brass.. you don't need the bracket if the motor case metal like mine. I used some good epoxy to seal and clamp the case overnight .and install.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,246
Likes: 66
From: Middletown CT
I ran the full scan of codes on the DIC at lunch. There were no current codes, only H's.
I disconnected the right headlight at the plug right behind the R headlight door. Then I flipped the multi function switch to parking lights, first click position. The parking lights went on, but the headlights stayed down. I clicked it again and the L headlight went up and on. This is the way it's supposed to work!
I reconnected the right headlight and did again. The first click or parking light position made the motors whir, and the doors popped up, no headlights though, turn it again to headlight notch, and the lights were on. Turned them off, then that horrific grinding noise returned for 5 seconds and stopped.
I'm hopping the new gear will do the trick!
I disconnected the right headlight at the plug right behind the R headlight door. Then I flipped the multi function switch to parking lights, first click position. The parking lights went on, but the headlights stayed down. I clicked it again and the L headlight went up and on. This is the way it's supposed to work!
I reconnected the right headlight and did again. The first click or parking light position made the motors whir, and the doors popped up, no headlights though, turn it again to headlight notch, and the lights were on. Turned them off, then that horrific grinding noise returned for 5 seconds and stopped.
I'm hopping the new gear will do the trick!
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Nothing you describe is caused by the BCM. The headlights have their own controller and the headlight wiring from the headlight switch to that controller doesn't go through the BCM.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 286
Likes: 36
From: Scituate, MA
The gear kit did it....
I got the gear kit from Rodney Dickman, wow what a handle!! Great product. The machining of the big brass gear is amazing, with a super military grade tolerance. I say that as at first I couldn't get the shaft to go through the hole in the gear. Instructions said to steel wool or sand the shaft for possible rust. I was cursing Ol' Rodney for sending me the wrong part, and low and behold, the scrunge polishing did work, and that sucker did slip into the gear. DO undo the two small bolts at the top of the headlight where it hinges in order to access all the things that need to be worked on, other wise, it's not going to happen!
Followed all the steps and also looked at several YouTube vids on the subject. I'd say this is a 3 hour job if you've not done it before. Let the glue set overnight, and you'll be better off too!
Now my car works perfectly again. Now to shop for tires!
Best always,
George
Followed all the steps and also looked at several YouTube vids on the subject. I'd say this is a 3 hour job if you've not done it before. Let the glue set overnight, and you'll be better off too!
Now my car works perfectly again. Now to shop for tires!
Best always,
George