TR 224/224 112LSA with GTP heads, dual springs, hardened pushrods, dual roller SLP timing chain, LS6 intake, tuning, swain tech coated Stainless works headers. Combined with the vortex, Bassani off-road pipe, and Rt 66 exhaust with pealing oval tips.
Have to wait 3-4 weeks on the heads, which is going to kill me. The tuner I am going with also tunes and owns 2 Grand Nationals. If all goes well with the vet I have a GN that I is moded but lacking a Liquid intercooler, Howww Convienienttttt!
Anyway thanks for all the help in picking a package. What kind of MPH do you guys think is achievable with 3.42s?

Greg

 

Nice choices! I am sure you will have a fast vette after that. One question, why did you not go with the underdrive pulley?

 

CJS,
The tuner I am going with told me that if he puts an under-pulley on with a dual chain it could cause problems. He told me that the only way he can do would be a comprimise. This is one reason I picked him. He has been straight up with me thus far (not that other tuners were not). I would also be concerned about lights dimming ect, I am guessing that increasing the idle speed to 900 rmps would rememdy this. I would also be concerned about the balance of the pulley. I think GM made a good enough flywheel.

I am planning on going with a McCleod dual friction clutch. How does it compare to the Cartek, Star. Is weight an issue. My main concern (and everyone elses) is reliability, low maintainance, good perf.
Any other suggestions?

I just put Redline in my gear box and trany. How much will I need to replace lost fliuds? Also plan on changing the fuel filter.

Has any one replace the airfilter in the vortex with another type/brand filter?

Thanks
Greg


[Modified by cmeb4dk, 2:46 AM 10/2/2002]

 

The McLeod dual disk is supposed to be the best clutch out. I had mine installed with my heads/cam and after two hours of driving and babying the clutch, my ZO6 slave blew. My installer said that shouldn't happen and hasn't been a problem when installing on other peoples cars, so it was probably just a bad slave. We'll see, I get my car back again tomorrow night.

 

Nassy,
Hope all goes well tomorrow. There is a thread by Moundir, sounds like the hot new set up is a McCleod master with a 6130/402 RAM clutch.

Greg

 

Congrats on the setup! If you read over @ ls1tech.com, you can tell by the posts there that you definitely bought the hot setup! :D

Did you go with the 5.7L heads, the 5.3L truck, the 4.8L truck or the 6.0L truck heads? There are several variants of the LS1 heads, so I was curious.

What length pushrods did TR sell you?

Thanks!!

 

Nice package that is track proven. Congrats!

 

GTP heads. Speed Inc is coming up with the pushrod length. Should I consult with Thunder Racing or will the cam come with the necessary information?

Should I pay the extra $500 and keep the head core. Could this come in handy in case of a melt down?

Greg

 

Several things determine pushrod length: cam base-circle diameter, spring installed height, etc. Just curious as to whether you went w/ 7.4" or 7.350" pushrods. I'd say you'll use either one of the two.

The core could come in handy, but you'll be paying a higher core charge than what the LS1 cores are worth, IMHO. You can get cores all day long from valvegod (do a search in the parts for sale section) for less than the core.

 

WhitneyR,
Speed Inc planned on a comp 7.350 moly pushrod, but that was paired up with thier custom grind cam with .563 lift. I have since decided to go with the TR224 with .561 lift. It does not sound like the change in lift has anything to do with the pushrod length.
I am having Larry set me up with GTP heads milled for comp dual springs. Would this be a 987 spring. I know the new and redesigned 918 is supposed to be up to the task, but I feel that the extra reliability of the dual spring will give me peace of mind.

What are the pros and cons of the 7.400" vs 7.350". Since I am probably going through the bottom end, should I upgrade the rocker arms, staying with the original ratios?

In regards to the bottom end, the general concensus is that the weak link is the connecting rod bolts. Correct me if I am wrong, but these cannot be change with out going into the bottom end? I assume there are two bolts per rod. Ideally, once these are changed out could there be balance issues if the crank is not removed and balanced.
My take on the whole thing is that if we need to go into the bottom end for cr bolts I may as well swap out the cr for Lunati connecting rods. I plan on JE forged flat top pistons and a polished and balanced stock crank. Are there any performance gains to be had in the bottom end other than less wieght of moving parts and increased revs? I am hoping on getting away spending $1500 in parts on the bottom end, what will labor run. Should I replace the bearings?

Greg :chevy