When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm trying to understand more about stroking. I'm confused and it would be great if someone can share a site that explains in DETAIL all the ins and outs of 'tuning' or 'modding' an engine.
From what I understand, there are two ways to achieve a certain cubic inch displacement (CID). You can bore the hell out of the cylinders and have a short stroke, and you can leave your cylinders and have a long stroke.
Which is better for what? I don't plan on racing past 160mph so... I guess a torque curve would be best suited for me?? I dunno. Opinions? Which is more reliable? Burns less oil? I'd like to learn EVERYTHING about this subject...not just minor details :rolleyes: plz.
One big advantage of an "all bore" motor is that the cylinder head combustion chambers can be opened up to allow better flow around the valves. This is refered to as "unshrouding" the valves. If you just bore the motor you can save $2K on buying a crank but will be spending between $ 1,800-2,300 for resleeving and $ 800-1,100 for new pistons. If you go the stroker route you will probably end up buying new rods and new pistons with the new crank. No sense going that far and leaving the stock parts!
Either way you better be saving. I am just about ready to assemble a 418 motor that I have about $ 11K into it. You want to play you got to pay!! :lol:
Putting a 388 All-Bore in mine next week. Thought about putting a crank in while the engine is out but decided 388+progressive nitrous should be enough for me. ;) But the above post is correct. If you had to choose one or the other I would go all bore to help unshroud the valves.
In general increasing the stroke gives you more low-end torque (at the expense of fast revving) and increasing the bore gives you faster revving at the expense of low-end torque. Choosing one over the other requires knowing what you want to use it for. Low-end torque is pretty useful on a drag strip, but faster revving may be better for a road course.
On the other hand, there are ways of making more power without doing either of these expensive modifications ... so the next question is .. how much power do you want to make, and how deep are your pockets?
Other things being equal, a longer stroke improves power at lower RPM levels, but reduces the ability to rev, as it increases piston speed at any given RPM. A larger bore still allows higher RPM power increases. If the goal is any sort of racing use, the bore is probably the way to go. If the car is mainly a street car, higher RPM performance is likely to be less important.
In an optimal situation with optimized gearing on both sides of the fence, an all bore will dominate a similarly displaced stroker on the drag strip. Because HP is what counts.
Its hard for many people to understand that HP and TQ are not opposing or seperate things. HP defines the work ability of TQ, and how effective it is at doing work. Remember all the TQ in the world can do no work without movement (RPM), and the result of how well it does that is called HP.
HP over TQ means you can do more work in less time. (for example racing).
TQ over HP means you can do even more work, but with the sacrifice of more time. (for example, stump or trailer pulling).
With that said, a street car requires a balance of both driveablity, and practicality. This is why many like the feel and usefulness of low end TQ. But on the dragstrip where your 99% of the time at high RPM WOT, requirements are somewhat different.
HP over TQ means you can do more work in less time. (for example racing).
TQ over HP means you can do even more work, but with the sacrifice of more time. (for example, stump or trailer pulling).
With that said, a street car requires a balance of both driveablity, and practicality. This is why many like the feel and usefulness of low end TQ. But on the dragstrip where your 99% of the time at high RPM WOT, requirements are somewhat different.
Its hard for many people to understand that HP and TQ are not opposing or seperate things. HP defines the work ability of TQ, and how effective it is at doing work. Remember all the TQ in the world can do no work without movement (RPM), and the result of how well it does that is called HP.
:yesnod:
And a great example of this is a duramax
The Duramax Diesel 6600 has best-in-class power and performance with the segment's highest horsepower and peak torque ratings. Ratings are 300 horsepower @ 3,000 rpm and 520 lb-ft of torque @1,800 rpm. It's high, flat torque curve will deliver more power across the power band than any competitor, and will help Duramax Diesel 6600-equipped GM HD pickups excel in off-the-line performance, acceleration and heavy-duty trailering and hauling.
This motor would not get you very far in the 1/4... :smash:
A good place to "start" learning about tuning and moding is John Lingenfelter's book -
John Lingenfelter on Modifying Small-Block Chevy Engines. IMHO. :flag