Hey ya'll. So the transmission in my car lost 6th gear. I believe the pads broke off or wore out and now I can't engage 6th. I recently purchased a used t56 off of a gentleman who bought a wrecked c5 for the motor. I got the torque tube, the trans, and a bunch of other parts for $900. Score! Anyways, I checked the fluid and it seems fine, and turning the input shaft on the trans, running through the gears, it seems fine. However, instead of hoping for the best and just throwing this new trans in, I want to have it rebuilt. Just in case. I've been looking at having Tick Performance do the rebuild, as well as purchasing a ls7 clutch kit from them and installing that when I R^2 the trans. I already rebuilt the torque tube I got from the wrecked corvette, it wasn't bad, but better now than later. Does anybody have any feedback on Tick Performance rebuilds?

They have 3 different levels, 1 being stock, 2 being mild, 3 being extreme. Just curious to know if the other levels are worth the money? The car is my DD, and currently has 150k miles on her. I'm not looking to make a racecar out of her just yet, in a few years maybe. But for now I have to get through school so reliability is one of the biggest.

Advice is well appreciated, and if anyone knows if Tick Performance is a vendor, let me know. Thanks!

 

I have never heard any reviews other than positive about Tick. I've gotten several parts from them and always they are helpful and prompt.

I used TDP https://texasdrivetrainperformance.com/ for my last transmission rebuild, and they have a good reputation as well. TDP used to be much less expensive, but I haven't looked at the marketplace lately. Basically, you drain the old tranny of all fluids, get a bunch of cardboard, roll the tranny in the cardboard and put it is an plastic crate, zip tie the cover of the crate, ship FEDEX (I think the max weight for FDX GRND is like 105lbs). A week or so later you get it back. My last experience with TDP was the tranny out of my CTS-V The repaired unit is still working like a champ. Now the plastic crate looked like it just returned from a suicide bomber event, but the tranny was OK.

I considered TICK, but at the time, they had 3-4 program rebuilds, and TDP was more willing to tear down the tranny and fix what needed fixing, which was a horrible vibration is 6th. Since the Caddy is more of a trip car, I don't need to manage beaucoup horsepower with it.

 

Like stated above, I have not heard anything bad about TICK.

My Go To Guy for C5/C6 Drive Train repairs is RKT56 Performance.

http://www.rktperformance.com/


Call and talk to Rick Kim. He will do what ever you need from mild to wild. EXCELLENT Shop and they have been doing repairs for a LONG TIME>>

Bill

 

I re-red your post. Your car has 150k. So, maybe you spend less on this one, pound on it until it dies, saving the money you would spend on upgrades to move up later. It sounds like you have a car that is going to "teach" you a lot because things on a car this age and miles will require more TLC and trouble shooting to keep in reliable status.

Then the money you save, you use later to upgrade. Your experience keeping this one alive will help you make a wise purchase decision later.

So my advice: buy a stainless steel piggy bank, save what you don't spend, and fix what you need to fix. Unnecessary spending on big upgrades ends up in someone else's pocket.

 

I appreciate the advice. I'll be going to flight school here soon, which is 8 months long. So I want to get this fixed before starting that. Wanting to have the car as reliable as possible. I just bought the LS7 clutch kit, with everything related hydraulics wise, as well as the Tick Performance Stage 1 rebuild. I'll be having the bearings replaced on the trans as well.

Hopefully everything goes smoothly, but like most things car related, it won't, and I'll bury myself even further. The car runs good, so motor wise I'm not worried. Drivetrain definitely needs help though.

The car has been making this weird noise since I got it. It's like a rubbing/sandpaper noise. It happens in every gear but 4th and idk if it happens in reverse. I'm pretty sure it's the couplings in the torque tube gone bad. No noise when clutch is pushed in, even while moving down road. Only when in gear and accelerator is applied. When I let off the gas, you can hear the noise "jump" or "move" from one side to the other, and you can "balance" it to make it go away depending on throttle input. It's weird, I'm almost positive it's the couplings. When I remove the rubber pad/insulator on the shifter that covers the hole in the center, it gets obnoxiously loud. If anyone else has any other theories on this, let me know.

Again, thank you all for the input!

 

Could also be the pilot bearing, which is a needle bearing. BE SURE to replace this too. AND A REMOTE BLEEDER. Tick sells them and the needle bearing. You will need to rent a puller to get it out, don't use the old wet paper and punch like the old days. Since you said you are serving, THANKS! That also tells me you may not know the wet paper/punch trick, since it is usually only known by us old geezers (I'm 70) If you don't know, don't waste your time finding out.

Why don't you know if it does not happen in reverse? and what bearings on the trans are you changing that Tick isn't? (curious that's all) I would think if you have TT problems they would show up any time the car is rolling and in gear.

Did you try adjusting the shifter link rod? You could be pushing the 3-4 countergear into one or the other. and that might be your noise. Look around you will find the adjust procedure, and since you have had the console off once you are 3/4ths done.

 

I do not know the old wet paper and punch trick. I do plan on replacing the pilot bearing, as it comes in the kit and I might as well while I'm down there. I will rent that puller as well.

I'm not sure if it does it in reverse as I've never thought to listen for it. I've gotten so used to the noise. The car is loud as heck, due to it having no mufflers. I've dealt with it for as long as I could, and the noise started to bug me, and that's when I remembered that sanding noise. It's almost like a vacuum leak sound, but it significantly increases when that rubber cover is pulled up while moving, and like stated before, it changes with how much gas I give it. Clutch in, in whatever gear, doesnt' do it. As soon as I put it in gear, it does it. It's a smooth sound, it's not a tick. It's weird. I'm sure I'll discover the exact issue when I pull it all apart.

I have done the adjustment on the shifter a few times, it does not change anything.

 

I'm thinking pilot bearing. It may have worn the TT input shaft and the noise you are hearing is the clutch disc hub or edge touching the PP/flywheel. Usually when the TT goes south it is pretty noisy, though there are large bearings in it as well. That little pilot bearing can give rise to vibration, noise, and clutch operation issues.

 

Here is a link to the noise.
https://youtu.be/cQDq9bOcvvM
https://youtu.be/qSvLTBEOkCk

 

.....

 

WHAT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, is the "old wet paper and punch trick."

I hope it not a method of popping out the pilot bearing!

Our pilot bearings MUST be EXTRACTED with an INSIDE PULLER!!

The Crank is hollow and there is a WELSH plug in the end of the crank (behind the pilot brg) that keeps the oil inside the engine. If you pop that plug out or push it into the engine, you will have a real MESS on your hands (well, on the floor!!!) after you start the engine for the first time after the bearing replacement.

 

I definitely plan on using a pulled. Has anyone else seen the videos and heard the sanding/sliding/whooshing noise? It's kinda hard to hear with the exhaust drone but it's there.

 

I would pull the torque tube and take a look in side and at the pilot bearing, before sending the T56 off to be rebuilt. If it is a stock 150k mile torque tube I would replace the couplers and bearings. If they are not needing replacing now they most likely will soon. If you have a pre '01 car I would upgrade to the later version if you are planning on upping the power level.

How many miles are on the torque tube? What year is the torque tube?

I have a Tick master, throwout bearing spacer, and discussed buying a cam from them. Tick's tech support and customer service has always been great. If I needed an engine or trans rebuilt, they would certainly be in the discussion.

 

I apologize. If I didn't say it earlier, I'll explain. I bought a used trans and torque tube off of a wrecked c5. That torque tube and trans has roughly 121k on it. I rebuilt the torque tube already, replacing the couplers. Only one bearing seemed messed up, so I replaced that one. The other 2 are original and spin good without binding or play.

So torque tube will be replaced with a refurbished one. But being my daily driver, I didn't want the car being down for weeks. So I sent the spare trans in to Tick to get rebuilt. Hopefully when I get it back, it won't take long to replace. I've read Dope' s clutch replacement write up about 16 times now so I should be good.

I'll be installing:
Tick adjustable clutch master cylinder
tick remote speed bleeder
Gm Clutch slave cylinder
tick slave cylinder shims
Gm throw out bearing
Gm pilot bearing
Gm ls7 clutch
Gm ls7 flywheel
Arp flywheel and pressure plate bolts
torque tube rebuilt couplers, 1 new bearing
Tick rebuilt stage 1 trans (upgrading to steel 3-4 fork and bronze fork pads)

 

Ok think I have it. I have had the trans/torque tube out on my car a couple of times, and a few friends' cars as well. A transmission jack is a life saver. Space the jack stands out as far as possible as you don't want the car to tip when all the weight comes out of the back, and get a friend or 2 over to help.

 

Right. However, I'll be using a 2 post lift, as Beale has a diy auto hobby shop where you can rent a lift for $5 an hour with no overnight fees. Score!

 

Cheater Good luck and keep us updated

 

you know, if it was mine, I would have the rear seal cover and a new rear main seal on hand so you aren't sourcing parts at midnite and 5 beers into the job. They come as an assembly with the crank seal already pressed into the cover. It sucks to go that deep and find an oil leak. Keep packaged and return if you don't need. BUT if it ain't leaking, don't take that cover off (i.e., leave a sleeping dog lie). If you want to be brave and just replace the crank seal, then the cover should come off to press the old out and the new in. Then you can center the seal on the crank.

There is an old service bulletin about LS engines leaking around the seal cover in the back. I don't have the number but a little googling about ls engine oil leaks will produce it. It is a simple fix, I usually use a little BONDO, but the TSB calls for RTV to fill the pores.

the throwout bearing is generally integral with the slave, so you don't need another

Finally, if you have to remove the top half of the bell housing, you may have to lower the engine cradle just a bit. Don't use an impact gun on ANY of the Cradle-to-frame bolts. Not as big a deal for the engine cradle, but the thru-the frame bolts just have a little pop rivet for anti rotation,and what sucks is you will have to cut a hole in the trunk to get to the head of the bolts for the drivetrain cradle.

You can drop the drivetrain without breaking any of the brake line connections, but go slow so you don't leave a brake line in one of the plastic clips, you can put a bad kink in a brake line, and you can't buy replacement lines.

Ditto for when you lower the drivetrain. Make sure you put a big a$$ drywall mud knife between the shifter box and the brake lines in the tunnel. If you kink those lines bad enough, you might compromise their integrity to hold brake pressure.

 

I haven't had to loosen the cradle but it might be a possibility. You can also get to the the upper bellhousing bolts from the top with the intake off. I would have to read the how to you reference, I would pull the intake and oil pressure sensor. The buick remote oil pressure sensor mod is a worthwhile investment .

 

Almost forgot, there is a clip that holds the big wiring harness to the bellhousing. the bolt is on the passenger side, and putting the bellhousing back in, remember to make sure that harness is clear when you bolt up the BH and you get that one bolt in thru the hole. That wire harness wants to go in that gap as you close it.

Speaking of electrical, make sure you get all of them disconnected from the trans.