So I'm 40, love long walks n breezy npcool bites.... OH Wait wrong forum... SRY....lol yep I'm a dork. So I own a 1997 Vette Fairway green minor mods, cold air intake, exhaust not much more. I'm here in need of info she's running warmer the reg. So I hitting the threads n gathering info. Thanks for having me guys/ladies.

 

Welcome but I'm going to move this over to the C5 Tech section for an answer to your coolant temp issue. Just a suggestion - more info on exactly what temps you are experiencing and other pertinent info would help with an answer.

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Welcome to CF not POF (singles site for those married folk) Sharp color on a gorgeous C5. Should have no problem hooking a hot one with this rig. PS the chick magnet is under the seat in a grey bag. Keep it to your self. Wishing you many happy miles and smiles with your new baby. Greetings, Rob

 

Nicely curated ride, I always like green cars, provided the selected shade has some zip, and your car looks great.

Some cultures think colors influence life, and you will see a lot of green cars for money, white cars for luck with those folk.

I am not feeling that, but thought it interesting enough to repeat. I do know red is for speeding tickets, according to those who have sworn off that color.

My car is black, and blew the radiator a while ago, the plastic top split somewhere around 80,000 ?. A used car , in reasonable shape, my temps went down about five degrees with the new part. My cooling system is stock. This information probably has no relation to your needs, but at least you know where you can loose a few degrees .

 

Im sorry, I really just meant to introduce myself but i went a little further

 

Rare color you got there...

Welcome to the asylum...

 

OP I assume by running warmer you mean the coolant?
By how much?

1st place to check is the radiator area - probably all jammed up with debris blocking the airflow - common issue with these bottom feeding sharks...
I've read on here where guys have found those plastic food store bags up there
Also, same and smaller debris can get in the radiator fins (?) - got compressed air - blow it out...

 

Well the oil temp used to stay around 198-205 now after not driving her for almost a month or lil more, it likes to go to 225 n maybe higher i havent driven it to far as in fear of overheating. Now it did take over 45 min of around town driving to get up there. But the first time i jumped on her she jumped from 217 to 222 in a second. I did plan on doing is putting her on the lift to see if maybe the radiator has some clogging going on. Just gotta wait till the weekend because of work Hopefully quick fix, i do have compressed air Great Idea!!

 

Just saying hi. Welcome to the CF!

 

These cars do run hot. I was surprised to hear that 220-230 is fine. I think the fans don't come on until 230.

Throw in a 160 stat see how it is. If its still getting hot check the overflow for any cracks, check that the cap is sealing, check that the system is holding pressure. Burp the system.

 

If I may comment on your advice, it might be more correct to say these cars have a designed 220-230 operating temperature , Running hot suggests this as a problem, as does the suggestion of needing a different thermostat on a stock system.

My suggestion is not meant to be quarrelsome, I have a reason. I see the original design as a type of insurance against sudden pain in the wallet. I mean, if it were to other way, that a car generated money , I think people would be slower to play around with the unknown long term results of any design change. So any suggestion of a stock system needing a different operating temperature, a critical system design change, causes me to blindly lash out as I wipe away tears, in mild keyboard rage.

My thinking was greatly influenced by my meetings with chief engineers on ships. All around the rooms were always the operating manuals for the various systems they controlled , and the books called the shots. These were highly trained professionals with advanced degrees and long seafaring experience . Yet they just used the original operating procedures. They didn't monkey around with stuff just because they could.

I post for information to the new owner, the other side of the coin. My position is supported by one of the C5 design engineers who posts here.
The engine was durability tested to go 200,000 miles in stock condition. Any change away from the tested condition will yield different results.

I know with the newer engines, they had to redesign the engine, as the operating temperatures changed the clearances and the titanium parts were getting ground down. Back to the drawing board. As it is now, they have to be assembled with clean conditions, even residual oil from the skin will distort the surfaces enough to cause damage from uneven heat expansion.

I know the C5 engine was just the first step in the newer designs, but it also uses dissimilar materials with different thermal expansion properties. So I don't play around with the heat ranges. I don't have the skill to design a cooing system , so logically couldn't reasonably suggest or understand any design change. For the longest time, I didn't even know about flash points, and thought the coolant stayed liquid throughout the system.

 

With that being said, the engineers designed the fans to kick on at 226 or whatever temperature so I'm guessing the engineers wanted to keep engine temps below that point. So you would actually be working within the designed parameters to keep the car below the fan operating temp.
OP you may have debris stuck to/in/in between your radiator and a/c condenser. Do a forum search.

 

Welcome to the Forum!
The several recommendations to check for blockages to the flow of air is a great start. It is really easy to pick up debris that will start blocking air from flowing through the radiator. You didn't mention it, but assuming you've already checked the level in your radiator.
Hopefully this will be just debris and a simple fix for you.