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Old Jul 31, 2017 | 10:13 PM
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Hello, 2003 Z 06. Yesterday on FWY. Motor started hesitating, oil temp on DIC read "LOW" Pulled off, pulled codes ,no codes, either "H" or "C" Got back on road. hesitated a few more times, Then ran fine. DIC. still showed oil temp "LOW" all other gauges normal. Few hours later on way oil temp showed normal again. Then it hesitated few more times and noticed water temp and DIC oil temp would jump around at same time. Then ran perfect all the way home 200 miles or so . Oil temp was on "LOW" the whole way. This morning , turned key on and was back to normal again. Just replaced coolant temp sensor few weeks ago . New battery couple weeks ago. Have cleaned the connectors in driver`s door. Connector to oil temp sensor is on tight. Cleaned the big ground connector by driver`s side headlight. Does it sound like the oil temp sensor is bad? or? Thanks in advance! D.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 10:22 AM
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HELLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Mr Wilson... The old Dennis the Menes greeting LOL!

You could have a bad female connection on the oil temp sensor. You could still have a BAD door connector power plug. Cleaning it does NOTHING to alleviate the poor connection problems that are very common!

You MUST examine the FEMALE pins and see if ANY of them are SPREAD APART. If they are spread apart the loose connection between the male & female pins cause the serial data buss to corrupt and when that happens, ALL sorts of crazy stuff happens.

You reported issues on TWO separate gages. Kind of points to the serial data buss issue.

The best way to tell if you have a female pin issue is to do a PUSH PULL test using a spare male pin. Insert it and see if there is a good grip on the male pin when its inserted.


Check the condition of the FEMALE pins in the door POWER CONNECTOR and see if any of them are damaged (spread apart). Also check the female pins in the oil temp sensor.

Bill

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 1, 2017 at 10:36 AM.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
HELLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Mr Wilson... The old Dennis the Menes greeting LOL!

You could have a bad female connection on the oil temp sensor. You could still have a BAD door connector power plug. Cleaning it does NOTHING to alleviate the poor connection problems that are very common!

You MUST examine the FEMALE pins and see if ANY of them are SPREAD APART. If they are spread apart the loose connection between the male & female pins cause the serial data buss to corrupt and when that happens, ALL sorts of crazy stuff happens.

You reported issues on TWO separate gages. Kind of points to the serial data buss issue.

The best way to tell if you have a female pin issue is to do a PUSH PULL test using a spare male pin. Insert it and see if there is a good grip on the male pin when its inserted.


Check the condition of the FEMALE pins in the door POWER CONNECTOR and see if any of them are damaged (spread apart). Also check the female pins in the oil temp sensor.

Bill
Thanks Bill! I am going to check the door plugs again today. I didn`t really check the tightness of them last time. I had a problem 5-6 years ago with all gauges going nuts and that fixed it til now. Thanks again!! Mr. Wilson. Next door.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis Wilson
Thanks Bill! I am going to check the door plugs again today. I didn`t really check the tightness of them last time. I had a problem 5-6 years ago with all gauges going nuts and that fixed it til now. Thanks again!! Mr. Wilson. Next door.
So, I took apart both side door connectors and checked them , cleaned them. now the pass door works (window) etc. But nothing works on the drivers side. Had the connectors apart many times, it would work until I put them back where they go and put the acc. boots back on place, then left door quit working . pulled and cleared all codes, one hvac would not clear. and has message LDCM no comm. Car starts and all gauges work. Got frustrated for today. Thanks for any suggestions!
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis Wilson
So, I took apart both side door connectors and checked them , cleaned them. now the pass door works (window) etc. But nothing works on the drivers side. Had the connectors apart many times, it would work until I put them back where they go and put the acc. boots back on place, then left door quit working . pulled and cleared all codes, one hvac would not clear. and has message LDCM no comm. Car starts and all gauges work. Got frustrated for today. Thanks for any suggestions!
Maybe it could be one of the door control module fuses blown ?? #33 &34. Will check them tomorrow. D.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis Wilson
Maybe it could be one of the door control module fuses blown ?? #33 &34. Will check them tomorrow. D.
Blown fuse LDCM. All seems well now.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 04:27 PM
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Well DONE!
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Old Aug 4, 2017 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Well DONE!
Bill, Do you think I should replace the oil temp sensor anyway? Going to change oil soon. looks easier with oil filter off. Thanks for your help! D.
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Old Aug 4, 2017 | 02:21 PM
  #9  
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Just picked up the oil temp. sensor, It is the exact same part# as the coolant temp sensor. Learn something new every day!
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Old Aug 4, 2017 | 09:55 PM
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SENSORS.... They tell the PCM engine data. If the data that they send is GARBAGE, you get garbage performance and efficiency.

I have tuning software (EFI LIVE) and and an ACTRON SCANNER. The sanner and the tuning software can tell me what the sensors are doing Key ON engine OFF & Key On Engine Running.

With Key on engine off, all of the temp sensors should be reading close to ambiant air or surface temps. Other sensors have a specified range of outputs when the engine is not running..

They should also match what you see on the IPC when you pull up each sensor. Its a good sanity / truth check. See several sensors on different cars that were significantly off of true temps and output data..

If you read the coolant and or oil temp sensors and they are reading something other than what is expected,, they should be replaced.
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