Hello, I have a 2002 C5 and a few months ago it just randomly started stalling. It might fire right back up or it might not. It's happened going down the road at 70MPH and just pulling out of a parking space. Before it stalled the instrument panel will blink of and that's it the engine dies. I get PCM code P0171 and P0174 also TCS code U1016. The PCM codes refer to cold air intake or lean and I doubt that would cause the engine to stall. The U1016 is loss of communication to PCM and I wonder if that is the issue?? While it generally fires right back up sometime it is a bit stubborn and I might need to lightly touch the gas pedal and feather it a bit to get it going??? Don't want to just throw parts at it so looking for some ideas.
Thanks

 

Maf

 

If you see attached Pdf document these codes is related to a lean or rich fuel conditions . This can be caused by several reasons , see attached document

 

Checking the grounds will be the first thing. I suspected that but did not know there was one on each head.

Sensors will be the next thing.

 

I have my suspicions but,,, I HATE to just blame it on SOMETHING without a little more info.

Like 8VETTE7 recommended, READ those DTCs the very next time that it ***** its self and read them WITHOUT turning the ignition switch off. IF, you have MESSAGES in the DIC, just keep pressing RESET until they go away and you can pull up the DTCs.

The DTCs that are displayed during that GLITCH will be VERY IMPORTANT for diagnosis.

IF,,, there are not any DTCs or the ones listed are not really related to the engine stalling, you could have a bad ignition switch.

YES. the CRANK SENSOR can and will cause this but, like it was stated above, lets do the DTC exam before we empty the parts store and the wallet.

PS...

Its important to CLEAR ALL of the DTCs that are displayed in the DIC now before the issue happens again. That way all the DTCs will FRESH and relevant to the issue.

Bill

 

 

Time to start investigating. Open hood listen to any abnormal sounds ticking under valve covers a loose Rocker would indicate the engine stumbling etc etc. Like the others have said check for vacuum leaks and ground connections loose or corrotted wires.

 

 

So far nothing has worked. Ground connection good, sensor check out, changed the fuel filter/regulator as well. No check engine light?? I have noticed that early in the day it will crank but not start. Come back in the evening when it's hot (85 +) and it starts??

 

NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT..... That tells us nothing... Did you read the DTC using the DIC?

That is a MUST DO before we can get much further.

You either have a serial data buss issue OR an ignition switch issue.

Either way, you need to read and post any DTCs using the DIC!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!






Bill

 

How old is your battery?

Have you check it's voltage using a voltmeter?

Check to make sure the terminal are tight? 11 ft lbs is the spec.

 

Battery is new and tight,


Codes
10-PCM no codes
28-TCS C1247 H
40-BCM no codes
58-SDM no codes
60-IPC U1088 H
80-radio no codes
AO LDCM B2282 H
B2284 H
U1255 H
U1064 H
U1096 H
U1016 H
AI RDCM B2283 H
B2285 H
U1016 H
U1964 H
BO RFA no codes

 

You most likely have a serial data buss issue caused by a shitty connection in the LDCM and or RDCM module six pin power connector.

It can cause havoic by making the module output GARBAGE on the serial data buss.

Bil

 

I just got my 2001 C5 Coupe back on the road after 3 down weeks. It was dying/ Not starting, and throwing a bunch of communication codes between modules.

It was the ignition switch. $70 and took about an hour. I did it before module replacement purely based on cost and common sense, i guess. I got lucky!

Its worth looking into. Good luck