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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 03:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Scholioso
Ok, awesome. My clutch is right around your mileage as well, so I'm thinking the same thing since I'm replacing the torque tube and trans. So I should probably replace the clutch too. So the difference you measured doesn't matter at all? It's kinda hard to see where the decimal is and whether you're in inches or cm.


I apologize for all the questions, I just can't afford to have the car down for too long. You said you don't notice it being that much heavier? How is shifting? I'm still debating on whether or not I should get the aluminum flywheel. If you had to do it again, would you?


Again, thank you all for your patience.
no. the difference IS what your looking for. if your new clutch is .050 or more thinner than the old one i would shim it.

everything feels normal. i wouldn't do it any other way. gains from the aluminum flywheel aren't worth the money for me.

my measurements weree 3.145, 3.155

Last edited by HPS MASTER TECH; Aug 9, 2017 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 03:52 PM
  #22  
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Oh yeah, forgot; are y'all balance matching new and old FW/PPs?
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 12:42 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TPFKATK
Oh yeah, forgot; are y'all balance matching new and old FW/PPs?
You're talking about mirroring the balance weights of the old flywheel and pressure plate onto the new ones? Like a copy and paste sorta thing right? My concern with that is nothing is ever the same. Relatively/close but not super accurate.

Speaking of which, getting myself off topic. Do y'all balance torque tubes after replacing the couplers? I went with Dorman couplers, which didn't have arrows in which the bolts should go. Smooth all around. Does this matter? Let me know, thanks!
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:44 AM
  #24  
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There are many posts concerning match balancing the new assembled flywheel and pressure plate to the old as that is how the engine is internally balanced. Some do it, others don't. Of those who don't some have problems with vibrations others don't.

I hope this thread gets some feedback from owners who have installed dorman couplers. Most people say they are crap. I think there are BMW couplers that also fit?
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 12:45 AM
  #25  
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From what I've read, they aren't great. However, if they last another 150k, I'll be happy. While they aren't poly couplers, those were $200 on tick' s website. Dear lord! So I went with Dorman. As I've said, I'm not pushing crazy horses, car is stock, just a fun daily. Hence why I'm looking for a cheap clutch replacement too. So I got the tick clutch kit in today. Going to send it back. But going to order the 04-905 off Amazon and directly compare the too, see how the match up or not. See if it's the exact same. The ls7 clutch I got from tick says LuK right on it! Haha
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Old Aug 25, 2017 | 01:09 AM
  #26  
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So I got everything removed and I marked my old flywheel position, bolts, everything. This is my first clutch change. I don't believe they are supposed to look like that.

Also, all the bolts around the outside had a flat spot towards the clutch disk. Is that normal? Like the clutch disk was hitting or rubbing on the bolts.

Rear main seal leaking. I did find that my very first rubber coupler was absolutely destroyed.




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Old Aug 25, 2017 | 09:36 AM
  #27  
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Do you ride the clutch much when you drive?
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Old Aug 25, 2017 | 10:23 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by huesmann
Do you ride the clutch much when you drive?
Nope. Left foot goes to deadpedal when not shifting.
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