cammotion perf

Yes, with the roller rockers, I would go with our VSK143311 valve spring kit. It has some added spring pressure.

Let me know if you have any other question. Just email me: Steven at CamMotion.com

corvet786c

In my opinion, I would not get bronze valve stems on those heads, get the standard metal, they will last longer. The bronze are for racing but intended for removing the heads more often for replacement. I read an article in GM high tech performance magazine. Also use dual valve springs for your set up.

No matter what anyone says make sure you measure for proper pushrod length. To get the best out of your setup.

I also use stock rockers with Brian Tooley trunion kit works great for my procharged setup. Had it already for 2 yrs no problems so far. I am pushing over 500 to the wheels in an A4

vettenuts

I, like you, was going for a reliable setup. I have the AFR 205's that Tony worked on the chambers to unshroud the intake valve.

Springs: I would definitely upgrade to the AFR 8019 valve springs. They will drop right in and are an excellent reliable spring. I have never heard of one failing. If you go to different springs, be careful as I believe the valves in the AFR heads are taller so you might end up with a lot of shims or a very low spring seat force. Tread carefully here unless you are getting information from either AFR or Tony Mamo. There have been several people who have installed aftermarket springs on AFR heads and then complained about issues not realizing that the heads are set up differently than a GM head.

Pushrods: You want the stiffest pushrod you can get. Weight on this side of the rocker is not and issue. The straight 3/8" pushrods will not fit. This is why I ran the 3/8" double taper Trend pushrods. You can read about them here. Despite what everyone "thinks", 5/16" pushrods just don't cut the mustard. This is one place that is critical as pushrod flex will bounce the valve and the lifter and IMO many of the lifter/cam issues seen on many of the boards is due to pushrod flex. Crane demonstrated this years ago in an LS1 motor using high speed photography. Pushrod flex won't show itself until miles down the road when parts are worn and fail.

Rockers: The Gen III Yella Terra rockers are good pieces and can be set up with a very narrow wipe pattern to minimize valve guide wear. I got my wipe width down to 0.045" taking my time on the workbench. Then I ordered shims from McMaster-Carr. It is critical to set the rockers up prior to measuring for pushrods as due to the taller valves in the AFR heads, I needed a 0.125" shim to get the correct geometry. You can read about that here. The TSP rockers look like interesting pieces, but if it were my car I would be concerned about being one of the first to install them. That's just me but I prefer to let others do the road testing and tend to error on the side of caution. Nothing against TSP, I applaud their development of a steel rocker and they look like they will be a stellar piece. Jesel has a high end steel rocker but the pricing is out of sight.

Timing chain: The two most critical parts with a timing chain is the harmonic damper and the timing chain damper. Make sure to install the timing chain damper. If your block isn't drilled, use the Trick Flow version. There was a lot of work done when the LS1 first came out on harmonic dampers. If you read any of Kurt Urban's posts on the subject, he recommends ATI or the stock GM. Not saying there aren't others that are good, just haven't seen any data to back them up. Avoid ASP if they are even still made, they were the source of many timing chain failures. As for the timing setup itself, I would recommend the Cloyes Hex-adjust and degree the cam when you install it.

Cam Retaining Plate: Get the aftermarket version that retains the hex head bolts. The new GM piece uses taper screws and there have been some instance of cracking near the bolts. Also, the new GM plate uses different screws and torque values so beware.

vettenuts

Didn't catch you plan to run a stock cam for a while. The 8017 springs will handle the stock cam, however if you plan on a cam in the future and to change the springs, I would still go with the AFR 8019 springs. They won't hurt the stock cam.

Note that you may need to change the pushrods again when you do the cam.

romandian

do you think its absolutely safe to put 9018 springs on a stock engine? they are 155 lbs seat and 425 rate, probably double of stock. wont wipe out lobes, collapse lifters, breake chain etc.?

cv67

so many overlook this...leads to threads about valvetrain noise, doesnt make enough power etc. Do it right, and remember to gear the car for what the cam wants not what you want to cruise at otherwise youll hate it. Its a pkg from front to rear.
may need to change driving habits too if one is a chronic "lugger" dont cam your car.

Cams that are stable at high rpm long term is preferrable over some crazy fast ramp...so you give up a couple lbs down low so what youll never feel it

vettenuts

Absolutely not, they will not control the valves in AFR heads.

93Polo

Agreed, if you were on stock heads, stock valves I would say yes the springs would be fine with stock cam. lifters, and rockers.

However, I would upgrade at minimum to an aftermarket 5/16 push rod ~$100 new if you do replace the springs. Forced induction guys have been known to upgrade springs, and pushrods on a stock cam.

Back before the LS aftermarket was so extensive plenty of guys did cams with OEM lifters, and plenty still use LS7 lifters.