SuperC

Hi everyone. I have owned my 97 c5 for about 6 months before I started having problems. About a month ago my horn would go off at random times so I had to pull the horn fuse. Since I have owned it, the battery drains over the course of a day or so if the battery terminals are left in place. So i pull the negative ground terminal every day i get done driving it. I also noticed the radio clock stays on even when you take the key out. A couple weeks ago I started getting the security light on and the car will start but it dies at 2mph in both directions. I get the pull key for ten seconds message and I have tried everything and eventually it works and I can drive the car. I think I did it too much and now the key won't come out of the ignition without pulling hard. When turning the key it is inconsistant whether the accessories turn on, everything turns off or it tries to start. It will start eventually with some combo of disconnecting the battery and pulling the key out and reinserting 10-20 times. Is this an ignition switch problem or the tumbler or both? Can I swap the tumbler and key or will the pcm or bcm need reprogrammed?

SuperC

Even when I get it to start and drive the light for security stays illuminated.

Bill Curlee

Problem summed up and explained very nicely!

If I were you I would have a local locksmith rekey the NEW tumbler to match your old key.

I would also install a NEW Ignition Switch as it can be the ROOT cause of NUMEROUS electrical issues.

Do you know how to read and post your own DTCs?

PLEASE make the above checks and repairs and have your battery FULLY charged and tested at a local auto parts store.

Then conduct a battery current draw test and report the current draw after security/sleep shutdown.

BC

SuperC

[QUOTE=Bill Curlee;1595416409]Problem summed up and explained very nicely!

If I were you I would have a local locksmith rekey the NEW tumbler to match your old key.

I would also install a NEW Ignition Switch as it can be the ROOT cause of NUMEROUS electrical issues.

Do you know how to read and post your own DTCs?

I don't have a second person to help me do the voltage test but I did pull the codes and there are a ton

10 pcm p0601HC P1518 HC
28 tcs c1241HC c1255H c1276HC c1278H c1281H c1286HC
38 rtd no comm
40 bcm b0432HC B0503H B0508H b2527 HC B2593H B2722H B2723H U1016H U1096H U1040H
Ao-LDCM B2282H B2284H U1064H
A1-RDCM B2283H B2285H B2273Hb2275H b2277H b2279H u1255H u1064H U1016H U1096H
B0-RFA U1255H C2100H c2105H C2120H

I cleared them all and then I replaced the ignition switch and now the accessories work correctly but the security light flashes/beeps when in the on position and eventually goes solid on.

I rechecked the codes and got these:


10pcm p1518HC p0601HC p1621HC
28 tcs c1241HC c1276HC
38 rtd no comm
40 bcm b2527HC b2721HC


when I try to start the car, everything goes off except the check engine light. Nothing happens. Then I get the messages reduced engine power, service traction, service abs. Oh and the take key oiut and wait 10 seconds message is gone for good. One win I guess

I am so very lost and disappointed.

Bill Curlee

[QUOTE=SuperC;1595482287]Try and clear the DTCs again.

Are you POSITIVE that your battery is 100% charged and in good condition???
If it were me, I would have it tested to see if it can support your cars electrical needs.

Once you have it back in the car and properly connected,, CLEAR ALL THE DTCs and then report what comes back.

Bill

Bill Curlee

Some of those DTCs can be or are power related. When you attach the battery cables, HOW tight do you torque the battery cable bolt on to the battery terminals????????

Before you remove the battery, put the beter directly on the battery terminals and have someone load down the battery LIGHT ON HIGH, FAN ON HIGH ect.... See what taht does to the bttery voltage output measured on the terminals.

Bill

SuperC

I took the battery down and swapped it out for a brand new one. The cable ends looked good and I bought brand new leads. I didn't see any damage to the wires. I hooked up the ends nice and tight. With all the accessories on and fan on high I was measuring 12.3 volts at the battery.

when I had someone crank the engine the voltage would drop to 5 or 7 volts and then bo uncle back after it wasn't being cranked. I am still getting all the same DTC codes and when I clear them they just keep coming back. I checked every fuse I could find.

could it be the starter? Update I replaced the starter and still nothing. It won't even try to turn over. How do I test the relay?