Flywheel Balancing
They tell me that they matched the new flywheel to the old one, and then they bolted up the pressure plate to the flywheel, and zero balanced the assembly out. Now, I'm not sure if this is right so I've been looking into things a little deeper. He told me that the flywheel can only go on one way, and that theres not 6 possible ways to bolt it up. Measuring the bolt holes, they all are equal distances apart. Theres like an alignment hole but I don't believe theres an alignment pin on the cam? If this was the case, it wouldnt have been a big deal as to markinf where the flywbeel came off of right? Then he said if it could be bolted up in 6 different positions, it wouldnt matter because the assembly is zeroed out. I was under the impression that it did matter. I really need to speak to someone who knows these motors well. I dont want to reinstall everything and have it be wrong. Thanks.
Very cool. That's what you should have done. However, with what you ended up having the machine shop do, it won't make any difference now. They zero balanced your new assembly.
Now, I took the old flywheel and the new flywheel to a machine shop to get match balanced.
Answered in other threads. It's the whole ASSEMBLY that should be matched balanced, not just the flywheel.
Now, I wasn't sure what they needed so I brought them everything (Old and new pressure plate, clutch disk, and flywheel).
Answered in other threads. They should have put the flywheel and pressure plate together and matched that ASSEMBLY.
They tell me that they matched the new flywheel to the old one, and then they bolted up the pressure plate to the flywheel, and zero balanced the assembly out.
I hope you didn't pay extra to have your flywheels matched and THEN have the whole assembly zeroed. If they were just going to zero the whole assembly there is ABSOLUTELY NO REASON to match or even zero the flywheel first. It wouldn't matter a hill of beans what the flywheel was alone if they were going to zero the whole assembly at the end. If the machine shop couldn't figure that out, I have no clue what to say about them. If they DID know, and just did it because you asked them to match something but didn't know what to do, and they DID THAT and CHARGED you for it.... Then they got one over on you.
Now, I'm not sure if this is right so I've been looking into things a little deeper.
All answered previously.
He told me that the flywheel can only go on one way, and that theres not 6 possible ways to bolt it up.
Well, since you took it off yourself, and looked at the flange and bolt pattern, and saw that the 6 bolt holes are equally spaced and there is NO pin, or dowel, offset hole pattern or any other feature to make it PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE to mount the flywheel more than one way, I hope you realize they are incorrect in saying this. Yes, there is a 7th hole, intended as an alignment hole that matches up to a 7th hole in the crankshaft. In a perfect world, they would always be mounted aligned from the factory. In reality, sometimes they are not aligned. There is only so much balance correction available from the balance weights and available holes, so sometimes they rotate the clutch assembly to have a different starting point. Yeah, I know, who's gonna believe this? Doesn't really matter does it? This is why the FSM tells you to mark the orientation before you take it apart. But you did that, so that's good!
Measuring the bolt holes, they all are equal distances apart. Theres like an alignment hole but I don't believe theres an alignment pin on the cam?
You are correct with all this. Previously answered too. Why are you still unsure? You saw it with your own eyes, right? There is NO alignment pin on the crankshaft ( I assume you mean crankshaft and not cam. If you saw the cam during this clutch removal, you did something wrong.)
If this was the case, it wouldnt have been a big deal as to markinf where the flywbeel came off of right?
correct
Then he said if it could be bolted up in 6 different positions, it wouldnt matter because the assembly is zeroed out.
this would be true if the assemblies were always zero balanced, but they aren't, so it's not. Previously answered.
I was under the impression that it did matter.
It does.
I really need to speak to someone who knows these motors well.
It's not an "engine" balance problem, it is a system dynamics and NVH problem with manual transmission corvettes.
I don't want to reinstall everything and have it be wrong.
Now you have a zero balanced assembly. Just install it and see what happens. There's a good chance it will be fine and smooth. There's also a chance you could feel vibrations. There's no way to know the odds. IF you do feel vibrations, it will only be a NVH related vibration. The engines are internally balanced and the build tolerances are good enough for reliable engine operation. The hot balance was done to better balance the overall engine assemblies in manual transmission vettes. It was not done on automatic vettes, or any F-bodies. Different vibration transfer paths.
Thanks.
You're welcome!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s7-clutch.html
An attempt at nice answers are above in BLUE
You don't have to take my word for it. If you really want to know about any of this, you can research it yourself, contact the GM engineers that worked on the C5 and C6 platforms, personnel that actually performed and still perform the hot balance at GM, the past lead NVH engineer at Milford proving grounds, and past and current corvette powertrain Engineering supervisors. That's who I talked with at length during my research. I don't know who would know "these engines" and this issue any better.
I sincerely hope your situation turns out well. It is such a pain to chase down vibrations. Where you are at right now, I would just install it as is and see what happens. Cross you fingers and hope for the best. There's a good chance it will be fine or at least something you can live with. I just hate that you probably got charged for a completely useless procedure at the machine shop.
OK, so what you are saying now, in a nutshell, is that you now have a FW/PP combo that matches the balance of you original FW alone. Does that make sense to you? Your new combo now matches what you original flywheel did alone by itself. If your original pressure plate was zero by ITSELF, this is then a perfect situation. However, I am sure, from what you said and what they did, that they DID NOT put the original pressure plate on the machine and see what state of balance it had alone. Just to give you some perspective, the pressure plates were delivered with a balance tolerance 3 times larger than the flywheels, so chances are it is not zero by itself to the degree "required" from the hot balance.
Do you have a good relationship with this shop? Are they close enough to you that it's not a pain to get to them? Would they be willing to see what the balance of the original pressure plate is by ITSELF. They haven't touched that so it will be whatever it was from the beginning. If you do that and it is already pretty close to zero then you are good. If they are really nice, maybe they would even bolt up the original flywheel and pressure plate together and see what that balance is. That's what I advocated from the beginning. THAT'S what needs to be matched. It is encouraging that you said they bolted up the new assembly together and checked balance. That means they KNOW how to do that! You'd be surprised how may shops won't even do that. So this is all great. If you are willing to go one more time, have them check the balance of the original FW/PP assembly against the balance of the new FW/PP assembly. The new assembly currently matches the balance of just your original FW.
If they want to know WHY you are asking about this, explain it this way:
When GM does this final fine tune balancing, they mount BOTH the flywheel and the pressure plate to the engine. The engine is mounted in a balancing stand machine, outfitted with several accelerometers. They then run the engine on natural gas. YES, NATURAL GAS. How about that??!! The machine reads any imbalances and tells the operator where to install balance weights, and how many, in either the flywheel, the front damper, or both. They do this until the final total balance is within 0.5 oz-in. The engine has its own slight imbalances, the flywheel has its own slight imbalances (due to tolerances), and the pressure plate has its own slight imbalances (due to tolerances). Put them all together, you get stackups. During the balance process, when they install any weights in the flywheel, they are accounting for total imbalances from ALL the components. Not just the flywheel alone. That's why you don't just match the flywheel. You end up with a unique FW/PP combo that now goes with you own unique engine to create an entire assembly that is below that final balance tolerance.
Or, as stated before, you could install it as you currently have it. There is a good chance it will be fine. IF you have vibrations afterwards, at least you still have your stock stuff to go measure their total assembly balance, if it comes to that.
Did you or the shop look to see if you had weights in your original flywheel? Did they tell you or give you a readout of how much it was "off" from zero?
Also as previously stated, now several times, GOOD LUCK to you Sir!!

I mean that. I wouldn't take the time to write all this if I didn't care.
here is a cool article, build for LS9 engine. Same final balance procedure.
https://jalopnik.com/5371569/how-we-...-corvette-zr1/
Check out the build steps, and near the end is this :
"Since it was a shutdown week, we didn't proceed to the next step, but normally the engine would go to the balancing chamber. In the balancing chamber, the engine is hooked up to an isolation fixture which freely allows multi-axis vibration. It's then hooked up to a special ECM and a natual gas fuel source and fired. That's right, a Corvette ZR1 motors first breaths come from a clean fuel. During the engine's operation, sensors detect vibrations and calculate where to add weights on either the flywheel or the crankshaft damper to bring the engine into balance. The weights are installed and the process is repeated until it passes the test. The final step in the process is a second, intense inspection, from the assumed position of the customer at the Bowling Green Corvette factory. After it's gone over with a fine toothed comb it's off to storage awaiting the truck to Kentucky."
another cool video, build form the factory. Mentions the post build balance process just after time stamp 8:52. Notice how they say going in to cars with manual transmissions.
Last edited by thbwlZ; Aug 26, 2017 at 08:39 AM.
There's no sense worrying about what you can't control. You have what you have. Just install it as is and see how it goes. Chances are it will all be fine. If it is not, there are fairly painless ways to fix it, and maybe even without taking it all apart again. That would be nice. I can't stress this part enough. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO NOT throw your original flywheel and pressure plate away! They will be your biggest aid in fixing it IF you have a vibration problem.
I'll ask again, did you or the shop look to see if you had any weights in your stock flywheel? Were there any? How many?



