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Unfortunately my first post on my new YouTube channel has to be this. (link at bottom)
Never noticed this noise until I got on the highway with the car. I don't feel any strange vibrations or anything. It goes away under heavy acceleration and very low speeds.
I already have a sticky clutch pedal once in a while so this winter. I plan to yank the entire driveline amd do Clutch, Slave and Master.
Anyone have any idea what this sound could be? It sounds like it's located around the shifter but it's so hard to tell.
Sounds like a ring and pinion whine. If so, it will likely be heard under power but disappear when the throttle is lifted. Mine started that on a track day a year and a half ago, but not as loud. Draining the rear drive, there was some very fine metal flakes in the lube.
While the car is in the air, try turning one rear wheel with it in gear. That may give you some idea of clutch condition in the differential also. An OEM differential system in good condition should take around 100 foot pounds to turn one rear wheel. If one or both bellville springs have broken, 10 foot pounds or so.
I am thinking that the torque tube bearings would make more of a rumbling sound, the couplers a rubbing sound. The frequency I heard on the U tube is about right for ring and pinion teeth-
But take a close look when you have it apart.
Doing a rear drive fluid drain and sending a sample to an oil analysis lab should be conclusive. You can do that well ahead of the time you intend to do the driveline work.
In the case of my rear drive, the first fluid drain did not look too bad. A couple of months later, it looked pretty bad.
If the differential is worn or the Bellville spring(s) broken, you are into the rear drive to fix that anyway.
Briefly thought about throwing a stock piece I was offered yesterday for a real good deal in there but decided after consulting with a few that I am going to throw some Lucas and 75w90 Synergyn gear oil in the rear and drive it until the end of the season (unless it gets worse) and then send the diff out this winter for a full rebuild and 3.90 gears.
I was planning to have the entire driveline out of the car this winter to do Clutch, Master, Slave, rear seal on the engine and a few other things, so why not just do it then rather than miss driving time. If the chunks were bigger, I would be more concerned but I have raced on worse so I am not too concerned, especially since I really only plan to cruise the car and not compete with it until next season.
Filled it up with Synergyn and Lucas last night and took it for a quick ride. Pretty much dead silent now. Wish they made something like that for women sometimes lol
Let me tell you, this BluePoint fluid evacuator works amazing for this...
Yes, the fluid evacuators are quite handy.
But just curious why you wouldn't just pull the drain plug????
Then you'd get alot more fluid out and possibly more junk out
Yes, the fluid evacuators are quite handy.
But just curious why you wouldn't just pull the drain plug????
Then you'd get alot more fluid out and possibly more junk out
Briefly thought about throwing a stock piece I was offered yesterday for a real good deal in there but decided after consulting with a few that I am going to throw some Lucas and 75w90 Synergyn gear oil in the rear and drive it until the end of the season (unless it gets worse) and then send the diff out this winter for a full rebuild and 3.90 gears.
I was planning to have the entire driveline out of the car this winter to do Clutch, Master, Slave, rear seal on the engine and a few other things, so why not just do it then rather than miss driving time. If the chunks were bigger, I would be more concerned but I have raced on worse so I am not too concerned, especially since I really only plan to cruise the car and not compete with it until next season.
looks about like mine when I pulled it apart. a piece of one of the belleville washers broke off inside the diff and got churned up between the gears. ended up rebuilding it with 3.73 motive gears and got all new bearings while I was at it.