Balancer install question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
Balancer install question
Earlier I finished up replacing the front seal & crankshaft balancer on my 04. Still waiting on one more pulley to come in so I can do a test fire. I used a crank pulley install tool to push the balancer the majority of the way on to the crank snout. The Haynes manual says to put the old crank bolt back in after using the install tool & torque it to 240ft lbs. I know I had my torque wrench set correctly, but I ran out of threads before achieving that spec. I then removed that bolt & replaced it with an ARP with the included washer & thread locker. I torqued that bolt to 37ft lbs successfully as the manual said. Will everything be fine? I measured the distance from the crank snout to pulley before I put the ARP bolt in & the measurement was within spec of the manual. First time doing this job. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
-Matt
Thanks in advance,
-Matt
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 3, 2017 at 04:32 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 638
Likes: 70
You probably ran out of threads because they ain't there anymore. Probably flattened. I torqued my arp bolt to 225. Try to get there but if it all the sudden feels easy before reaching torque, you probably damaged the threads in the crank.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
..idk how that could've happened. There was no point where the threads felt easy after tightening. I just got to a point where it felt like it was maxed, like tightening any other bolt. The bolts/ threads never felt damaged/rung off/flattened. I know what a bolt feels like when you ring off the threads, gets extremely loose, I don't believe it happened. It's probably fine & im just over thinking it, I'll know when I get the last new pulley & test fire it.
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 3, 2017 at 07:18 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Earlier I finished up replacing the front seal & crankshaft balancer on my 04. Still waiting on one more pulley to come in so I can do a test fire. I used a crank pulley install tool to push the balancer the majority of the way on to the crank snout. The Haynes manual says to put the old crank bolt back in after using the install tool & torque it to 240ft lbs. I know I had my torque wrench set correctly, but I ran out of threads before achieving that spec. I then removed that bolt & replaced it with an ARP with the included washer & thread locker. I torqued that bolt to 37ft lbs successfully as the manual said. Will everything be fine? I measured the distance from the crank snout to pulley before I put the ARP bolt in & the measurement was within spec of the manual. First time doing this job. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
-Matt
Thanks in advance,
-Matt
Is this a stock pulley from GM or an aftermarket?
What specifically did you use to push the new pulley hub onto the crank snout?
When using the ARP bolt, you use the GM procedure up until the point that you torque and remove the original bolt as you did. The ARP bolt is installed with their lubricant and tightened to a high torque value according to their instructions. The 37 lb-ft value is for the GM bolt and this is to seat the bolt prior to the rotation that is used to yield the bolt material. The 37 lb-ft and rotation in degrees is not used with the ARP bolt. Note that the ARP bolt is lubricated on the threads but also under the bolt head and washer. ARP doesn't recommend loctite.
If you tightened the ARP bolt only to 37 lb-ft, it will come out.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
It's the Powerbond PB1117N balancer. I used the Lisle Installer tool 53760. It worked very well & like I said I was able to get the snout to pulley measurement within spec & line my markings back up. 37 ft lbs was all I could get on the ARP.. It won't go anymore. I might could get a couple more turns with a long cheater pipe on the end of the breaker bar, but it sure does feel tight. & I only used the lubricant that ARP sent I didn't use a separate loctite. I also used the washer that was in the pack too because the ARP was longer than the stock GM bolt. I didn't put the lubricant on the washer or bolt head of the ARP, I did not know to do so. What torque spec does the ARP need to achieve? Hopefully I won't have any problems
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 4, 2017 at 10:39 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
I know I had my torque wrench set correctly, but I ran out of threads before achieving that spec.
Last edited by pjdbm; Sep 4, 2017 at 10:39 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
Hopefully..when I didn't hear my wrench click to 240 I then reset it down to 200 & still didn't hear a click..should I have put the cheater pipe on it & kept going? It feels so tight that I don't want to force anything & mess something up..
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 4, 2017 at 10:41 AM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every Model vs Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)
Joe Kucinski
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
Like I said It doesn't feel like I ruined any threads, just feels like the bolt is maxed out & can't go anymore. I feel like I didn't achieve 240 on the old bolt because I used the Installer tool to press it on most of the way. From my understanding torquing the old bolt to 240 is just another way to pull the balancer into position/seat it on to the snout far enough. I must've just used the install tool longer than most to get it pressed on & that's why I couldn't hit the 240 on the old bolt because it was already very close to the proper distance off the snout. Could be wrong
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 4, 2017 at 10:58 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
In his vid, he was on his back with his feet up and pulling to get it into torque spec, others use cheater bars to get it in spec.
I am curious of this because I will be doing this in a month or so.
I am curious of this because I will be doing this in a month or so.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
Well guys I just went & threw the torque wrench back on it for the heck of it, tightening it from the top of the engine bay with more leverage & got the ARP to click at 220ft lbs. I don't know what happened yesterday. 
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 4, 2017 at 11:42 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
OK, that's better. At 37 lb-ft it would like spin out.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,294
Likes: 1,579
From: Western NY
By lubricating the threads of the bolt, as well as the washer, etc, is that you achieve an ACTUAL 240 ft/lbs of torque on the bolt. The lube eliminates the friction between those parts, that MAY prevent you from getting to an ACTUAL 240 ft/lbs.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 4, 2017 at 06:33 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
I put mine to 240ft-lbs and used ARP assembly lube instead of Loctite on the threads and the washer surface. A lot of people have used different strategies, but most seem to have worked. Best way to get the leverage for the torque is from that top as you have discovered. Just gotta eat your Wheaties. 
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 345
Likes: 86
From: Goodlettsville Tennessee
I was surprised to read in the instructions ARP wanted the lube put on the threads.
I put the lub under the head of the bolt, and on the washer, but I did put red loctite on the threads. Got the bolt to the 235ft/lb that the instructions said.
I really didn't want that thing coming out since it was such a pain to do.
I put the lub under the head of the bolt, and on the washer, but I did put red loctite on the threads. Got the bolt to the 235ft/lb that the instructions said.
I really didn't want that thing coming out since it was such a pain to do.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 164
Likes: 14
Yes it definitely is a pain of a job to do. Pretty labor intensive, but also rewarding after completion. I put the ARP lube on the threads, under the washer, & under the head of the bolt. Torqued it to 240ft lbs using a cheater pipe on the torque wrench (pipe was part of the handle to my floor jack
). Since then I have got the car all back together, all the belts lined up & it runs smoother than before. I took this opportunity to do a great deal of preventative maintence, maybe even went over board with it. Those new plugs & wires sure made a difference as well. I went from spending a little over $100 on the balancer & arp bolt to totaling over $2k in parts by the end of it...lol but I figure I won't have anymore problems for a very long time with all that I replaced. Not to mention how much $$$ I saved by doing it all myself.
). Since then I have got the car all back together, all the belts lined up & it runs smoother than before. I took this opportunity to do a great deal of preventative maintence, maybe even went over board with it. Those new plugs & wires sure made a difference as well. I went from spending a little over $100 on the balancer & arp bolt to totaling over $2k in parts by the end of it...lol but I figure I won't have anymore problems for a very long time with all that I replaced. Not to mention how much $$$ I saved by doing it all myself.
Last edited by 72Shark_VAL; Sep 11, 2017 at 06:48 PM.