When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I can't really comment on a fair price for the labor. I've seen other forum members post that around $400 plus the cost of parts is the going rate. I just changed mine recently myself. It was pretty straight forward. Hardest part by far was getting the spark plugs out. The only other thing that was a little frustrating was getting the driver's side valve cover back on with the fuel line still connected. I had a good time doing it though and it was a fun project. I did new plugs and wires while I was at it and altogether had about $300 in parts. If you're inclined to, I'd recommend DIY. If you're not into wrenching, I'd have a pro do it.
Edited to add: In addition to the new springs, you'll also want new valve seals and valve cover gaskets. Also, since the plugs can be a PITA, while they're out for the valve spring job you may as well replace them too (unless they are already new ones). Plug wires might be necessary too. The factory wires get brittle over time and may break during removal. I'd recommend buying a set and replacing them too.
Last edited by ZO6comm2679; Oct 8, 2017 at 12:18 AM.
I can't really comment on a fair price for the labor. I've seen other forum members post that around $400 plus the cost of parts is the going rate. I just changed mine recently myself. It was pretty straight forward. Hardest part by far was getting the spark plugs out. The only other thing that was a little frustrating was getting the driver's side valve cover back on with the fuel line still connected. I had a good time doing it though and it was a fun project. I did new plugs and wires while I was at it and altogether had about $300 in parts. If you're inclined to, I'd recommend DIY. If you're not into wrenching, I'd have a pro do it.
Edited to add: In addition to the new springs, you'll also want new valve seals and valve cover gaskets. Also, since the plugs can be a PITA, while they're out for the valve spring job you may as well replace them too (unless they are already new ones). Plug wires might be necessary too. The factory wires get brittle over time and may break during removal. I'd recommend buying a set and replacing them too.
I paid $400 plus parts. That included changing springs, spark plugs and wires, valve seals and valve covers.
When my 99TA needed valve springs, locks retainers, valve seals the labor was $400 and $227 for the BTR platnium Spring kit. Might as well do plugs and wires while in doing springs.
One thing i noticed that no one mentioned. You'll need an air fitting adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and the other end has a fitting for compressed air. By pressurizing the cylinder, the air hold the valve up in place while you remove and replace the spring.
One thing i noticed that no one mentioned. You'll need an air fitting adapter that screws into the spark plug hole and the other end has a fitting for compressed air. By pressurizing the cylinder, the air hold the valve up in place while you remove and replace the spring.
However, I think that most guys don't have an air compressor, and choose to hold the valves in place, by stuffing a piece of rope in the cylinder. Personally, I don't find that all that reliable, but it's easy for me to say, since I have a "big azzed" air compressor....
What are your thoughts Awesome C5? Think you'll DIY or take it to a shop?
I like to wrench as much as possible, but don't have some of the needed tools. I am just curious what labor cost owners have seen to replace the springs. Fortunately, my plugs and wires were just replaced before I bought the car.
I like to wrench as much as possible, but don't have some of the needed tools. I am just curious what labor cost owners have seen to replace the springs. Fortunately, my plugs and wires were just replaced before I bought the car.
That's good. The wires will probably come off easier that way then. As far as the tools go...do you have an air compressor? When I did mine I used my little $99 Bostich pancake air compressor from Menards. It did the job well. The only specialty tools you'll need are a valve spring compressor and the above mentioned valve holder (air hose that connects to the spark plug hole).
Heres the valve spring compressor I used (its worth it):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-90306
Here's the valve holder I used (worked great)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-19700
If you get those and already have a ratchet set with a few different sized extensions, a torque wrench, a swivel adapter, some long needle nose pliers and one of those little extendable magnet pen things, you should be set.
I read your intro post and if I recall correctly you are a few hundred miles away from me. If you were closer I'd be glad to bring my tools over and give you a hand.
Last edited by ZO6comm2679; Oct 11, 2017 at 10:44 AM.
That's good. The wires will probably come off easier that way then. As far as the tools go...do you have an air compressor? When I did mine I used my little $99 Bostich pancake air compressor from Menards. It did the job well. The only specialty tools you'll need are a valve spring compressor and the above mentioned valve holder (air hose that connects to the spark plug hole).
If you get those and already have a ratchet set with a few different sized extensions, a torque wrench, a swivel adapter, some long needle nose pliers and one of those little extendable magnet pen things, you should be set.
I read your intro post and if I recall correctly you are a few hundred miles away from me. If you were closer I'd be glad to bring my tools over and give you a hand.
I appreciate all the details and parts list! I am in the Chicago suburbs, not sure where you are located, but that would be a fun weekend project.
With the LS1, you don't need a compressor. Set the piston at TDC and the valves will only drop 1/8". This is a very easy motor to swap springs and seals on and it's kind of a fun job. Of course no tools or place to work puts a wrinkle on it.
However, I think that most guys don't have an air compressor, and choose to hold the valves in place, by stuffing a piece of rope in the cylinder. Personally, I don't find that all that reliable, but it's easy for me to say, since I have a "big azzed" air compressor....
So what pressure do you use? 30 psi? I don't want to spin the engine with to much air.