When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My newly acquired 1998 Vette has non-working DIC buttons which makes for some difficulties, like not being able to program a new key fob and having the tire system warning pop up constantly.
I've done a bit of reading on the matter and I've tried some of the basic troubleshooting steps. I've tried pressing the buttons on the DIC numerous times to try and un-jam them (some have said that could be the issue) but no luck with that.
Would replacing the DIC module fix the issue? I see a good used condition DIC module on eBay for like $80 that I could try. Or is the issue in the cluster itself? I've heard of that being the cause too.
I would replace the DIC switch. I've replaced mine before - purchased from the same place you mentioned (fparts) . It's not hard to do - but it is time consuming.
I would replace the DIC switch. I've replaced mine before - purchased from the same place you mentioned (fparts) . It's not hard to do - but it is time consuming.
Good to hear you've had a good experience with that! That fixed your issue? I have no problem taking apart a cluster, I've done that with both my Mustang and my BMWs.
Good to hear you've had a good experience with that! That fixed your issue? I have no problem taking apart a cluster, I've done that with both my Mustang and my BMWs.
My problem was bulbs flickering in the DIC. Replaced the bulbs and still had the same issue. Replaced the DIC switch itself with one from fparts, which was listed as used but actually looked new when I got it. I could tell that the metal contacts on the old switch were loose after I took it out. Anyway, yep - problem solved.
My problem was bulbs flickering in the DIC. Replaced the bulbs and still had the same issue. Replaced the DIC switch itself with one from fparts, which was listed as used but actually looked new when I got it. I could tell that the metal contacts on the old switch were loose after I took it out. Anyway, yep - problem solved.
Gotcha. My issue is that the buttons straight up don't work. Sounds like the panel could be acting up since it's probably original from 1998. At only $80 for the DIC switch set, it's worth a shot. Worst comes to worst I can just return it or resell it if I don't need it.
I don't think my cluster itself is the problem, since everything still works properly on it and I can still see the mileage along with other messages that come up, like for the active handling and cruise control.
More than likely it is an issue with the IPC itself. I have just replaced 2 IPCs for friends that had issues with the DIC buttons. I had tore the IPCs apart looking for crap on the contacts causing a short but did not find anything. Took a bit of watching the parts for sale on the forum and Craigslist to find an IPC but got them at reasonable prices.
If you have access to a Tech II use it to read the IPC error codes. This will tell you which button is bad and possibly help narrow down the issue. You can clear the code in the IPC with the Tech II after disconnecting the DIC buttons. If the code still remains as a C H then the IPC is bad.
More than likely it is an issue with the IPC itself. I have just replaced 2 IPCs for friends that had issues with the DIC buttons. I had tore the IPCs apart looking for crap on the contacts causing a short but did not find anything. Took a bit of watching the parts for sale on the forum and Craigslist to find an IPC but got them at reasonable prices.
If you have access to a Tech II use it to read the IPC error codes. This will tell you which button is bad and possibly help narrow down the issue. You can clear the code in the IPC with the Tech II after disconnecting the DIC buttons. If the code still remains as a C H then the IPC is bad.
Gary
I don't have access to a tech II, unfortunately. Though maybe I could find a local Corvette shop that could take a look at my car to diagnose whether it's a DIC issue or an IPC issue.
Did you ever fix your issue? I have the same problem, my reset button, trip, options don't work others do. Everything on the dash still works but it just displays service vehicle soon, unless the door is open, or the low fuel light comes on.
Lots of threads with similar results. And my car is similar as well. Changing the DIC button set is a popular first step, but does not fix it. A replacement IPC is the general answer. I’m sure there is a way to repair it, but have not found any clue how to do so.
You will need to replace the IPC. the chip that controls the DIC goes bad, sometimes as a result of bad buttons and is contained in the IPC
changing only the buttons will not correct it
More than likely it is an issue with the IPC itself. I have just replaced 2 IPCs for friends that had issues with the DIC buttons. I had tore the IPCs apart looking for crap on the contacts causing a short but did not find anything. Took a bit of watching the parts for sale on the forum and Craigslist to find an IPC but got them at reasonable prices.
If you have access to a Tech II use it to read the IPC error codes. This will tell you which button is bad and possibly help narrow down the issue. You can clear the code in the IPC with the Tech II after disconnecting the DIC buttons. If the code still remains as a C H then the IPC is bad.
Gary
Hey Gary. I’ve literally spent years trying to solve my TIC and IPC issue on my 98 C5. All my gauges work on my cluster but endless info blinks in my digital odometer window like the ticker tape on Wall Street. It also disabled my key fob,I joined this forum today for one last Hail Mary of Hope. I ran across your thread. That you have replaced two of them. Man, I would like to have a conversation with you. Is that possible? Love my car but going crazy. agespfx@gmail.com
or text if you would like. 8184026210.
If you have already tried two IPCs, it might be time to evaluate the ignition switch -- provides the power to the IPC, and is known to have contact issues over time -- and also grounds, possibly the ground on the inside of the cabin at the bottom of the driver's A pillar, G201.
This thread, https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...locations.html
has some great ground information, including that G201 provides grounding for:
Data link connector (dlc)
Air temperature actuator
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Traction/suspension control switch
Driver door module (ddm)
Door latch, driver
Auxiliary power outlet
Windshield wiper motor
Steering column lock
Footwell courtesy lamp, left
Instrument panel cluster (ipc)
Hazard switch
Telescopic actuator switch
Incomplete update: I, like some other, continue to have both the Driver's Information Center issue and some other IPC issues, including an erroneously low voltage reading for several minutes upon engine start. I pulled the ignition switch and found two contacts that visually appeared quite contaminated. Cleaned and polished all switch contacts, then tested it good before reinstalling. No improvement, dang it.
I have a spare IPC, but since it's a used part there's no guarantee that it is necessarily better than the one in the car. None the less, will try it in the next few days since I have the bezel and knee panel out already, and it will be quicker than trying to get to the G201 (I think) ground. If the IPC doesn't fix, or at least change, my issues, I'll shotgun the ground and the driver's door connectors, both of which have been reported to cause issues.
I'll also see what the maintenance manual says about IPC troubleshooting. What a concept, eh?
Since the voltmeter gets it signal from Ignition 1 Voltage I would connect one lead of your DMM to battery positive and the other to either test point on tip of fuse 19 (IPC) and when you start the car see what the voltage drop is from the battery to the fuse…G104 is the IPC ground which is below the battery tray but it first goes into Splice Pack 208…208 is on right side of IP but does not show a picture…I’d check with ground at the IPC (Terminal B13)…you can use a test light connected to B+ but I would load it with an amp or two…NO RESISTANCE CHECKING OF GROUNDS !!…if you have a decent scan tool you can look at that Ignition 1 data PID…I see no troubleshooting in Service Information related to the IP…only if you have a specific DTC.
OK, how do you check the ground on a particular circuit ??…with an ohm meter ??
Yes/no. I've done both, obviously in error. For the ignition switch I just put back in I tested voltage drop across the contacts at approximately 2 amps current with a power supply, so feeling O.K. on that one. Used a recalled LED headlamp for load (it was handy) but will meander out for a dual filament socket and appropriate lamps for further testing.
So you’ve done a voltage drop check across the ignition switch ??…like I mentioned one lead of your DMM on battery positive and the other lead on either test point on fuse 19…now if you can have someone start the car and see what the voltmeter reads…if you see 5 volts that means you have 12.5 volts out of the battery and 7.5 volts going to the fuse..if you see 7.5 volts on the voltmeter than you have a drop across the ignition switch or somewhere else in the circuit…you can just check the ground with that LED bulb…one wire of the bulb to 12 volt power and the other to the ground connector terminal at the IPC connector… the bulb should be bright if the ground is good…as far as checking a ground with an ohm meter half of the copper strands of the wire can be missing and you will still show good resistance …the ground has to carry the current of that circuit back to the battery…if the IPC draws 2 amps that 2 amps must be able to get back to the battery…many DIY’er have trouble understanding this concept…may be best to take your car to an auto electric shop in your area.
DIC Buttons Not Working
. It's not hard to do - but it is time consuming.
