Harmonic balancer
12-04-2017, 12:46 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Do NOT put the lube on the THREADS !! Just under the head so
it doesn't affect the torque value as it meshes with the balancer.
Blue loctite on the thread. ARP lube or similar on the underhead of
bolt flange.. Proper installation
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12-04-2017, 04:39 PM
#22
Drifting
I called the tech support today to clarify this, spoke with Martin
He says to install this Crank Bolt as per specs on the sheet
I told him maybe he or one of his tech support staff should visit this site to debate this issue. his reply was that " you are going to listen to people on car forums about how to prepare & install OUR bolts?"
He says to install this Crank Bolt as per specs on the sheet
I told him maybe he or one of his tech support staff should visit this site to debate this issue. his reply was that " you are going to listen to people on car forums about how to prepare & install OUR bolts?"
Last edited by pjdbm; 12-04-2017 at 04:40 PM.
12-06-2017, 08:30 AM
#23
Team Owner
What you're suggesting, is to NOT follow the instructions from ARP, which you happened to post, and instead apply a fairly PERMANENT thread locking compound???
12-06-2017, 10:10 AM
#24
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I called the tech support today to clarify this, spoke with Martin
He says to install this Crank Bolt as per specs on the sheet
I told him maybe he or one of his tech support staff should visit this site to debate this issue. his reply was that " you are going to listen to people on car forums about how to prepare & install OUR bolts?"
He says to install this Crank Bolt as per specs on the sheet
I told him maybe he or one of his tech support staff should visit this site to debate this issue. his reply was that " you are going to listen to people on car forums about how to prepare & install OUR bolts?"
Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; 12-06-2017 at 10:12 AM.
12-06-2017, 12:16 PM
#25
Team Owner
FWIW, the lube is there to ensure that there's no additional friction between the parts, preventing the proper torque value from being achieved.
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pjdbm (12-06-2017)
12-06-2017, 12:56 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
Remember if you use any lubricant on the threads of a bolt you will end up with different amount of holding power (bolt stretch) as a result. If ARP says to use the material on the end of the bolt and not the thread, then it will have a higher clamping force than lubricating the thread will have. More than likely that is the reason the bolt came loose.
12-06-2017, 05:58 PM
#30
Team Owner
Remember if you use any lubricant on the threads of a bolt you will end up with different amount of holding power (bolt stretch) as a result. If ARP says to use the material on the end of the bolt and not the thread, then it will have a higher clamping force than lubricating the thread will have. More than likely that is the reason the bolt came loose.
Did you read what ARP's instructions stated, as posted by the two previous posters? It clearly states to lubricate both the underside of the bolt, and the faces of the washer, AS WELL AS the threads. I have a strong suspicion that ARP knows what they're talking about..........
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SG Lou (12-11-2017)
12-10-2017, 05:11 PM
#31
I cleaned the bolt and the crank with brake parts cleaner, keyed the balancer and used locktite 262 and it hasn't moved since
Oh, thanks for the video, yours is the one I used for instructions the 1st time
Last edited by Millenium Z06; 12-10-2017 at 05:17 PM.
12-10-2017, 05:14 PM
#32
I quoted someone else whom posted the instructions. And yes, 262 (or blue 242 if you prefer) on the threads. I found 2 ARP instructions since mine came off, one said to use the lube, the other said red 262. I did the red 262 after the 1st instructions failed. This isnt a job you want to do too many times and I've done it 3 times now
12-10-2017, 05:16 PM
#33
Did you read what ARP's instructions stated, as posted by the two previous posters? It clearly states to lubricate both the underside of the bolt, and the faces of the washer, AS WELL AS the threads. I have a strong suspicion that ARP knows what they're talking about..........
12-11-2017, 07:19 AM
#34
Team Owner
I followed their instructions (lube bolt head and threads) 2 years ago, and so far, my bolt hasn't backed out. Personally, and this is just my opinion, I don't see how a bolt that's properly torqued to 240 ft/lbs is going to "back out". MILLIONS of previous generations of small block Chevrolet engines have had a single bolt, torqued to 60 ft/lbs, holding their balancers in place.....
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SG Lou (12-11-2017)
12-11-2017, 12:55 PM
#35
I followed their instructions (lube bolt head and threads) 2 years ago, and so far, my bolt hasn't backed out. Personally, and this is just my opinion, I don't see how a bolt that's properly torqued to 240 ft/lbs is going to "back out". MILLIONS of previous generations of small block Chevrolet engines have had a single bolt, torqued to 60 ft/lbs, holding their balancers in place.....
I initially torqued it down to 245 then ARP said go 260. This was with an ATI balancer. My guess is that the friction wasn't enough to keep the balancer from moving and it spun, as it spun it backed the bolt out.
After I keyed the balancer and locktited the bolt, no more problems. Given that its not likley ill need to pull it apart again, im not concerned about using locktite and if I need to, I have a torch and a long breaker bar and a 650lbs impact gun
12-11-2017, 05:52 PM
#38
I have a HB replacement in my near future...only thing I dread is being able to get that 240 lb/ft of torque while lying on my back with the car only 2 feet off the ground, not to mention finding a torque wrench that can achieve that torque ! 
12-11-2017, 06:14 PM
#39
Drifting
You can do the loaner program at Autozone but there torque wrench has a thick handle where you can’t add a cheater pipe. I got to 240 with my legs & feet! From the bottom lying on my side
12-11-2017, 11:38 PM
#40
Drifting
If you are going to the trouble of putting on a new Harmonic Balancer then you should take the extra step of pinning the crank. While the stock balancer may still have the problem of separating you will not have any problem if the crank bolt will work its way loose. For those of us who autocross in the stock class, we have to use the factory HB and bolt, when installing a new OEM bolt you end up with more than 240 ft-lb of torque. My brother-in-law is a truck mechanic and we were using all of his 360 ft-lb torque wrench to get those last 5-6 degrees.