Harmonic balancer
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Get the longest torque wrench you can find, I torqued it from the top passenger side with the car in 6th.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,321
Likes: 1,586
From: Western NY
I bought a Husky torque wrench at Home Depot, for this job, and haven't used it since. Yeah, I probably could have "borrowed" a wrench from Advance Auto Parts (where I worked part time, at the time I did this job), or Autozone, but seeing the "amateurs" that borrowed tools from the store, and the way they treat them, I figured that one of those wrenches wouldn't have been anywhere near calibrated correctly, so I bought a new one.
I spent $400 to buy an ATI balancer. There's NO WAY that a torch is getting anywhere near it.........
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Lot of bad information in this thread. The lubricant is used on the threads and the underside of the bolt head to ensure the proper preload in the bolt (some call it stretch, but it is really a joint preload). You can achieve the correct torque value no matter what you use, even peanut butter. However, it doesn't provide the proper preload.
Torque is one of the most inaccurate methods of preloading a bolted joint. The biggest factor of these inaccuracies is the friction. ARP uses their own lubricant and method of application to ensure the friction is controlled in such a manner to achieve the correct bolt preload.
If the bolt is backing out, there are other issues with the joint. Not sure how many (and I would wager it is few if any) determine the interference fit prior to installation of the balancer hub. ARP is very specific on the interference fit and it falls within a range of 10,000's of an inch. Most won't have tools to properly measure. Point is, if the bolt backs out the interference fit is more likely the cause and not the bolt. If you spun the prior balancer hub, the interference fit may have been affected. The bolt is likely the symptom and not the cause.
Torque is one of the most inaccurate methods of preloading a bolted joint. The biggest factor of these inaccuracies is the friction. ARP uses their own lubricant and method of application to ensure the friction is controlled in such a manner to achieve the correct bolt preload.
If the bolt is backing out, there are other issues with the joint. Not sure how many (and I would wager it is few if any) determine the interference fit prior to installation of the balancer hub. ARP is very specific on the interference fit and it falls within a range of 10,000's of an inch. Most won't have tools to properly measure. Point is, if the bolt backs out the interference fit is more likely the cause and not the bolt. If you spun the prior balancer hub, the interference fit may have been affected. The bolt is likely the symptom and not the cause.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
I have read and saw vids on heating the HB with a torch, I would never do this.
Heating up a HB that has a rubber bond between two metals is something I would never do.
Also, sliding that hot HB into the front seal and possibly warping the seal is a second reason not to heat up the damper prior to install.
I purchased the correct tool to remove and install this damper and the job came out perfect.
Heating up a HB that has a rubber bond between two metals is something I would never do.
Also, sliding that hot HB into the front seal and possibly warping the seal is a second reason not to heat up the damper prior to install.
I purchased the correct tool to remove and install this damper and the job came out perfect.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 345
Likes: 86
From: Goodlettsville Tennessee
I have read and saw vids on heating the HB with a torch, I would never do this.
Heating up a HB that has a rubber bond between two metals is something I would never do.
Also, sliding that hot HB into the front seal and possibly warping the seal is a second reason not to heat up the damper prior to install.
I purchased the correct tool to remove and install this damper and the job came out perfect.
Heating up a HB that has a rubber bond between two metals is something I would never do.
Also, sliding that hot HB into the front seal and possibly warping the seal is a second reason not to heat up the damper prior to install.
I purchased the correct tool to remove and install this damper and the job came out perfect.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,363
Likes: 429
From: Birmingham Al
If one can follow instructions . I did a cam install on my 04 Z ported heads ( Myself) lots new parts ,even remover and replaced the old pulley .. The pulley was a bitch for sure but a 6' 3/4 pull handle an old 12" pipe wrench and 4 friends we got it off.. Made a puller got that off you tube as well .. All this info is on YouTube and in this Forum . Just saying read and follow the instructions , 30,000 miles 500+ Hp later NO problem .. APR sends the lube and the how to install read it do it .. Some have made this sound Way tooo hard to do ( TORCH ) what . Just saying all this info is out there and the right info not some old I think you should do this or that . Just look it up and pay attrition and if go get a torch you did not pay attention . These Ls-motors are not the old 283s from back n the day ,that train left the station . Its a new day ,people sound like they are creating problem that are very unnecessary .. These LS-motors are very easy to work on making way hared they needs to be .. If I can do it anybody can .. If going to give some info on the forum make sure you know what in the heck you are talking about ..
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 22,667
Likes: 943
I had my car on "blocks", located underneath the jacking points, and had my car 18-20" off the ground, when I replaced the HB. I couldn't generate the required torque, while underneath the car, so I stood on the drivers side of the car, and pulled the wrench toward me, in order to get to 240 ft/lbs (ARP bolt).
I bought a Husky torque wrench at Home Depot, for this job, and haven't used it since. Yeah, I probably could have "borrowed" a wrench from Advance Auto Parts (where I worked part time, at the time I did this job), or Autozone, but seeing the "amateurs" that borrowed tools from the store, and the way they treat them, I figured that one of those wrenches wouldn't have been anywhere near calibrated correctly, so I bought a new one.
I spent $400 to buy an ATI balancer. There's NO WAY that a torch is getting anywhere near it.........
I bought a Husky torque wrench at Home Depot, for this job, and haven't used it since. Yeah, I probably could have "borrowed" a wrench from Advance Auto Parts (where I worked part time, at the time I did this job), or Autozone, but seeing the "amateurs" that borrowed tools from the store, and the way they treat them, I figured that one of those wrenches wouldn't have been anywhere near calibrated correctly, so I bought a new one.
I spent $400 to buy an ATI balancer. There's NO WAY that a torch is getting anywhere near it.........
ATI's own instructions suggest heating the balancer in an oven prior to install, secondly, IF it needed removal, you'd be heating the bolt head, not the balancer. A propane plumbing torch isnt going to get hot enough to damage the balancer anyway
Moderator
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 22,667
Likes: 943
Yeah, some dont get that, warp a crank seal...OK
Moderator
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 22,667
Likes: 943
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
HOLY CRAP
Moderator
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 22,667
Likes: 943
Racer
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 296
Likes: 33
From: Virginia Beach VA
Lot of bad information in this thread. The lubricant is used on the threads and the underside of the bolt head to ensure the proper preload in the bolt (some call it stretch, but it is really a joint preload). You can achieve the correct torque value no matter what you use, even peanut butter. However, it doesn't provide the proper preload.
Torque is one of the most inaccurate methods of preloading a bolted joint. The biggest factor of these inaccuracies is the friction. ARP uses their own lubricant and method of application to ensure the friction is controlled in such a manner to achieve the correct bolt preload.
If the bolt is backing out, there are other issues with the joint. Not sure how many (and I would wager it is few if any) determine the interference fit prior to installation of the balancer hub. ARP is very specific on the interference fit and it falls within a range of 10,000's of an inch. Most won't have tools to properly measure. Point is, if the bolt backs out the interference fit is more likely the cause and not the bolt. If you spun the prior balancer hub, the interference fit may have been affected. The bolt is likely the symptom and not the cause.
Torque is one of the most inaccurate methods of preloading a bolted joint. The biggest factor of these inaccuracies is the friction. ARP uses their own lubricant and method of application to ensure the friction is controlled in such a manner to achieve the correct bolt preload.
If the bolt is backing out, there are other issues with the joint. Not sure how many (and I would wager it is few if any) determine the interference fit prior to installation of the balancer hub. ARP is very specific on the interference fit and it falls within a range of 10,000's of an inch. Most won't have tools to properly measure. Point is, if the bolt backs out the interference fit is more likely the cause and not the bolt. If you spun the prior balancer hub, the interference fit may have been affected. The bolt is likely the symptom and not the cause.
There's a lot of misunderstanding about bolted joints and what is actually happening.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
We used a torque wrench about the same size. The 1st one we did I stood on the brake with the car in gear. The 2nd we purchased a flywheel holder, much easier. You can get the flywheel holder off Amazon.
Last edited by 93Polo; Dec 18, 2017 at 12:09 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 50
From: Clayton, NC north carolina
ok I have spent THOUSANDS of hours torqueing bolts over the years on things that are WAY MORE CRITICAL than a dampener hub....everything from 35 inchlb worm clamps to 18,000 ftlb "jesus nut" (17* to 20* angle) that we have to use a hydraulic wrench to acheve the torque. Vettnuts is ABSOLUTLY 100% correct. Use the PROPER ARP lubrication to get the PROPER preload on the bolt and it should not back out. if the bolt does back out...... there are three possibliltys. the most common is false/bad torque meaning the user of the torque wrench hit something (a stud or subframe or some other part) and created a false torque. 2. bad /distorted threads meaning cross threaded or rolled threads. and last 3. improper heat treat of either the part or the bolt. At work our torque wrenches, mic's calipers and temp probes get re-calibrated. if you can take your home torqe wrench and get IT calibrated may are off quire a bit. OH! my line of business? I build Jet engines for General Electric...... so yeah.... it has to be CORRECT.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,321
Likes: 1,586
From: Western NY